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Average Expected Repair/Maintenance Costs for SL500?

45K views 42 replies 24 participants last post by  e-420 
#1 ·
Hi all,

I'm considering purchasing a '96-'02 SL500 and I'm curious what the average yearly upkeep / repair / maintenance cost is for these model years. Just a ballpark is OK, and of course I have done my research and am looking to buy only a well-maintained car, preferably single owner or two owners max, with extremely low miles (budget is around $15k tops but would prefer to find something with 40-60k miles in the $10-$13k range).

If it matters, I live in CA in the SF Bay Area, so I do expect to end up paying more than much of the country. I'm not at all mechanically inclined, although I've heard from some that these cars are easy to work on even for complete beginners? I intend to take the car to an indy mechanic and probably not a dealer - I'm certain in this area there's plenty of specialists.
 
#2 ·
I have owned my '02 for five years. It had 80,000 miles when I got it, and I have put on another 15,000. In my experience, I have found it to be solid and reliable, and repairs and maintenance costs are about the same as for any car. I am mechanically inclined and like to many things myself, but prefer to take it to the pros if I have a larger repair. The AC compressor was shot when I bought the car, and that was expensive. But that job is costly on any car.

Keep in mind that we are talking about cars that are already 15 to 20 years old, so even with low miles, there will be things to take care of. Seals can suffer from lack of use as much as from normal wear and tear, plastics degrade over time and lose their strength and flexibility, etc.

This car has three advantages over many other cars:
1) It is very easy to work on. It seems that MB engineers put emphasis on designing it to be serviced.
2) It is sold all over the world, so it has a large base. Parts are neither costly or hard to find.
3) And most importantly, this forum is a treasure. Of all the car forums I hang out on, none have such a good group of knowledgable and helpful enthusiasts. You can learn everything about your SL. If you have a problem with it, you will find that someone has had that problem before you and the solutions are already documented in the discussions on this forum. If not, you will usually get quick answers to your questions.
 
#3 ·
The costs can add up. Definitely get it inspected by someone who knows these cars.

Make sure there are no leaks in the top hydraulics. That is the only thing unique to this car. Other than that, I think any car of similar age will have common problems.

Mine is a 1991 and I've spent more on repairs than the car cost. I love the car though.

If I had to do it all over again, I would have bought a 1999-2002. Some of the guys on here say those are the Chrysler years and think they are inferior. In my mind, they are the newest cars and age related problems may be delayed a few years.

I'd stay away from 1993-1995 as the wiring harness was inferior. They biodegrade.

Many people say 196-1998 are the best years as they have the M119 engine and the five speed transmission.

Here is a good source of information.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/sl/r129history.htm
 
#12 · (Edited)
I'd stay away from 1993-1995 as the wiring harness was inferior. They biodegrade.

Many people say 196-1998 are the best years as they have the M119 engine and the five speed transmission.

Here is a good source of information.
Mercedes SL500 R129 1990s History
The OP has already said that he is seeking a 96-02. I too would stay away from 93-95 SL500SLs but not because of the engine wiring harness. The chance of coming across a 93-95 with an original harness is infinitesimally small. If you ever came across one it would undoubtedly be one hell of a car that would be well worth the relatively small cost of a new harness. The reason for staying away from 93 to 95 V8s is the ASR system - ill conceived, poorly executed and a nuisance of biblical proportions.

I agree with loooney - the Ken Rockwell site is an especially bad source of information.
 
#4 ·
It's a hard call depending on how well the car has been maintained. Pieces of string come to mind.

A rough guide I use for most old cars is to be prepared for 5% P.A. of the original purchase price. This can be reduced if.

a) You do some of you're own work
b) Lucky

The SL's are quite well built so I'd hope to improve on this figure but no guarantees. If budget is tight an SL could be a risky proposition.
 
#10 ·
Some here may have a different experience but it depends on your vehicle's condition and what you're indie's hourly rate is. Assuming it's in fine shape you shouldn't have to budget more than $1,000 per year. If you keep it long enough, some years it will be $2,500 or $3,000, some will be $0 but deferring maintenance will cost you dearly.

