Hard to say whether it's the leather that is anthracite or the console/dash -
A new colour combination - check out the pics on page 13/14 of this thread and see if similar
If the lighter colour (alpaca grey?) is your dash colour, you can send the little panel under your st/wheel for an exact match
It's the same as post #122 from this thread. The only difference is that my seats / door panels are two tone.
Light gray (not beige) - Center of seat / Door panel
Charcoal leather - Sides of seat
Charcoal / Dark Gray - Console, Door Handle, trim/etc
I believe the "Anthracite" is the same as everyone else's. The only difference is that the leather seats are two toned and the door panel has a gray section.
Then you can contact Alan at Viponds (I got a quicker response from the website contact form than e-mailing Alan) and place your order for 200mls which is more than enough for most situations. (We have enough left over for the rest of the car's life I'm sure!) They'll send the paint and all instructions for US$40...takes about 2 weeks for it to arrive in the U.S.
Same product is suitable for leather or vinyl - I don't think Viponds have yet matched the black leather colour (quartz?) but the anthracite for the vinyl is very close and suitable for a scratch
I had some small cracks in the leather where you slide into the drivers seat and rubbed anthracite into it a couple of times (wiping the excess off quickly) and then used leather treatment (303) and it is virtually invisible
If it's a deep scratch, you can build up the thickness with a number of applications
That should do it then - Ask Viponds for 'anthracite' but leave out the '888' or they'll be confused
Oberoi
Sorry if I'm asking a question that is explained somewhere in this post, but... when I order the anthracite from Viponds, what exactly should I be asking for? A specific type of paint? A specific dulling additive?
Also, does anyone have any experience applying this paint? Any tips on applying it? matching the texture?
Ask for 'Benz interior paint - anthracite' - Viponds already dull it down to the right level.
(In earlier times, I used to supply a matting agent separately. - Viponds then rematched all the colours [except anthracite] by matting the base first before the final match - the matting agent can affect the final perception of colour)
If you PM me your email, I'll send extra inf on applying paint etc.
Is this paint peeling problem year specific? I have not seen any 2003's on this post that have the problem. Or perhaps I've missed them. At any rate I'm considering purchasing a 2003 slk320 with under 40k miles. The interior doesn't seem to be having the peeling problems.
Any other problems with these cars which I should be aware before purchasing? THANKS!
__________________
My Stable:
* 1996 S600 "Sebastian"
* 1999 SLK230 Kompressor "Darth's Tie Fighter Toy"
* 1996 C280 (sold)
* 2008 VW EOS Turbo Hard Top Convertible
* 2003 Denali (Big Dog)
* 2003 Envoy (totalled!)
* 2000 Saab 93 Turbo
If somebody has done a good job of touching it up, you would be hard pressed to tell.
Not year specific, all R170s have a black ABS/polycarbonate? console/dash etc which is painted to suit the colour scheme.
I attach a quick list of things relating to the SLK - others may add to it or disagree -It was thrown together for a friend so is not absolutely the last word (might save you a few hrs of reading posts tho)
__________________________________________________ ______
>> The basics of the R170 are the same as the W202 (same
>> engine/trans/brakes/diff/suspension.) so a Haynes book (3511) is handy -
>> there is no manual in hard copy for the SLK but copies of Benz WIS disks
>> can be found on Ebay - I got the set of 2 - never use them - dreadful to
>> navigate but may help one day
>>
>> Transmission -change between 30-50k is good as insurance (jerky first
>> couple of cold changes - normal)
>>
>> Coolant change is vital - 3yrs - use Benz coolant - cheap
>>
>> If it starts throwing codes - Maf is first suspect.
