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Hard Top

2K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  lostkiwi 
#1 ·
Hi All,
another problem. When I try to release the hard top, it all bangs and lifts, as normal, however, when I release the red button, the back locks back down.

Also, no matter how long you hold the red button in the release position, the light will not go out.
Every, hydraulic ram has been replaced, so no leaks.

also looking for the following parts, I know that I can get them all on ebay, but thought if anyone on here has any spares they want to shift, then I would take them.

1/ Fuel Pump
2/ coils, distributors and rotters.

All must be new.
Cheers,
Rob
 
#3 ·
...when I release the red button, the back locks back down.
I would first discern whether or not the top is locking with or without the aid of the pump. With the boot lid open a second person can listen for the pump to correctly switch off when you release the switch. If the top locks without the pump, then the locks or defective.

Also, no matter how long you hold the red button in the release position, the light will not go out.
The weight of the top sitting atop the rear latches triggers a switch in each lock. If either lock switch is on, then both front and rear locks must be locked to extinguish the light in the control switch.
 
#5 ·
Hi, all,
Thanks for the replies on the hard top, however, what happens is this, I pull back on the red button to release the hard top, but no matter how long I hold it back, the light stays on, and as soon as I let go, the back locks back down, but the front stays unlocked. Before I start, I open both doors, disconnect the wire for the rear demister, turn the ignition on, pull back on the button, the windows come down, everything seems to come unlocked, but when I release the button, the 2 rear locks pull back down into the locked position.

After that, I push the button forward to lock the front, or bow locks but the windows wont go up.

Now, on another note, and I don't want to know about laws, just correct answers.

1/ can you remove the cat converters, or converter, without it interfering with the electronics?
2/ Can you get rid of the oxygen sensor, and if so, is there any resetting required?
3/ Can you Turbo or Supercharge the motor, as if you can, I have a Tech that can retune any ECU.

So, there you have it folks, fire away.
Cheers,
Rob
PS: Looking forward to seeing the mighty Carl Vinson down under, just hope it comes to Sydney.
 
#11 ·
Hi, all,
Thanks for the replies on the hard top, however, what happens is this, I pull back on the red button to release the hard top, but no matter how long I hold it back, the light stays on, and as soon as I let go, the back locks back down, but the front stays unlocked.
I took off my hardtop a few weeks ago and vaguely recall pushing the button forward to release. I end up checking the owners manual or a YouTube video just to be sure.
 
#6 ·
I wouldn't want to pollute your own thread with exhaust questions. Otherwise reading this thread will become exhausting. It could be hard to stay on top of the comments.

Have you tried having someone pull up on the hard top while the top seems to be released before it sucks itself back down? You will probably need to get a look at the internals to diagnose this one.
 
#8 ·
Hi all,
Thank you all for your answers, however nothing there to suggest a possible cause. In regards to putting your fingers under the back to hold it up, tried that, and luckily my son got his hands away just in time, so that is one thing I won't be attempting again.

So, along we go. All the rams have been renewed and when I picked it up everything worked fine, but as I said, I can be driving along, and push the top red button forward and you can actually hear the bow locks locking, let it go and do the same thing five minutes later, and once again the light is on when you push the button, then you hear it locking again, then the light goes out. You could keep doing this until the cows come home, and the same thing happens.

So, come on all of you American men, uncle Rob needs a helping hand, got himself in a hell of a jam, way down yonder in Ozzie Land.

Cheers,
Rob
PS: Any info on the other things?
 
#10 ·
In regards to putting your fingers under the back to hold it up, tried that, and luckily my son got his hands away just in time, so that is one thing I won't be attempting again.

?


My intention was to determine if you could get the rear of the hard top tree, and it sounds like you can't. I would not have let go of the button while my son's fingers were in there.

In any case, it sounds like the rear locks are not popping all the way up to the point where they snap and can hold the weight of the top. Instead, when you let off the button that operates the pump, it stops pumping and the top falls back down.

Get the top tool and manually remove the hard top, and take a look at why they aren't popping all the way up.

Do you have a leak in the system and low hydraulic fluid?

Does something need to be adjusted to get the rear locks top pop into the up position?
 
#9 ·
I don't have info on the other things. Personally, I'd start new threads.

For the hardtop, does it do the same with the soft-top? If so, I'd think electrical. If not, I'd start by looking at the hydraulic fluid levels. There may not be enough to maintain the hard-top's weight.
 
#13 ·
Hi all,
I can get the hard top off by releasing the rear locks manually, When it comes to the soft top to raise it nothing, I can pull it up, also, the pump is working, plenty of fluid, but 2 things, if I fold the soft top over to its position at the front, then pull the back down to where the prong on either side goes, the one the right, (that is if you are standing behind the car looking at it) lines up perfect, however, the other one comes down on the casing I guess you could call it, not in the middle.

The other thing is, why are the bow locks releasing all the time, albeit, not enough to pop the roof up, but as I said, if for example I was sitting in the car now, and pushed the top red button forward, it would light up, and you can here the front locks, locking until the light goes out, then, if I waited 20 seconds, and went through the same process, it would have the same result, push button, light comes on, hear latches locking, light goes out.

In regards to all the rams, they have all been rebuilt, by your man in the USA, and there is no leaks.

Now, let me say this about my car, I have replaced everything on it the would require replacing, it is absolutely spotless, and rides like a new vehicle, lift the bonnet and you would think it was straight out of the show room, but this roof problem has got me.

Cheers to you all,
Rob
 
#16 ·
...then pull the back down to where the prong on either side goes, the one the right, (that is if you are standing behind the car looking at it) lines up perfect, however, the other one comes down on the casing I guess you could call it, not in the middle.
The son who nearly had his fingers crushed...Is he on speaking terms with you? If so, show him the bent prong. He'll know how to correct the problem.

