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Another soft top question

3K views 34 replies 6 participants last post by  Stefanus 
#1 ·
So I've read all the threads, but there is one thing I have not been able to determine.

Will the soft top controller codes stay in the computer even after removing the battery for some time?

Local indys are booked solid for a week so Im trying to find an alternate way to clear soft top codes, but taking the battery off did not seem to help.

Symptoms - solid red non blinking lights on rollbar button and roof button, chime when first driving. 1997.

*edit - also a lot of the threads about scanning tools are from 2012, are there any new cheap scanners that can talk to the soft top controller?
 
#2 ·
Went to the Indy today. For anyone wondering like I was, apparently the codes will stay even with no power. I tried taking the battery off overnight with the roof properly stowed, all the latches in the correct position etc, but when we scanned it today the soft top module had tons of codes.

We cleared them and 2 remain, 134 and 135 which are the codes for a faulty module. The good news is that the roll bar at least moves now and we could get the soft top clamped down in the back.

At this point the roof doesn't even attempt to unlock and retract though and the lights are solid red (and amber rollbar light in the dash). Hoping a reman will take care of this...
 
#3 ·
134 and 135 are codes you can't clear. BBA can attempt to fix these errors. If the can you pay, if not they don't charge you and return the unit.

I had one they couldn't fix, but others have had units with the same code they were able to fix.

worth a try.

However, this code should not normally keep the top from operating, they are roll bar codes. what should happen is the roll bar will automatically come up with ignition on, and you need to drop the roll bar, then raise or lower the top.

I'd first try to manually lower the top, then use the switch to raise, if that doesn't work, raise it manually and latch it, then try to use the switch.
 
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#7 ·
HOLY POO THIS WORKED!

Bought a thing of fuses from pep boys today and swapped out any that seemed relevant, bent the pins on the 40 amp to get a little better contact and scraped off some of the dust (that I assume is oxidation) on the prongs... and now the roof button does something!

1997 does not have the old style fuses but I suppose the issue still exists. Im gonna go through and replace all of them tomorrow, maybe other things will start working.

So now that the button works I know the extent of my hydraulic leaks. Not too bad but may as well do them all at once.

isthenew, please have an internet beer on me! :beerchugr: Thank you thank you thank you!
 
#6 ·
When I had a problem w/the soft-top not functioning and the the roll bar switch lights staying on, I spent months trying to solve it. Eventually, the day before I was going to take it to an indie, I replaced all the fuses for the soft top, roll bar, and power windows. Though they were only 18 months old and looked good, something was wrong, because that fixed the car. Instantly.
Found it. Its worth a shot, I changed out some of the fuses to the spares provided by MB, but I don't think I changed all mentioned. I also noticed that the soft top fuse might not be biting exactly right. I notice that the scrape left on the fuse blade is kind of weak and in a weird spot. Maybe I can bend the blade a little to get some tension on the contact... HMMMMM
 
#10 ·
Have a friend w/a '97 SL320 here that came to me w/a problem where her soft-top button's light was on ALL the time. Even w/no key in the ignition. My first q: Did you jump the battery just before this happened? Her answer: Yes.

Smh. Her indie that worked on the car for like 10 years prior fried that computer.
 
#11 ·
So I decided to do the hydraulics, got them out no problem and sent to Klaus. Got them back and am now trying to reassemble the car. I got the main lift cylinders back in without dropping the bolts so thats good. Pretty sure I put the front locks on upside down and reversed :( Got the rear latches on and now trying to do the tonneau lifts which should be the easiest... BUT I can't figure out how to get that black pressurized strut on the left side back onto the pin. Its so strong I can't compress it.

Any words of wisdom?
 
#12 ·
BUT I can't figure out how to get that black pressurized strut on the left side back onto the pin. Its so strong I can't compress it.

Any words of wisdom?
It's a bitch. Every time I pull that one, I forget how it goes in. I know a rubber mallet doesn't work. I can't remember if I use a pry bar from underneath it, or if I remove the pin for the strut, line the strut up somehow and push in the pin. Pretty sure it's one of those. But I do know I fight w/it and then I'm like, "Next time I have to remember how I did that! It SUCKED!"

Wish I could be of more help.
 
#14 ·
Almost there. All cylinders are in now, but having an issue with the process. When putting the roof up, the last step of the rear latches latching the bow is not happening. After if fails the computer gives up and I have to manually latch the rear and disconnect the battery. To me that means something illogical is happening and the computer flags it. Both rear latches have switches, maybe its something with that. Im pretty darn certain I had the latch fully open when installed per Klaus' instructions.
 
#15 ·
on the rear, do the tangs drop into the slot far enough for the latch to grab them? If not the rear latch may need to be moved up a tad.

make sure the latch is open first, then check and see if the tang drops into the latch properly and far enough.
 
#18 ·
Help !

Hello all fellow SL-owners. I am in the need of some good advice; I was taking my `90 SL 300-24 from it´s winter garage to an annual inspection which I already had an appointment to. It turned out that the battery was dead, even though it was connected to a charger. So I had to Jump-start it and what I have learned going through various threads concerning the Soft-top issue that was a MISTAKE !
Now the situation is like this: Everything is functioning properly manually
-Roll-over bar raises and goes down from the switch
-windows go up&down from the switches
-BUT the soft top won´t open or close from the switch

I have closed and opened the ST manually and checked that all the locks are in the right position
I shorted pins 1-10 with a wire and counted the error codes: it´s continuously giving codes 2,3, and 7
I managed to reset the the codes once but that didn´t help - ST didn´t work..
I checked the locks´limit switches with the ST-tool, the ST-switch lits up when I operate the rear locks manually
It seems to me that the main problem lies with the Roll-bar, the opening / closing sequence sort of jams to the point where the RB is lowered down;
it keeps working; pushing the spring all over again (pls see picture attached) as if it doesn´recognize any limit
If I raise or lower the RB with the switch the hydraulic pump in the trunk doesn´t stop
I haven´t been able to locate the limit switch for the Roll-bar to check it, should be somewhere in driver´s side..?

