ASR, ABS, Brake lights, Roll Bar Light all at once! - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 05:42 PM
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ASR, ABS, Brake lights, Roll Bar Light all at once!

Any ideas what this could be? I sure hope it's simple.
I had a right brake light out. With the car running and a block on the brake pedal I saw that it was a bad connection on the bulb. I didn't see any corrosion. I tried to bend the socket prong up a little with a peice of plastic and I saw a faint dull short. Then the brake light would not work at all. I looked at the fuses right in front of me in the trunk first and it really looked like the second one from the bottom was blown. I pulled it out to look and it was actually OK.
Somehow I knocked out the very bottom fuse and the car immediately died. I put it back in, started the car, now do not only both brake lights not work but the ASR, ABS and Roll Bar lights stay on. I tested them all and they don't work now either. Not sure about the roll bar. I have a hydraulic leak to fix on it but the light has never been on til now. The cruise control also quit working. Fuse 5 under the hood which says for brake lights, bulb control, cruise control, front roof light is not blown nor are any others blown there. The lights between the visors work if that's what they meant. All exterior lights work except the brake lights.
I'm not sure if the little short caused all of it or the bottom fuse in the trunk coming out while it was running because I didnt see the instrument panel til I restarted it. I also don't know at what point the other brake light quit working , whether it was when I shorted the other or when the fuse fell out.
Disconnecting the battery for about a minute did not help. I could try it longer.
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#2 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 06:41 PM
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Ouch that hurts, i feel your pain thats how things usually go for me. maybe knocking the fuse out threw some codes and they have gone into protection mode.Perhaps having the codes cleared would fix it. As for the brake light i would check the wiring for shorts, resistance test the wiring. Wish i could be more helpful, good luck with it.
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#3 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 06:54 PM
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I don't remember if it's possible to clear codes on a 95. I also never figured out a reader for a 95.
I have now disconnected the lights plug for that side in case there is a short, and the battery to see if it resets. I saw some threads that mention a brake switch problem for no brake lights with maybe one warning light but it's not quite the same symptoms.
Also, what it says those bottom 2 fuses are for doesn't seem like they would do this, not sure. I don't even know how it killed the engine. My luck it will be something completely unrelated to any of this.

Last edited by alchemy; 05-25-2012 at 06:59 PM.
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#4 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 06:59 PM
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I found a fuse chart for a MY98 SL but not a MY95. It shows fuse #10 (where ever that is) is for the brake lights, part of the instrument cluster, part of the dome lamp, cruise control and should be a 15 amp fuse. When I say part of, it means there are more fuses that protect part of that i.e. dome lamp is fuse 10 & 14. Instrument cluster is 10, 13, and 16. If it were me I'd take a volt meter, not ohm meter, and check the voltage across fuse 10. It should read zero.
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#5 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 07:03 PM
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It's late here now, won't be able to check til sunday. On mine it says fuse 5 for those things. I later found the instrument lights work if that's what it means by instrument panel.
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#6 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 07:07 PM
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Before that I just got through figuring out after a year why the roll bar and top did not work. It was out of fluid and there is a leak near the cylinders on the right side of the top compartment. The reason I didn't look there is some body shop guy wadded all those parts in the trunk on the right above the battery and crammed them behind the cover panel. Some terminals and wires were broken. I fixed those along time ago, I hope. I thought I was certain the top and roll bar problem was there. There was a 27 pin module there that mounts on the trunk hinge mount that I disconnected today because I noticed corrosion all over the contacts on both sides. I think someone told me once it was for the alarms. I checked everything I could think of and I could find nothing that didnt work after removing that. I did put it back on just in case it may have had an hour delayed reaction but that didn't change anything.
This picture is from my green 95, It's my silver 95 we are talking about and module number 3. Maybe someone can tell us for sure what this is. Again, I don't think it caused the problem because nothing changed when I took it off.
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#7 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 07:20 PM
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Before that I just got through figuring out after a year why the roll bar and top did not work. It was out of fluid and there is a leak near the cylinders on the right side of the top compartment.
at least theres a relatively easy and inexpensive fix for that, take it out and have tophydraulicsinc.com rebuild it.
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#8 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 07:25 PM
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Man do you know the quickest route to the 7th inner circle of Benz Hell ! At least you know what precipitated the problem. The blown fuses obviously are part of the clues. Dead shorts can create low voltage and cause error issues in CAN Bus cars. I'd go over every fuse again, you know the drill. Then scan and erase codes. Much of the memory is non volitile, so disconnecting the battery doesn't make any difference. Worst possible case is a roached module somewhere. Yikes

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#9 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 07:31 PM
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Just went down and tried it again after the battery had been disconected for a good while, I also looked to see if I could have hit the brake switch or anything with the block I used to hold the brake. Nothing there, just a panel and I wouldn't have hit anything that high up.

I just found out that the roll bar goes up or down with the button.

I did turn all the fuses but I'll probably do it again sunday.

Last edited by alchemy; 05-25-2012 at 07:49 PM.
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#10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by yamahadude9 View Post
at least theres a relatively easy and inexpensive fix for that, take it out and have tophydraulicsinc.com rebuild it.
I think it's just a line. Probably from that body shop moron. I had to fix 2 vacuum lines he broke also and my vacuum pump may not work now from constantly running. I have to remember how to lift the compartment manually first to see exactly where it is or put some more fluid in and have it pour out just to lift the compartment.

Last edited by alchemy; 05-25-2012 at 07:52 PM.
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