>>
>> Good idea not to use oil type air filter (Maf contamination)
>>
>> Oil separator can be cleaned to ensure no oil gets to Maf - easy
>>
>> Starting/stalling - look at crank pos sensor or cam pos sensor
>>
>> Brake pads/B fluid flush at 2 yrs -easy cheap job
>>
>> Engine mounts are oil filled and can go at 140K kms+ -- quite easy
>>
>> Drive belts (2) at 100k kms - 10 min job - belts cheap
>>
>> At 100+ k kms, consider the lower front susp rubbers - knocking noise
>> when braking hard (Dealer job)
>>
>> Any noise from engine at start up is likely to be belt tensioner brgs
>> (2)- $30 fix - easy
>> Idler bearing is bought as a complete unit (easy fix but $60)
>>
>> Kompressor runs until engine heats up (can feel noisy)- otherwise cuts in
>> at about 2300 rpm
>>
>> --- All of the foregoing would also apply to a kompressor W202 C
>> Class -- nothing special
>>
>> _____________SLK SPECIFIC________________________
>> Peeling console paint - all 6 colours are avail. - easy and perfect $40
>> fix
>>
>> Shocks might be shot at 120k kms+ - easy install - $300US from Tirerack
>> really worth it
>> IMPORTANT - use short wheel bolts in tool kit if fitting the emergency
>> spare wheel - using std wheel bolts will cause serious damage !
>> Important to keep PSE dry (pneumatic pump for central locking etc) RH
>> side trunk -under jack in foam jacket
>> Usual problem is a leaky trunk seal or aggressive hose washing - some
>> guys wrap in plastic or mount upside down.
>>
>> The K40 relay sometimes has an issue with 2 dry solder joints - again
>> easy fix by checking and re soldering
>>
>> Noisy diff/transm. sound is nearly always tyres -aggressive tread is bad
>> news - thousands of posts on this.
>> soft tyres also aggravate the noise -You can tell when tyres need air by
>> the sound
>>
>> Roof has 5 hydraulic rams - oil level inspection RH side in trunk -
>> unusual to have to have to top up- generally reliable.
>> Any problems with roof - check switches first - Lube all hinges with
>> silicone and cycle regularly
>> Clean rubbers where roof joins and lube with rubber grease or special
>> silicone grease (dont use ordinary grease on rubber)
>> Lubing the rubbers will get rid of nearly all creaking - notice how quiet
>> after washing or rain
>>
>> Rattle behind seat is usually 2 rubber blocks fallen out where window
>> touches parcel shelf (in trunk) -1 minute
>>
>> Lights behind heater controls can be changed by pulling knobs off
>>
>> Lights behind speedo cluster is fiddly but do-able - 2 large 15 small
>>
>> Headlights can mist up after washing (they have to breathe)- silicone
>> bead down vert join on lights will fix - 2 min.
>>
>> Loose indicator stalk is a remove st/wheel job - quite easy 2 bolts for
>> airbag and 3 for stalk - big allen key for wheel-(disconn. battery)
>>
>> Door trims can creak/armrest come loose - easy fix - remove trims and
>> re-glue armrest and other bits. - zero cost
>>
>> __________________________________________________ ____
>> Thats about all the specific issues you might run into - Hope I haven't
>> scared the daylights out of you !!! - I have had only 2 issues in 2 yrs
>> (roof switch- [car was in storage] and console paint) -all the rest was
>> mtnce by someone with too much time on his hands!.
>>
>> As with any Benz, a set of Torx sockets and Allen keys is good.
>>
>> _____________Gift suggestions for the SLK wife!!!_____________
>> # Rear centre LED boot light flasher unit - Brilliant safety item
>> $25 -easy install
>> # Crystal or projector headlights - $350 US?
>> # Clear polycarbonate wind deflector - engraved or even lit up! $200+
>># Crystal or projector foglights - $100US?
>> # Polished st/steel exhaust tip
>> # St/ steel handbrake handle
>> # St/ steel fender trims - 55 Euros (German only) + post
>> # St/ steel door handle guards
>> # CLK 2 or 3 bar grille -(a coat of clear lacquer on the original
>> makes it look great)
>> # Oversize wheel/tyre set will compromise the ride further [if this is
>> important to you]
>> # Painted brake rotors - no cost - lot of work!!!
>> # Repainted console will get you a friend for life!
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