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Old 02-11-2007, 02:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Apr 2005
Vehicle: 1998 SLK230
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 6,792
FIXED """" Coolant/Washer level lights

These came on on my SLK today so I unplugged the sensor of exp tank and shorted plug out with engine running. No change to lights.
Removed R/H front wheel , removed 2 screws under front floor and pulled up iner guard away from washer bottle.
Started engine, removed plug off washer level sesor... voila... lights out.
Beuty, dont need this sensor so Ill just run a parallel pair of wires into engine bay and use a connector to short out.
Reassembled flap etc.
Started engine ... one light still on... Windscreen washer

MB are clever. Even though both lights come on if a fault you cant trick the circuit. Each sendor has a series / parallel resistor network. (see pic)
Now Ill have to use differne t resistors to trick it or buy anew sendor. Didnt want to break the seal on the top of washer bottle.. bugger. Next weekends job

Bazzle
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File Type: jpg Coolant_washer level sw.jpg (269.6 KB, 167 views)

Last edited by Bazzle : 02-12-2007 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 02-11-2007, 05:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Date registered: Oct 2005
Vehicle: 1999 SLK230
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 314
HI Bazzle,

It's early here and maybe I haven't had enough coffe yet but I can't figure out from your description why the lights went off when you shorted out the washer level sensor and why that light is still on after you ran the parallel wires that you shorted? I'm going to drink a second cup and study the diagram some more.
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Old 02-11-2007, 11:29 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upstate engineer
HI Bazzle,

It's early here and maybe I haven't had enough coffe yet but I can't figure out from your description why the lights went off when you shorted out the washer level sensor and why that light is still on after you ran the parallel wires that you shorted? I'm going to drink a second cup and study the diagram some more.
I thnk they went off 1stly as engine was running when I shorted leads and diagnostic only happens when you 1st start.
Individual light only comes on if leads shorted before starting as diagnostics measures circuit resistance and determines fault from that.

I d say each seder has a different combination of resistors so comp can identify.

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Old 02-12-2007, 07:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Fixed...

Inside the sender is an 82 ohm resistor, it has corroded away due to leakage thru the external top seal.

I didnt know the value so I just rigged up an old rheostat across leads until all fault lights behaved as they should then measured with an ohm meter.

Went to the shop, purchased a few resistors, 82 ohm, and a couple of 10s to trim if needed.

Jury rigged the 82.... perfect.

Hardest part was opening the sensor, the top O ring was stuck in place.

Just put a smear of silicone adhesive around it on replacement and a spray of conformal coating over the new resistor etc before assy.

Works like a new one in. Costs $105 dollars here. Best 1 hour and 12cents Ive spent in a while

Last shot shows where these washer containers normally . I sealed mine up up when I got it

Bazzle
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1010022.JPG (141.6 KB, 144 views)
File Type: jpg P1010024.JPG (108.6 KB, 138 views)
File Type: jpg P1010027.JPG (134.1 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg P1010029.JPG (207.9 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg P1010032.JPG (200.9 KB, 132 views)
File Type: jpg P1010035.JPG (193.4 KB, 129 views)

Last edited by Bazzle : 02-12-2007 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 02-12-2007, 08:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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NIce Job!!
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Old 02-12-2007, 08:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upstate engineer
NIce Job!!

Ta .....

The other unit in parallel is a glass encased reed switch. A cylindrical float with a small toroidal magnet runs up and down the water side of the tube depending on level. When it is near the bottom it atracts the reed and circuit is made telling Comp you need water.

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Old 02-14-2007, 03:19 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Vehicle: Two 1998 SLK230s, 2003 SLK230 SE
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Well done. My coolent level sensor died too and only that light on the dash - after 3 trips to the dealer while they figured out which part they needed (initially told me it was actually the washer level sensor - then ordered the wrong part - then figured that it was actually the coolant level sensor - d'oh!), and $150 or so for a new coolant reservoir it was fixed. They didn't dare charge me labour after all the inconvenience they caused me. They didn't give me the old reservoir though... could have fixed it as a spare. Looks like a common problem.
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Old 02-14-2007, 07:55 AM   #8 (permalink)
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My coolant level light has been on for months. I used a 3/4" round piece of black electrician's tape to cover the light. I like Bazzle's fix much better, but my head exploded when I tried to follow the fix instructions. Bazzle; if you ever visit the Phoenix area, I'll buy you a steak dinner (and a few Fosters) if you'll stop by and fix my wife's SLK.
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Old 02-28-2007, 06:43 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Vehicle: CLK 55 AMG W208
Location: Sussex, UK
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The resistance is 174 ohms on my CLK - had the same problem. Copy of details from manual attached.
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Old 02-28-2007, 11:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickchailey
The resistance is 174 ohms on my CLK - had the same problem. Copy of details from manual attached.
Thanks Dick.

Mine is wired the same way as yours. Not as per the WIS with series parallel

BUT when I used a resistance bridge to work out ohms it came to 82 ohms. Strange.
The Xfire manual is the same as your post too.
http://www.gleamingedge.com/mirrors/...e%20Manual.pdf

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