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Sun Visor Trim Cap

5K views 17 replies 13 participants last post by  smata67 
#1 ·
I am replacing a sun visor trim cap on my 1999 SL500. I got the cap from eEuroparts.com, but don't know how to install it around the visor mounting bracket??
 
#4 ·
You will need to remove the 2 screws to drop the visor and then work the new trim around the end and then reattach. should take no more than 10MIN. FYI I replaced both of ours OEM from MB and they where$50.00@ and less than 6 months later they both broke also.

Good Luck wro87
 
#6 ·
1) Replaced them in my friend's '96 and next time I was in his car, both were broken. I can't believe the lack of quality in these parts. I'm not even gonna replace mine.

2) You don't have to remove any screws.

3) Everything is in the thread below. Including Post 85 which has pictures of the proper angle for the visor to remove it so you don't have to remove any screws. http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1314682-diy-sun-visor-trim-cap-p-9.html
 
#11 ·
Both of mine cracked a few years ago and the rattling drove me nuts. I removed them and haven't bothered to replace them because they would most likely break again in a few years. Best bet is to leave them off and don't look at the holes otherwise, you'll drive yourself crazy.
 
#12 ·
This is one of those cases where the MB design was somewhat flawed or certainly very nearsighted.

The problem is that the trim piece has no degree of freedom to accomodate any error in position of the contour of the upholstered trim at the top of the windscreen relative to the datum of mounting of the sun-visor (and the cap). Over time, the form of the upholstered trim can change and this places too much stress on the unforgiving plastic 'cap' thus causing the breakage.

I've also replaced them only to see them crack again.

A mod that I thought of, but have not yet tried is to take the new unit and cut the two 'legs going to the back 'stirrup' shape where the screw goes thru from the cap, then re-attach it to the cap with 2 small tension springs; one on each of the two 'legs'. This would provide a degree of freedom to prevent the excessive tension on the cap.

There's not a lot of room in that pocket, but it seems doable. The implementation of the tension spring would just require a couple of small drilled holes to engage in the cut sections going out toward the cap.

Just a suggestion.

I don't have R129 now, so I can't try it myself.
 
#13 ·
MINE DON'T BREAK anymore !!!!!!!!!

Obviously use a rubber grommet or just barely screw the screws to where not rattle and up snug BARELY !! and put a drop of glue to "LOCK" the screw from coming loose !~!

Since this thread has been revived ..... As it should.

BEFORE you place the new cheap arse plastic piece onto the sunvisor assmbly TRY this-

Works on every brittle piece of plastic

Step 1- Superglue the orig piece together (unless new obviously)

Step2 - GET "JB weld" and cover a thin covering over the back of the plastic ---MAKING SURE NOT TO LET IT DRIP onto the visible front area! You can leave the jb weld sit for about 45-60mins before applying to make it less runny!

Step 3 - Place it in the hot sun for the day !

viola ! Hard as steel and wont crack !

**IF you make sure to put spacers behind the mounting screws to take the tension off the plastic you wont break it again **

however with the jbweld i did not have to use spacer...but you should to be safe -- Unless you enjoy doing it again


P.S. It also work on the center console to stop the cracks !!
and dash plastic,door plastic,vents, door trim, batt covers......etc etc you get the idea !!!!

PPS To remove the round metal clip use a house nail and GENTLY pry up 2tabs
to replace the round star clip - Do not use a hammer but use a pair of vise grip or pliers directly smashing down the center-- then grab a 10-12mm socket and GENTLY tap the clip back on--- !! i have reused the clips several times till i found the jb weld cure !!
 
#15 · (Edited)
They crack because of the pressure from the screw that holds them in place. After my second set cracked, I bought two new ones and removed the bracket where the screw goes through. Just put the screw into the sun-visor bracket without the trim piece being held in with the screw. Cut a small piece of Velcro and install one side on the trim piece and the other side on the header. Problem solved. No stress on the trim piece anymore. My fix has been there for over ten years on my 95. If yours is cracked but no pieces missing, epoxy the crack on the back side of the piece, remove the bracket and add the Velcro. Be safe....
 
#16 · (Edited)
I just finished up reinforcing my rear view mirror console. I used the JBWeld Plastic Bonder, a 15 minute set epoxy that comes in a syringe. There is also a Plastic Weld which looks very similar, but it is probably too quick setting for this work, 5 minutes. Anyway, I have been reinforcing broken plastic parts for years with the original JBWeld, but this Plastic Bonder will be what I use going forward. Strength-wise, it appears to be very similar (you have to be careful, many quicker setting epoxies are significantly lower in strength), but right off the bat, the consistency is thicker and within a few minutes, it is ready to apply where you want it without running. The original JBWeld will run when initially mixed, which will have its place when that is desired, but the quick set and thicker consistency of the Plastic Bonder make it more desirable for these plastic part repairs.
 

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#18 ·
After reading this theory regarding the tight screws being the culprit for the cracking of the visor tabs and having just installed the overhead console, makes great deal of sense that the console cracking is also due to the screws holding the console rigidly in five points. Due to its location, it is subject to a great deal of heat. The coefficient of expansion of plastic is high relative to most materials. My console cracked all by itself, just sitting there. I think I'm going to go back and put epdm washers under each one of the screws, at the very least the two forward screws which can be accessed without yanking the mirror. This might just solve the console cracking issue (along with the gobs of JBWeld at all the critical stress points).
 
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