Any ideas anyone...
 

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#19 ·
So I had to Jump-start it and what I have learned going through various threads concerning the Soft-top issue that was a MISTAKE !
There is little or no risk in jump-starting your car provided you follow the instructions in the owner's manual. The key is to establish electrical connections using the cable with both engines off.

...it keeps working; pushing the spring all over again (pls see picture attached) as if it doesn´recognize any limit.
This is normal. Throughout the top automatic sequence the roll bar hydraulic cylinders are continuously pressurized to lower the bar.

I shorted pins 1-10 with a wire and counted the error codes: it´s continuously giving codes 2,3, and 7
I managed to reset the the codes once...
I would have the top open, all codes erased, and the lamp in the control switch off. Then I would operate the top control switch to close the top and hold it until it flashes or 2 minutes have elapsed. Then I would see what codes have been stored and proceed accordingly.
 
#20 ·
Thanks bobterry for your comments, the thing is, I already went trough the procedure you advised. Pushing the switch reads the codes as expected and after counting the flashes and resetting them the situation remains the same: pump keeps running and if I push the ST-switch repeatedly the springs in the RB-cylinders keep clicking and nothing more happens - only the same error codes will appear...
Am I able to reset the Roll-over bar..?
 
#21 ·
Am I able to reset the Roll-over bar..?
From what you describe your roll bar is working fine, so I don't know what you have in mind with a reset.

...pump keeps running and if I push the ST-switch repeatedly the springs in the RB-cylinders keep clicking and nothing more happens - only the same error codes will appear...
The clicking you hear is probably the solenoid valve that controls the roll bar, and the valve for the compartment cove locks (if it is working).

It seems that while you have hydraulic pressure to the roll bar you have none to any of the soft top components. An early car such as yours has a solenoid valve mounted on the side of the pump -- the "Main Valve". This valve must energize to supply hydraulic pressure to all of the soft top circuits.

To test the Main Valve I would access the hydraulic pump in the floor of the trunk, crack open hydraulic line #12, and then briefly run the pump. If no fluid is seen around the cracked line likely the valve is faulty, or you did not crack open the line far enough. If you see fluid, I would next look at the valve that operates the compartment cover locks...
 
#23 ·
Short up-date from garage:
-the compartment cover locks are working
-I reset once again all the error codes (2&3), let the engine run for a while, checked the codes=>1 flash, but no progress - windows down went as well as the roll-
bar but nothing else except hydraulic pump running as long as I pushed the ST-switch
-Switch showing error codes 2&3 again
bobterry99- I couldn´t crack the hydraulic line #12 yet, it seems to be 11 mm bolt (I do not have the wrench yet) and rather tight so I didn´t dare to use the monkey wrench, but I suppose that´s the next thing to do...

Luckily enough there´s no hurry; it was still snowing today in some parts of Finland :)
 
#26 ·
OK I think I understand. You start the roof down process, windows and rollbar roll down but then the rear never unlocks?

Im not sure if the rollbar has a limit switch to know its down, but in your 1990 there are window sensors in the doors. If the computer doesn't know the windows are down it won't let the roof move.
 
#29 ·
I've tried to locate the roll-bar limit switch but not found yet (If it exists in '90 model)
Your controller consistently and repeatedly has indicated what the problem is, and it is not the roll bar limit switch. Nor is it either of the window limit switches.

I couldn't crack the hydraulic line #12 yet...
Alternatively, you can crack any hydraulic line at any top control cylinder. One of the four in the windshield may be the easiest.
 
#28 ·
Either way, first step in moving the top is the windows and the rollbar go down. Although from what I'm reading if the window limit switches were bad it the roof would make it half way before stopping. So I would think either the solenoids are bad or the controller.

Just remembering since you have a 1990 check out this video

The old style controller has a ton of actual clicky relays inside. Maybe one of them is sticky? Theres probably some way to check the relays...
 
#31 ·
...I opened the hydraulic line #12 totally loose and let the pump run several times for few seconds - no spill - neither from the line nor from the pump..??
This suggests either the controller or the main valve on the pump is faulty. To test, remove the 6-socket electrical connector at the hydraulic pump. If you measure the voltage between female sockets #4 and #1 you should have 12VDC, and you probably do, since your pump runs. Next, with the roof control switch actuated in either direction measure the voltage between sockets #2 and #1. If the controller is working, you should have 12VDC.
 
#34 ·
So I suppose it's not the controller...
Just to be absolutely certain you may want to repeat the voltage measurement between #1 and #2 of the pump connector while the connector is making electrical contact. You probably can just slightly separate the connector enough to insert the test leads of your multimeter without affecting operation of the pump. In theory the contacts of the relay inside the top controller that switches power to the main valve could be faulty in such a way that is only revealed when significant current flows through them.

...am I able to test the main valve somehow
The voltage on #1 and #2 shows that the main valve is powered. So, if the pump is making pressure but no fluid emerges from port #12, then I suppose this proves the valve is faulty. I would remove the valve and look for something obvious.

I have never experienced a failure of the main valve, nor have I ever seen a thread discussing same.
 
#35 ·
Good news from the garage - I went through all connectors and switches, reset the codes, closed the soft-top manually, checked the codes (one flash) and pushed the ST- switch....Soft-top started to open and folded neatly under it's cover !
I still don't know what was the basic problem, but anyhow I repeated the maneuver few times with/ without the engine running - worked just fine....
Thanks bobterry99 and rotarychainsaw for your support and expertise, I appreciate
 
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