I've owned my 300SL almost 24 years and had only a few expensive years. The 300 (6 cyl.) is not a direct comparison as the 8 and 12 cylinder models have different issues. The older the model, the more you're going to have issues with the R129's inferior plastic parts. Although those are not expensive to replace or repair the number of items that can and will break is high so be ready for that.

My experience with self-maintenance is mixed, I tend to stay away from the oily parts and suspension...and that's where the big costs can be. To take on those issues you'll need good (and sometimes specialized) tools and if you're really serious, a lift.

The top hydraulics, electrics/electronics, vacuum accessories, etc. can easily be tackled by someone with minimal experience if you know how to troubleshoot. There's a wealth of information on this forum but you have to spend the time researching and eliminating troubles to figure out what needs to be fixed. Then it's usually straightforward.

My 2 cents...Get a good PPI and pay for the cleanest maintenance-free item you can find. Find a current or previous R129 owner to go with you when you do the test drive/walk-around. You'll not regret spending the upfront effort because these cars can eat you up with problems...just look at some of the recent buyers on BenzWorld who thought they were getting a good deal because of a low price. Good luck!
 
#5 · (Edited)
I think you are on the right track with your budget and wanting a 1-2 owner car the only thing I won't agree with is putting a premium on mileage. I have seen more than a few here that bought low mileage cars that have had way more problems than a high mileage example. For me the biggest worry is that people will only service the car according to miles instead of age so you may have someone that hasn't changed the motor oil in years because it hasn't accumulated the miles. The top likes to be exercised so one that hasn't been will be more prone to having leaks in the hydraulic cylinders, but the good thing here is a forum sponsor rebuilds them for an outstanding price.

As far as annual cost, depending on what you get it can be anywhere from $200-$5000 for the first year, it is really hard to say but I think once you get the car running correctly I would say you should average about one to two thousand a year in maintaining it barring any large failure. If you can DIY some repairs all the better.
 
#9 ·
If you plan on getting everything in top shape, I think you can expect to spend $1500-2000 a year for the first few years, given the age and mileage of the car you're looking for. Even then, you likely won't have a car in perfect shape. I've averaged about $2000 a year on my 1999, but most of it was preventative maintenance costs rather than repairs that needed immediate attention. ie, spark plugs/wires, shocks, all engine rubber seals, transmission flush, etc.

When I was shopping for an SL500, one irritating thing I found in all but one of the M113 SL500's I test drove before purchasing mine was that they all had valve cover leaks and therefore wreaked of burning engine oil. Don't count out cars that have this issue, just take a look around the valve cover gasket to make sure that is what you are smelling. It is not a huge mechanical problem, however it will cost you about $600 or so to have the valve cover gasket fixed if you don't do it yourself.

Whether or not you can work on the car depends more on if you are mechanically inclined, rather than if you are a beginner or not, IMO.
 
#11 ·
About a year ago I paid $9K for my 1998 SL500 with 46k miles and brand new tires. It is in very good shape mechanically and cosmetically. I paid more than many have but all I have done is change all fluids except for coolant. I'll do rad hoses, coolant and serpentine belt when the weather warms a bit.

I have no regrets having paid $9k.

Look for one in good shape, test all functions, get it inspected...
 
#42 ·
I'm looking at a 1998 SL500 with 93K, three owners but very clean, and I'm close to closing a deal at $9,500. As long as the pre-purchase inspection goes well, is this a decent deal? Compared to yours, it doesn't sound like it.
 

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#13 · (Edited)
Since your not into DIY, expect higher annual costs than those of us who do most of our own work.

One thing I would budget for is WHEN you need to replace the top cylinders. Note I said, WHEN, no IF. The cars are getting old and the cylinders, like those on any brand convertible WILL eventually fail. And timewise your into the failure start period. Good news is that top hydraulics does an excellent rebuild job, and sound like MB cylinders are more robust than some others. Downside it you'll spend abou $700 for the rebuild PLUS having someone remove/install the cylinders. That's probably going to be in the same $ range, even at an indy.

