Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

Introduction. New Member / 97 SL500

1K views 18 replies 13 participants last post by  ceta4zng 
#1 ·
Hi
I've been lurking for some time and recently purchased my first (hopefully only..) SL500.
I managed to hold to one cardinal rule, but probably break another:
1) Buy the best, lowest mileage you can afford regardless of year.
I think I followed that rule. I got a 1997 SL500 with 61K miles in Fla.
2) The worst thing you can do is buy a cheap Mercedes.
I may have broken that rule? This one was $3500. I justify it to myself it was kind of a barn find. Not really, but a little. Carfax and condition confirmed to me that the mileage is accurate.

Car is in good condition - Blue w/Tan interior (exactly the colors I wanted) with a hard top. It had junk tires and battery - those have been dealt with. It's being shipped home now, I'll upload pics and post the link when possible.

Paint, Engine, Tranny seem very good. Yes, it had the hardtop. It has the maintenance book, but it's blank. (I know..)

Known bad: Driver side tie rod (inner) is very bad and ball joint boot is torn. I've done these parts before on several vehicles - assume these can't be much harder on the MB. Interior is a bit rough on plastic trim around doors, visors. Rearview mirror completely busted - all that's left is the ball socket hanging there. Convertible top unknown but it's winter here and I really don't mind the gamble there - can deal with in 6-9 mos. Happy to drive as a hardtop for 18 mos if needed.

I've got some experience with cars. Used to be heavily involved in the Fiero world and restored a few including swapping engines, modifications, etc.

I welcome comments, insults, jokes.
- Brian
 
See less See more
#3 ·
From what I have read here, the 1997 model year is one of the mentioned
preferable ones. 61K miles, wow.
 
#4 ·
Winner, Winner Turkey Diner!
You have the right skill set and will gain experience with the world of Benz. ( I wish you a friend in the parts department )
all the items that time takes its toll are no different with any vehicle.
The interior has a special set of opportunities with plastic parts that are not free! ( Mirrors are recycle parts dealers )
Good luck and enjoy the ride! sorry you are so far north, but winter will be a good time to sort out the needs from wants.
 
#6 ·
Congrats on your purchase hope everything works out. Since you can do your own repairs you are ahead of the game but I'll disagree that even if you DIY that the rule doesn't apply. Parts can get pricey and although we aren't paying someone the time spent around a car is time lost and that may have even more value than money. Sounds like yours needs TLC as it seems to have been a bit abused considering the mileage.
 
#8 ·
There is a wealth of information on this website. However I have found the search function is so faulty I use Google and include Benzworld to find what I want it benzworld.

The mirror might be repairable.

Will become very familiar with epoxy.

Your car is one reason why I simply don't trust low mileage cars. Nothing wrong with them but you can't use low mileage as the only criteria.

I'll take my 96 with 170,000 miles any day. Just finished the 2700 mile trip through the south west with no issues.
 
#9 ·
"Am I the only one who feels that everyone else got a better deal on their SL?"

No. I spent six months trying to find a decent R129. I did not want some for five owner car with no records. I end up buying a one owner and find out it had Care till about the last three years then it was passed around to friends and family.

Probably have close to $20,000 in the car but it is all sorted out now.
 
#10 ·
Congratulations and welcome to the forum! The combined knowledge of BW is truly great.

$3500 for a low mileage SL 500 1997 seems almost too good to be true - let's hope there are not too many skeletons in the closet. Since you're able to DIY, spend money on quality parts. Lots of experience here on which parts should be OEM and which can be from a reputable after market supplier.

Good luck!
 
#11 ·
Congrat and welcome to this forum. That was a good price for such low mileage. Tie rods are pretty easy to replace on this car if you have the right tools for that type of job. I replaced both sides on mine within less than 1h30mns taking my time. I would suggest to replace all the fluids: engine oil, ATF, brakes, steering and the soft top fluid to so as to start frresh.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for all the responses

Hi, all and thanks for so many responses.

I think the $3500 number is going up fast. I'm already into it $5K between purchase, shipping, tires (good Bridgestones at least I hope they are) and battery. I'll quickly add another 500 on the mirror and suspension fixes. Rearview mirrors seem to be a sore point even in the later years. I noticed both outside mirrors were pretty loose too. Maybe I'll get lucky, or maybe I'll be another 600 in the hole by week's end. There was a 9900 dollar similar one in nice condition (80K miles in NJ - still listed) - hopefully I end up beating that number but I may not.
I'm a firm believer that all three legs of wear are equal - Mileage, Age, and Maintenance.
And Thanks for the benzworld search tip.

Ruindr - I assume the MB parts are in the areas of suspension (shocks..), electrical/sensors, and tranny? I was going to go aftermarket on the tie rods, ball joints...

alpac - right tools? Quick glance they looked like tapered joints. Right tools typically = hammer and a fork tool? Maybe a puller for the outer tie rod? I know some cars used to 'stake' the tie rods, but I think loctite should do it right?

If I'm pulling the spindle, figure maybe do outer tie rod, upper ball joint, and maybe even wheel bearings all at once? (Were there uppers or is it a fixed strut?) Re-set the wear clock back to zero? Are any of those way more cost or trouble than they are on a 'typical' car?

Forum searches beginning in earnest..

- Brian
 
#13 ·
Ruindr - I assume the MB parts are in the areas of suspension (shocks..), electrical/sensors, and tranny? I was going to go aftermarket on the tie rods, ball joints...
As a general rule, I would choose OEM on critical engine/fuel delivery parts and where the labor is substantial to change the part. A non-critical area where it is easy to swap you can easily go after market. I like online stores like pelicanparts and autohausAZ since they normally have both options and you can then decide on cost/quality equation. For shocks Bilstein has a very good reputation. For rubber mounts, stay away from URO. Febi Bilstein and Meyle seems to have good quality on suspension/steering parts. Brake parts seem to have the most options and opinions. Many swear to Akebono pads.

This is by all means my personal opinion based on own experience and all the comments on the forum the last years.
 
#17 ·
Hi, Yes you're right that is a rule.

I'm in Boston and honestly the car for me is about 10 things before the convertible comes into play. If it never opens, I'll still be happy with the car.
This was a small dealer who picked this up at auction and it sat in his lot. I think it is understandable he didn't want to risk breaking the car as part of showing it. What if it opened halfway and stuck? Then he's into it thousands more he'll never get out of it. He doesn't even know how it works. Frankly, neither do I yet.

So, I'll try to remember to post the update - but I won't even try to remove the hardtop till probably May. Maybe June.
- Brian
 
#18 ·
You might get lucky

Well I can tell you when I bought my 97 SL600 in May of 13' I didn't get the Hard Top off for the first time till about 3 hours AFTER I had the SL home after I had already bought it. :eek

I also bought it from a small Independent Dealer w/43k miles on it. :angel

The Hard Top came right off & 4 summers later my Soft Top has gone up & down at least 80 times without a problem & doesn't leak so much as a drop of fluid. :angel

I know my purchase experience was an anomaly but it can happen & you may find out that your top works just fine. Here's hoping it does!! :grin
 
  • Like
Reactions: HA25
#19 ·
I didn't test my soft top until I got the car home either. My assumption (after reading about Klaus and Top Hydraulics) was that on a 14 year old car with 100k miles on it - the seals would need to be done and I expected that additional cost. Sure enough, the front cylinders leaked (but the top worked fine and looked new) - So two weekends and a stipend to TH later - top works like new and the car was still a great deal.

I was more happy that it had its original hardtop - I thought that would have been a larger expense -
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top