...When it comes to the soft top to raise it nothing...
You might consider reading diagnostic codes for the top controller as explained here. The top controller diagnostic port is wired to socket #21 of the 38 socket connector.

The other thing is, why are the bow locks releasing all the time, albeit, not enough to pop the roof up...
Are you absolutely certain the bow locks are not completely releasing the top? Since the initial force required to lift the top is considerably greater than that required for the hydraulic cylinder to complete its stroke, it is intuitive that the top is in fact released.

...if for example I was sitting in the car now, and pushed the top red button forward, it would light up, and you can here the front locks, locking...
You describe a highly unlikely scenario implying that the front locks are open, you press the switch, they lock, and within seconds they are once again open...Perhaps you hear them pressurizing?
 
#17 ·
Where are the limit switches. After the rams were all done, it seem to work ok, then this. I guess the front ones could be pressurising. The pump could be a problem. Anyone know of a simple method of testing the pump? The bow locks release, but when you let go of the switch, everything just locks back down. At the moment my son is not talking, but that's an attitude issue.
Cheers,
Rob
 
#18 ·
Where are the limit switches.
You have a busy thread here which describes three top problems -- two of which are unrelated -- along with questions about drivetrain modifications.

There are limit switches on the front locks which may be relevant to the light in the switch apparently coming on shortly after you lock the top. A simple adjustment to one or both of those switches would resolve the issue.

There are other switches located on the other four locks, one in the center of the cavity above the windshield, and another in the top storage compartment. Some of those signaling an improper state to the top controller could be the cause of your soft top operation not executing.

No switch is related to what you see happening with your rear locks.

The pump could be a problem. Anyone know of a simple method of testing the pump?
It is intuitive to me that the pump can not be the problem for the reason given in my prior post. If I am wrong, then recognize that a problem of insufficient pressure could be caused by a faulty cylinder on any of the 6 locks as well as the pump. Any time the pump is running the lock cylinders are unconditionally pressurized, and a significant internal leak in any of their hydraulic cylinders would cause a drop in the pressure. The pump and the cylinders are checked by taking hydraulic pressure measurements.

...everything just locks back down.
Stating another way what I mentioned in my first reply to you, my objective would be to discern whether or not this issue is mechanical or electrical. To that end I would determine whether or not the pump is running to lock the top down. Alternatively, with the top removed I would take a wide flat-blade screwdriver or other suitable implement and press down hard upon each rear lock. After slight initial movement which is accompanied by an audible click of a limit switch it should be impossible to depress the lock further.
 
#19 ·
Hi all,
Ok, after removing the top yesterday, I tried to raise the soft top. Nothing, so I manually unlocked the cover, then lifted the soft top up, until it fell into place above the windscreen, then hit the button, and the cover went down, then the rear of the soft top went down to engage the locks, but would not pull down all the way. So, I toggled the switch back and forth a couple of times and it worked. I tried this a couple of times, the cover came up, the rear of the soft top came up, but although the front disengaged, it raised a couple of inches, and would go no further, so I hit the button to look it back in place, the cover came down, the back went into place and the front locked down and the light on the switch went out. All good, I decided to just leave it over night with the soft top in place.

I got up this morning, went out, hit the button, and nothing, had another go, and the back came up, the cover came up but nothing else with the front other than disengaging. So I try to put the back down, the cover came down, only this time, when the back of the soft top came down, the prongs hit about an inch behind the hole where they are supposed to go. I then decided to lower the soft top, and put the hard top back on, and the cover comes up, the rear of the soft top folds down to where it is supposed to go, I then had to pull the front half up from the windscreen and let it just fold away like it should.

So, I said xxxxxxxxxxxxx and put the hard top on, sat it in position, and she locks down or normal like. At this point in time, that is how it can stay.

Now, about those other questions?

Cheers,
Rob
 
#22 ·
Hi All,
I really don't know, but I reckon the soft top lets them down in looks anyway. I herd that you can fit a convertible hard top on them like the latter models, like instead of a canvass top, you get a foldable hard top.

Is this correct? I also herd that every panel on the SL500'S were, or, are interchangeable. Is this true?

Anzac day here,
WE WILL REMEMBER THEM, LEST WE FORGET, OUR WARIORS.
 
#24 ·
Hi All,
In regards to the oxygen sensor, and the cat converter, I want to put a nice new exhaust on, and really would like to get rid of the cat converter. In regards to the oxygen sensor, I don't have an issue putting it into the new exhaust, just wondering if it really needs to be there. My whole aim is to make this thing sound like a real Super Car, I want a far less restrictive exhaust than the original, which will most definitely boost the HP, and I want a good note.

As I said in my original post, with the cat converter, don't concern yourself with legal, or illegal, just want to know if removing it all together will require any resetting, or just get rid of it and all will be good. But I would dearly love to supercharge it, or turbo it.

I am 65 in June, and I want this project completed for my birthday, I WANT A HOTTIE. I want even the cops to say, I can hear it coming, must be old Rob taking his hot rod for a spin.

Cheers,
Rob
 
#25 ·
If you have pre and post cat O2 sensors you'll need to do something to make the post cat sensors think the cat is still there (usually spacing it an inch back out of the exhaust will do the job.The pre cat sensor is there to fine tune the mixture and is used all teh time apart from wide open throttle and when the engine is cold. Keeping it will help make sure the optimal mixture is burnt by the engine.

'93 UK cars only have a single pre-cat sensor. At some point they went to a separate pre cat sensor per bank and some time later to a pre and post sensor per bank. You will need to see what yours has.
 
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