Buy the best example of a well maintained excellent condition car you can. That will minimize your annual expenses.



We bought a second owner, full records 97 that was well maintained. PO had it since it was one year old with about 6K miles on it till dec 2013 and 90K miles. I have all the service records since 6K miles, it was always serviced at the local MB dealer. PO spent $13K in those 13 years on service. and from the records, normal service was done more often than MB specified, and when anything wasn't working it was fixed.

Money I spend since then, doing all the work myself was basically in three categories.
1) Doing Preventative maint for the car to last another 100K miles. Things like flushing brake fluid, new pads, new rotors, new shocks, transmission fluid change, coolant change. That was about $1k
2) Fixing a few things that were broken, washer motor, (BTW car wasn't driven in rain, and I don't, took 3 months before I realised bot washer motors weren't working) few interior switches and plastic, That was maybe $200
3) The BIG BIG one, if, like me you get bitten by the "what can I do to the SL today? bug" add bluetooth hands free phone, better tires, heated seats, redye seats, euro headlights, euro warning triangle install, lumbar support, burlwood shift surround, etc. etc.

However, based on my experience with the SL, and 8 years with a 97E420, and looking at the SL PO records, if you budget $1k/year for routine care, even with a indy, on average, you should be covered IF you start with a well maintained car.

And I also agree with loooney - the Ken Rockwell site is an especially bad source of information.
 
#14 ·
Good thing I didn't see the 5 % rule when I bought my 600 :grin That would be $ 7,000 a year on a car that cost $ 140,000 all in for the poor (or rich) bastard that owned it first ! I have been very lucky in that I have spent waaaaaay less that that for these last 3 years. This year ramped up a bit due to the upcoming replacement of the radiator, (cracked tank) and water pump (pre-emptive) and rear tires and seat upholstery. DIY I'm thinking about a grand a year is about right on my car. The P.O. has chosen a pretty trouble free year range and has a realistic budget and goal of getting the best he can. Very good plan for a non-wrencher.
 
#15 ·
The 5% p.a. thing isn't exactly a rule :eek: more a general old car guideline I use. Some cars are more expensive than others (R230, Porsche, Maserati etc)
I like to overestimate then anything else is a bonus. :grin

The reality with an R129 is once it's up to speed one should be comfortably under.
 
#16 ·
I bought my '98 in 2006 and thought it was in good condition since the second owner, my brother-in-law, had it in protected storage for 2-3 years. (He was a tuna boat captain, gone much of the time).

I immediately replaced the tires and ALL fluids, and have dealt with misc. plastics issues. Next is the PS pump*, the front brakes, and the two front top cylinders, all of which I will do. (106,000 miles)

Can anyone give me a little moral support that the other cylinders won't fail soon? [Just not in my retirement budget right now.]

*Autohaus "shipped" seal kit 10 days ago, really bad performance with UPS Innovations. Still not here . . .
 
#19 ·
Cykinder Repair



Yes, it's either him or the kit the other guy sells for about $35. [No ebay O-ring kits, bad idea.]

Klaus claims to do something special to the inlet fittings where the car tubing connects. Does anyone know how those connections are sealed and what Klaus does to improve them?

I hope to get by with just those two. I do see some black particles floating in the trunk tank. I will filter or change that fluid, have it on hand in anticipation of doing something.

I didn't know I had a problem until I decided to test the roll bar and saw fluid dripping on my seats.

I took the hard top off and on a few years ago so the problem is just now developing. I really don't want to go into the other larger, hard to get to, cylinders.

Thanks-
 
#18 ·
I've owned two different R129s (a 1996 SL320 and a 2002 SL500). Both have been totally reliable. The 320 never had a single issue other then having to replace a fuse (fifty cents to fix). The only issue with the 500 was a cracked line behind the dash that caused the center dash vents to not fully blow (two-hundred at the Mercedes dealership). That's it! I had all of the roof cylinders in both cars replaced. I got the cylinders from Klaus and did the labor myself, which was quite easy actually.

