This is my first post and i would like to say,
I have managed to locate and change my spark plugs, my fuel filter, fix my top, diagnose the problem of my robbed hoursepower due to the MAF and basicaly kept the wheels turning on my slk. Thanks goes out to this post for helping me fix my top im so excited that it works now and a HUGE thanks to bazzle which i have shortly taken to find out is THE MAN!
bazzle wat was the cat number for the micro switch which you purchased from jaycar and also can you use this switch from jay car to replace for all other switches on slk?
Bazzle, you're a saint among men. Thank you for this thread. I've also seen this strange proplem where the Vario Roof stops, usually when its really hot outside, once the trunk lid is open. If I simply hang onto the button long enough the roof eventually opens. Occationally, I'll stop and let the button rest one moment, and then go again.
What I don't understand is this. Is it best to replace these switches with brand new switches once this symptoms starts? Or is there an interim option to remove them and clean them per se, or oil them, WD-40 them, (or shake dried up chicken bones while encanting voodoo magic spells at them). Additional guidance would be greatly appreciated.
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1999 SLK 230, Sport Pkg, Auto, Special Order Obsidian Black Metallic, Oyster leather, First met on August 20, 1999
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Bazzle, you're a saint among men. Thank you for this thread. I've also seen this strange proplem where the Vario Roof stops, usually when its really hot outside, once the trunk lid is open. If I simply hang onto the button long enough the roof eventually opens. Occationally, I'll stop and let the button rest one moment, and then go again.
What I don't understand is this. Is it best to replace these switches with brand new switches once this symptoms starts? Or is there an interim option to remove them and clean them per se, or oil them, WD-40 them, (or shake dried up chicken bones while encanting voodoo magic spells at them). Additional guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Either replace the switches or remove bellows as Bazzle has stated several times somewhere on here. I just bought new ones for about $20 each and the problems went away.
Either replace the switches or remove bellows as Bazzle has stated several times somewhere on here. I just bought new ones for about $20 each and the problems went away.
Avery
Avery
Okay for transparency, I think I found the previous post from Bazzle:
Remove the silicon dust bellows off the switches, 1 in windscreen frame. 2 in front of roof, 3rd one at rear under brush.
...
When you open the panels to view the microswitches you will see the PIN that operates the internals of the switch. This pin has clear silicon dust bellows on it. The bellows can stick and prevent proper movement of the pin , esp when hot. An MB tech note I read says 1st remove bellows to try to fix prob before replacing switches.
By the way, I hope I am not the only uneducated one here but I didn't know what a bellows is. Thankfully in the information age, and wikipedia (the best opinion reference site on the web!) I learned a bellows is a device for delivering pressurized air in a controlled quantity to a controlled location. Isn't that interesting. I wonder if there is synergy with the PSE Pump problem some of us are having with this Bellows in the Vario Roof switches... Bellows - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Thanks for the help. I'll try removing the bellows, and then replacing the switch. I'll start with the switch in the boot (trunk) first, and work my way around.
So how the hell am i suppose to gain access to these switches if the roof wont open? You're telling me to remove the liner, and for that I need to have the roof half way open, that is going to be a problem.
Undo the roof manually. Its explained how in your user manual. If you haven't got a user manual there should be links on this site somewhere to download it.
I really appreciate all the Tech info I've received from this forum. Especially from Bazzle! I had the "Classic" roof only opens half way problem. I tested all the switches and they were all OK. Hydraulic fluid level was OK and none of the cylinders were leaking. I took it to a private Mercedes mechanic and they spent a couple of hours on it and unfortunately couldn't fix it. Fortunately, they didn't charge me for their time. I took it to the dealer and they found a short in the harness right where the top segment connects to the rear window. They replaced the harness which includes the two micro switches at the front of the headliner for $530 USD. I'm glad to have it fixed and also glad it was not a hydraulic problem. I kept the old harness to have the two switches available for possible future problems. If you need an honest mechanic in Phoenix, I think Schulte in Phoenix is a good source. He doesn't just throw parts at the problem.
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