Parts check request.. - Benzworld.org

benkokes · 10-05-2004, 10:23 PM

Hey all,,

I have a request from someone who has an AllDataDIY account:

I would like to know what the PN: 111 018 16 82 looks like. I am having a MAF contamination problem and from the Service Bullitins, it could be a clogged vent hose (the above PN)... I just dont know what it looks like or how much it costs..

thanks for the help,

-Ben

LelloSLK · 10-06-2004, 06:39 AM

benkokes · 10-06-2004, 08:09 AM

Thanks Lello..

Where is it located on the intake? does it come off of the oil seperator?

LelloSLK · 10-06-2004, 09:58 AM

LelloSLK · 10-11-2004, 05:07 PM

the shop forman at MB ASC in Va, mentioned that the failure of this part is one of the primary causes of the MAF failures on early SLKs, and it is NOT in the maintenance schedule anywhere. He recommended replacing it, every 50,000 or so miles. I was wrong on the price, it listed at $56.35 (US). MB part number 002-140-68-60. He also said that if the hoses that were conected to it, seemed wet with oil, you might want to clean or replace them. In the photo, I layed the part on the engine, the red line from it points to where it is installed. I disconnected the air hose going into the air box, and moved it, to get a better picture of the part installed.
btw..please no grief about the dusty engine. This was taken after a few trips down my local road (only way to get my house) after they just did a fresh tar and chip coating, a lot of gravel dust.

benkokes · 10-11-2004, 06:17 PM

Great pict! Thanks for the help. How did you clean up your MAF? I have been spraying it with Brake Cleener to get all of the oil off. It seems that I cant do it too much more because some of the epoxy that holds the unit together is coming off....

thanks
-Ben

LelloSLK · 10-12-2004, 07:33 AM

as a preventive measure, as advised by the MB tech at ASC in Va. To 'clean' the hoses and the MAF, I simply used a lint free rag, soaked in Throttle Body cleaner,
and gently wiped the inside of the hoses, and the MAF. I then used Air to dry them..

benkokes · 10-25-2004, 08:10 AM

Thanks Lello for the advice on that valve.

I removed it and replaced it with a new one $61 and NO ONE form Fresno to Beverly Hills had one, I got the dealership in fresno to order one and it took them 2 days to get it. no sweat.

anyhow, when I removed the valve, it was coroded, like moisture was hitting it ( rusted, and had a bit of white calcium-like deposits on it). About a teaspoon of water drained out of the rubber connection tube. Weird. Everything seemed clear and the upstream vaccuum-operated valve worked. I am just wondering why I was getting that weird moisture in the connection tube. The old valve was bad and allowed backward leakage when I applied about 2psi to it, so I am glad I replaced it.

But the problem of the high-end stumble and the bouncy gear-shifts still plague me.
help, anybody... Engine load sensor, maybe?