My SLs have been nothing but tenable and effortless to own and enjoy. I'm not saying that is necessarily the norm but this has been my own experience.
 
#21 ·
there have been threads here proving that there is no basis for the 99-2002 being inferior

ken rothwell is an idiot and being a prior 1990 owner i saw right through his little chingadera and viewed the 99 as a better vehicle and after owning both there is no comparison. when rothwell claimed that the newer awesome stereo head deck was actually dangerous and could cause an accident because of the location of the buttons he officially entered full retard mode.

imo, unless you are getting the sl60 there is no reason whatsoever to set out specifically for the pre chrysler era 129s
 
#22 · (Edited)
while losts of rumors and stories exist, the fact is that Mercedes BOUGHT and RAN Chrysler, not the other way around. The "merger of equals" as MB claimed in reality was MB running chrysler, replacing chrysler mgmt with MB folks. Both had reliability issues during those years, atributably mostly to the then current MB upper management which was at some point removed. Some say stepped down, some say fired.

As for years to buy, IMHO look for what you want, the find one, what year IMHO really isn't that important. Features changed, colors changed, options changed, find what you want, don't get hung up on a specific year.
 
#24 ·
Since I am also looking but not currently an R129 owner, I can only weigh in on the hunt, not the actual cost of ownership. I believe you are in the right price range as well. I am on the other coast and prices during this winter at least are right in the range - $10K - $15K. And this same, 4-5 cars, were all in various dealers, but not M-B dealers. I am focused on '99-02 only at this point and all the ones I looked at were those years. Many prefer the sport package with staggered wheels, I don't particularly like the look and prefer factory 'pinwheel' rims.

I let one good example get away. One owner, '76K miles, very clean. It sold about a month ago for $10K. The only reason I let it go was color - it was white and just wasn't sure. I also prefer BLK or Silver. The one that has my attention right now is a BLK 2000 example with very low miles, only 21,500, and came from one family (the son bought from the father and apparently never drove it so traded it in).

Anyway, good luck with your search and for what it's worth, I also intend to have a PPI done by a specialist or M-B no matter how good it looks to me.
 
#25 ·
I paid $9250 for a 2000 one-owner with 101K and ALL service records. Have had it for 25K. Did front rotors and pads (not quite needed, but I was in the mood), and TPS as preventive maintenance. Has been flawless in its operation. Run, drives, like a new car.

Buyers should take their time to find the car they want with records. Then you know it was cared for and what was and was not done.
 
#30 ·
Maybe $1-10k was a bit tongue in cheek. In any case, I'd say purely maintenance and repair wise, an SL500 would have to be in pretty horrible shape to call for $4-5k in the first year to bring the car up to speed. Of course, you wouldn't be purchasing a car that needs an engine/tranny replacement or major body work.
 
#32 ·
Same here, which is the genesis of my theory that if you don't know enough to do your own PPI you shouldn't buy one. If my theory was prevalent market values would be even worse than they are because I'm pretty sure there are more cars than there are people willing and able to work them. Thank goodness for the big spenders.
 
#33 ·
I've just added mine up :eek

So the 1st yr
Discs pads all round, all fluids, all filters, engine fan, soft-top windows, rear shocks, top mounts, arb bushes, steering shock, AC recharge, lambda probe, flex discs, new radio, and a myriad of tiny jobs that improve the whole car but can't be costed.
Approx £2000. (3000 bucks)

My labour is F.O.C. but if I costed it in I reckon £1000. Electrical fault finding and general fettling has taken hours but cost me little. (What else would I do with my time?)

I could have spent a whole lot less but it's getting the car how you want it. :wink

Here's hoping the costs ease up in subsequent years.
 
#34 ·
Costs



Since your's is apparently a '94 those costs may make sense. My '98 SL500 is beginning to cost more than I would like but it's probably still less than buying a new car. My wife's '99 ML320 started having problems right away, and she bought it new.

As I have posted before, I spent far less (total) on 4 Corvettes over 25 or so years than I have spent in 7 years on the SL

I am amazed by those 150,000 and 200,000 mile badges some drivers have on their car. Either quality has declined or they spent a lot of money over the days.

