M113 Crankcase Vacuum Hoses and Intake Manifold Warning! - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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Old 07-07-2012, 08:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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M113 Crankcase Vacuum Hoses and Intake Manifold Warning!

The M113 uses a revolutionary (and elegant) intake manifold design that actually changes the runner length by vacuum operated flaps. When dictated by throttle position and engine RPM, the flaps close and direct the intake air to provide a more suitable runner length at the appropriate RPMs. The manifold is assembled using two major castings (upper and lower) and joined with "plastic" (according to WIS) at the factory, so it cannot be disassembled. The flaps are activated by a vacuum actuator mounted on the front of the intake manifold (behind the electric air pump, slightly towards the drivers side). The vacuum reservoir used to activate the flaps is inside the manifold and contains enough vacuum reserve for 5 activations without replenishment.

The vacuum hose connection for the reservoir is inside the lower housing. The connection is made through a hole at the lower front of the manifold. Because of the assembly process, the actuator vacuum hose is integral with the seal for the hole in the outer manifold.

THE VACUUM HOSE IS NOT REPLACEABLE!

If you need to replace the hose (mine was brittle and broke), you will need to buy a new intake manifold or retrofit the old one (which is what I did). It involves removing the manifold, pulling out the hose connection/rubber hole seal, plugging the open internal seam with epoxy putty, (and seal with RTV), then use a new hose and reassemble - it took me 7 hours total, which includes devising the solution.

I can provide details for anyone who wishes to perform the retrofit.
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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now the M113, was that only used 1999 onward?

and oh wow. that sounds complicated. but very nice posting. im sure it will come in handy with a lot of people.
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Old 07-08-2012, 09:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by buddha dean View Post
I can provide details for anyone who wishes to perform the retrofit.
How many miles on this engine?
Please provide your DIY.
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Old 07-09-2012, 07:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have 102,000 on the odometer. I got the car with 94,000 from Florida. It was not well taken care of, but the price was right.

The M113 E50 was used from 1999 until 2006 in many models. Based on the age and miles of my car, I imagine that the brittle vacuum hose will start happening to others.

A permanent solution other than using duct tape to block the hole requires removal of the manifold (I used foil duct tape to seal the vacuum leak for a few days until the gaskets came in - it worked great!).

A possible way to make the job much easier, is to put a "male to male" tubing connector to "splice" the old rubber connection inside the manifold to a new vacuum hose. I could not do this because I ruined it trying to "dig" it out trying to fix it prior to removing the manifold.

The DIY is as follows:

Materials;

- 2 Intake Manifold Gaskets
- EGR valve gasket
- Epoxy putty (make sure it is 300 degrees service temp or better)
- RTV silicone gasket maker
- Approximately 12" of vacuum hose (I will check which diameter worked best and repost)
- 30" long x 3/4" x 1" piece of wood
- Spray Carb Cleaner

1. Remove intake manifold (took me 1 hour including wrestling with the EGR setup)

2. Place manifold on a table or bench, bottom side up

3. Using needle nose pliers, a small pick set and a utility knife, remove the remainder of the rubber plug by pulling through the hole and slicing with the knife - I had to get little pieces at a time, cut them and pull it out in chunks

4. If you look into the hole you will see the nipple that the hose attaches to. Around and below the nipple is open to the manifold. This void has to be filled to stop the vacuum from leaking around the new hose.

5. Use the carb cleaner to thoroughly clean all oil and dirt residue from the area inside the manifold.

6. Insert the wooden stick into the throttle body and push it to the end such that it blocks the void from below (this is to stop the epoxy putty from being pushed into the manifold).

7. knead a small amount of putty (a small ball 3/4" in diameter or so), roll it into a "rope" and fee it into the hole.

8. Using various tools (a pencil, screwdriver, nail head...) pack the putty into the voids below and around the nipple. I had to repeat this step several times until the putty was even with the base of the nipple. Gently, but firmly pack the putty in all areas.

9. Remove the wood "putty" support

10. Using the RTV, fill in the area around the nipple, leaving space to fit the vacuum hose onto the nipple. I used a thin flat screwdriver to pack the RTV into the sides of the cavity - It is messy, but I tried to fill the remainder of the cavity to the opening, while still leaving room to push the hose in. This step is necessary because I was unable to completely seal the vacuum with the putty

11. Push the hose onto the nipple.

12. Re-install the manifold

What wasn't in the WIS instructions, was after re-connecting the fuel line, turn the ignition on to activate the fuel pump and press the schrader valve on the passenger front fuel rail to bleed the air from the system. BE CAREFUL as the fuel sprays out pretty violently.

I apologize for no photos, but I did not think this would be a major repair until I got into it!

Last edited by buddha dean; 07-09-2012 at 07:07 PM.
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Old 07-09-2012, 07:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buddha dean View Post
I have 102,000 on the odometer. I got the car with 94,000 from Florida. It was not well taken care of, but the price was right.

The M113 E50 was used from 1999 until 2006 in many models. Based on the age and miles of my car, I imagine that the brittle vacuum hose will start happening to others.
Thanks for the update. I've been monitoring the M113/112 on several of the BW forums and this is the first M113 with over 100K miles that has complained about this problem.

Feel free to take a look at the following:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...ater-than.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w209...s-greater.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w211...s-greater.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w215...s-greater.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...s-greater.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230...s-greater.html

Last edited by lynns; 07-11-2012 at 08:04 AM.
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks!

I will say that there was quite a bit of oil residue on the intake inside - I suspect it is from excessive blow-by. It does not consume oil however, and does not smoke (I use 0W-30 Mobil 1 based on the research done by "Bob is the Oil Guy").

Knock on wood, I have not had expensive repairs, but I have gone through the car and changed all typical problem spots:

Trans connector
parking lock connector
changed the trans fluid - which I had tested at Blackstone
Motor mounts and trans mount (I will post pics - they were BAD)
The entire front end - LCA, tie rods, center link, damper (all the boots were torn)
The center driveshaft bearing (and front flex disc) will be in the near future (this weekend), as it is starting to complain

The engine seems VERY strong though. I am surprised at the difference that the intake flaps make in the throttle response and power. (I noticed when they were disconnected).

The trans also seems to operate well, with the exception of the "rumble-strip" noise caused by the worn Torque Converter Lockup Valve - it is only repairable by replacing the valve body (or having a new TCM valve plunger installed in the existing one) - I haven't decided if I will replace the valve body yet.

Last edited by lynns; 07-11-2012 at 08:06 AM.
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I did have the valve cover leak (actually from the breather cover) passenger side, rear - easy repair with some black RTV sealant
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I did have the valve cover leak (actually from the breather cover) passenger side, rear - easy repair with some black RTV sealant
This is a known issue with age.
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Old 07-09-2012, 09:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The trans also seems to operate well, with the exception of the "RST" noise caused by the worn Torque Converter Lockup Valve - it is only repairable by replacing the valve body (or having a new TCM valve plunger installed in the existing one) - I haven't decided if I will replace the valve body yet.
What is a 722.6 trans RST?

We usually use RST = Roadster Soft Top.
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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This is a known issue with age.
That's what Albert (aam) usually say about other things too
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