Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

Removing Bow Cylinder is Easy!

9K views 11 replies 3 participants last post by  johnnyhotrocks 
#1 ·
Especially after you have to do it a couple of times.:smile

Step 1- Remove spring loaded top case plate (black plastic guard w/ 3 screws).

Step 2- Position top with front up and rear down- see picture.
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#2 · (Edited)
This exposes the "top" (rod end) of the bow cylinder.

Step 3- Remove the inner circlip and pull out the upper pivot pin. Also remove the white plastic cable guide for the switch (I have already removed it in picture)- see picture.

At this point, you can push the rod back into the cylinder.
 

Attachments

#3 · (Edited)
Step 4- Drop front of top down and lift the rear end- see picture.

Be careful when doing this, keep an eye on the bow cylinder to ensure nothing catches on the switch mounted to it. I am not sure if this is necessary, but there is some concern in the TH instructions about crushing it, but that may be once it is loose.
 

Attachments

#5 · (Edited)
Step 6- Remove the three screws that secure the switch (switch is shown hanging on the left of the cylinder in the picture) and drop the cylinder down and out of its mounting frame- see picture.

You will not be able to drop the cylinder down and out without first removing the switch, it will not clear the frame. Note how the switch's cable is positioned for re-assembly.

Remove hydraulic line clips and that's it! Reach over and pat yourself on the back.

*** Be sure when re-installing the bow switch cylinder to ensure that the "wide" side of the upper part of the rod (that holds the pivot pin) is installed towards the switch, otherwise the switch will not make when the rod is fully retracted.***
 

Attachments

#6 · (Edited)
I found the tools in the next picture particularly useful. The Harbor Freight pick is shaped just right to pull and hold the hydraulic line retaining clips, I did not drop a single one during the entire cylinder removal process. But I did have a magnetic pickup (also from HF), just in case.

The Rotor Clip A-140 is absolutely essential for re-installation. I probably would have fought the circlip installation process for hours and been very agitated by the end. With this tool, you insert the circlip into the tool, reach in, and "snap," you are done. Kudos to members who posted about it. Absolutely essential.

If you lose circlips, a readily available one is the 7/32" size, I got these (black ones) at the Ace Hardware.

Also, you want to take a look at all the circlips after pulling them off. Some will have been deformed during removal. They will be wider than need be. Place it in a linesman's pliers or needle nose plier (as shown in picture) and squeeze back into shape.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
The Rotor Clip A-140 typically goes for $20 used and $33 new on ebay. There is also a less expensive e clip installer made by KB Tools for under $10 on eBay, but that is not what I used. The proper size e clip for the pivot pins is 6mm, so that set should also work. Note that the e clips that hold the locks to the cylinders are smaller, 3-4mm and neither of these tools could be used to put those on, but those are easier, since you're putting them on while on the bench.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top