Oh, well. You make a choice and are stuck with it.:crying
 
#37 ·
It's not the plastic that worries me.

Is the electronics, like EZL, modules, etc.

That are not manufactured....

It will stop me dead, on my tracks.

Then maybe then.
I will remove the hard top.

Park it open in my garage.
Music on, beer in hand.

Closed eyes, remembering the old good days.

Regards,
aam.
 
#38 ·
Good morning Harami,
I purchased my 1998 SL 500 Sport Package
16 months ago.
I love the SP's offset 18" tires in the corners.

I'm in the miles don't matter camp with Pete.
I bought mine with 111,000 miles.
It had good maintenance records

I purchased this SL as a short term driver for my wife.
She needed a driver until she decided on a brand new convertible.
We gave her 2000 E320 to my son to drive.

6 weeks later she made her decision.
I was going to list the car on Craigslist.
The wife says keep it. Have sum fun.

I said only if I can get it to CPO running condition.
She agreed.

I just eyeballed the receipts.
+/-$8,500 in mechanicals/indie labor
Keep in mind I am a checkwriter.
I do not twist wrenches.

There was a lot of deferred maintenance of this car.
Tires, brakes, and the convertible top hyraulics had been rebuilt recently.

My Mistress has received ALL the love.
All fluids replaced, transmission serviced
Motor mounts
AC replaced
New belts, hoses, thermostat
new ignition
Spark plugs/wires
PS rebuild
New Struts/shocks & alignment
Battery
remanufactured top module
a used top motor (plus a used spare just in case)
New radiator

The reward?
A Machine that has run 127MPH top down.
Smooth as silk over glass.
AND it wanted more!

I anticipate spending maybe $1500/year over the next 3-5 years.
It's worth every penny if it is double!

Cheers,
60
 
#39 ·
I just eyeballed the receipts.
+/-$8,500 in mechanicals/indie labor
Keep in mind I am a checkwriter.
I do not twist wrenches.

There was a lot of deferred maintenance of this car.
Actually not that far behind you. Luckily my a/c and tires were good.

If you aren't a do it yourself kind of guy, I think the key is finding someone that has already refurbished the car. Let the PO take the hit and enjoy the rewards.
 
#41 ·
Looked at my last three years of records and my costs have been $4,800 (and that includes new tires). That works out to about $1,600 per year.

I rarely do any "oily parts" maintenance myself (only engine oil changes, etc.) and use an Indie or Dealer for things that need a lift or special tools. Most electronics, broken parts, easily replaceable items I'll do and I figure that would be at least another $1,000 or more if it was done professionally...however, if my time was $100/hour it'd be $5,000+ :)

Fortunately the six-cylinder engine is pretty bullet proof and except for a head gasket in 1999 It hasn't needed any work (knock on wood!). From what I read here the 8-cylinder engines appear to need more TLC...you'll need to get that delta cost (if any) from the 300HP hot-rodders.

Even if you live in SF all you need is some hand tools and the procedures/knowledge from this forum and you can take on many jobs that might seem too difficult at first sight. You can sure save some money and learn a few things along the way.
 
#43 ·
It looks clean. I looked for a clean well maintained car, finally found one paid $8800 for a 97 all service records, etc. etc. but needing new shocks. original price was $9500 with PO having a indy put on new shocks. I said I'd do that, drop price $700. got bilsteins, akebono brake pads, new rotors and money left over.

I'd rather drive than spend $$$ bringing one up to my standards. If that's your goal, find the best one you can that you like and pay the premium and enjoy it.

Personally, I'd pay $9-$10 again in a heartbeat for one in very good condition.
Is it a decent deal??? only you can say, but if it was me it would get serious consideration at that price if it was in good shape.

From what I can recall on this forum, those who have paid the $$ for well maintained good examples have been very happy and not regretted it.

Those who have bought units that needed attention, even if they new it, have often made the comment to others, go for a good one, that's what I would do again.
 
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