Like a lamb to the saluter, I attempted to rebuild some of the hydraulic cylinders on my Mercedes. Wo and misery has followed my work. Since reinstalling the cylinders I now have a no run pump and the windows will not go up and roll bar is down and not responding.
If I could just get the windows working I would happily live with the hardtop
only.
I hope some one will have mersey on an old fool and offer some segustions
just to get the windows working again.
That bag of snakes has been captured and subdued by members who encountered almost all conceivable problems related to R129 hydraulic top. Search the forum and you'll find the answers particularly posted by our famous hydraulic top snake tamer, Klaus of Top Hydraulics.
I just sprung for a Star 4. In for a penny, in for a pound. If I can't get my problem fixed it, Star 4 will go on sale, including a 1997 SL500 with wax paper side windows.
:banghead:
Did the pump ever operate after you re-installed the cylinders ? If it did not, you most likely have a blown fuse. Those little bastards are tricky, so just replace em all with the new brass fuses. That's number one. Do you have a red light or alarm on the roof switch ? More than likely you have a limit switch screwed up that is simply telling the controller that it is not ready to move. Look up the limit switch locations and make sure that they are properly engaged and aligned. I had one slip to the wrong side of a bow on the drivers side and the top stopped. Hopefully you did not run your battery dead along the line and jump start the car. That generally KILLS your nice expensive controller :eek. Klause is a great guy and has helped tons of folks figure these things out. I don't know what you used for seals, lets pray it wasn't Horror Fright O rings or Ebay crap. He has reverse engineered these things eons ago and has had a better product manufactured of superior material and only charges around $ 50.00 bucks each. This my friend is as close to a free meal as you'll find in the World of Benz. Look those things over and report back. You might start making some new windows out of cardboard in the meantime ! :grin
THANKS. Yes, the pump will cycle on for a second or two if I turn the IGN s/w on 2 and I push either of the window Up buttons or, Down buttons. Occasionally I will get the same response trying the top up or down button. If I try a second time, I must recycle the IGN. s/w again and it responds the same way.
I have checked all the fuses and sockets and they are in pristine condition. No lights on or flashing on the roof s/w. No response from role bar s/w. I have recharged the battery with a 6 anp max charger from leaving the doors, hood and trunk open over a weekend. I'm quite sure a 6 amp charge would nor damage anything.
You will see I swallowed the bullet and went for the $350 STAR 4C.
O yes, I have already made some door windows out of wax paper and if thing don't work out, I've got plains in mind for some LEXON, Super Tape and VELCRO.
With the fuses in the trunk, don't just do visual inspection, they may look OK but the aluminium contacts at each end corrode and lose contact with the fuse holder, so remove each one and clean each fuse contact with emery paper and also the fuse holders.
This also applies to the main fusebox under the bonnet/hood.
It's the old story of dissimilar metals corroding when in contact with each other especially if dampness is involved.
Most of us change the fuses with the type with brass end contacts.
even with faulty seals the windows would work .... my $ is on the fuses or possibly an electrical connection, maybe at the trunk fuse box, that got severed when removing the cylinders
retrace your steps and check which wire or connector may not have been reconnected when you re-installed your cylinders. If the first go-around on that doesn't help, then use the Star C4 that you just purchased. That's what it's there for, and you will just have to learn how to use it...
Klus, Thank you for your post. I have been over the wiring and the wiring plugs twice and can find no problems there.
One thing I did find today is if I cycle the drivers door lock the pump runs and it seems as though there is something going on with the one or more of the cylinder mounted in the trunk. I can see a little movement in the tonneau cover. I though I was careful with the cylinder tubing locations but I could have slipped up here. I may try unhooking the bottom of the cover lift cylinders and see what that does using the door lock to energies the pump
Again Thanks,
Ken
That red thingy is for the lock of the gas filler door
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