Cleaning Throttle Body - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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#1 (permalink) Old 04-18-2010, 08:41 AM
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Cleaning Throttle Body

Hello all. Our 300sl was bogging on acceleration (especially off idle) much of last summer, and it didn't change during the winter storage (surprise). Checked the vacuum lines which seem fine, cleaned the idle air solenoid which didn't change anything. Finally sprayed some throttle body cleaner (O2 sensor friendly) down the throat which seemed to really improve things. So the question is - is it worth going through the procedure to take the throttle body off and clean it properly, or would a few applications of cleaner suffice? I don't know if there are any air bleeds or small apertures down there or under the butterfly that need a proper cleaning. The tear down looks rather involved according to the DVD - don't really want to do it just for fun. Thanks.
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#2 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 12:28 AM
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Regardless if porting work is involved or not, to thoroughly clean a TB on higher mileage motors with significant carbon buildup, its best to first remove the unit plus also remove the throttle plate.

Personally, I prefer polishing the pieces carefully using Standard Abrasives' high speed cross-buffs either with a pneumatic or variable speed electric 1/4 inch Collet die grinder.

Standard Abrasives 260013 - Standard Abrasives Cross Buff Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com








Last edited by NEOKEN; 03-13-2014 at 09:05 AM.
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#3 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 06:35 AM
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Nice polishing there...

I always just use some kind of alcohol or light solvent I have lying around, BUT mine has never looked as bad as that black one. I have just wiped them off and they are as good as new.

If removed, check wiring!

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#4 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by NEOKEN View Post
Regardless if porting work is involved or not, to thoroughly clean a TB on higher mileage motors with significant carbon buildup, its best to first remove the unit plus also remove the throttle plate.

Personally, I prefer polishing the pieces carefully using Standard Abrasives' high speed cross-buffs either with a pneumatic or variable speed electric 1/4 inch Collet die grinder.

Standard Abrasives 260013 - Standard Abrasives Cross Buff Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com








Damn Ken ... nice job. Can you do mine too? lol

Last edited by NEOKEN; 03-13-2014 at 09:05 AM. Reason: correction
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#5 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 03:36 PM
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Mine wasn't so dirty. I took the body out and sprayed the sooty parts with a carb cleaner, and wiped with paper towel. A few minutes is all it took.

A side warning: when removing the body, there's a thin gasket. Mine broke into 5 pieces. If yours does the same thing, remember to FIND all pieces, or you'll end up with some in your intake manifold, and they might get sucked up into the engine.

Another thing: Get the real gasket, and don't use silicone or cork. There is negative pressure inside, so if you use silicone, it could deteriorate and get sucked in.

Oh, and one more thing. When I did this, the rubber connector was hard and shrunken. It didn't have a nice seal against the MAF sensor. So replace the connector to the MAF sensor if yours is hard.

John
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#6 (permalink) Old 04-21-2010, 12:55 AM
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Mine wasn't so dirty. I took the body out and sprayed the sooty parts with a carb cleaner, and wiped with paper towel. A few minutes is all it took.

A side warning: when removing the body, there's a thin gasket. Mine broke into 5 pieces. If yours does the same thing, remember to FIND all pieces, or you'll end up with some in your intake manifold, and they might get sucked up into the engine.

Another thing: Get the real gasket, and don't use silicone or cork. There is negative pressure inside, so if you use silicone, it could deteriorate and get sucked in.

Oh, and one more thing. When I did this, the rubber connector was hard and shrunken. It didn't have a nice seal against the MAF sensor. So replace the connector to the MAF sensor if yours is hard.

John
I broke one of my gaskets, a new is about $2 at MB.

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#7 (permalink) Old 04-21-2010, 09:36 AM
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I broke one of my gaskets, a new is about $2 at MB.
What is the MB p/n for the gasket?
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#8 (permalink) Old 04-21-2010, 12:20 PM
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What is the MB p/n for the gasket?
I don't know about your car; maybe someone does. But, you could go here:

epc.startekinfo.com

It's a mercedes site, and signup is free for private users. There, you'll get all the same parts info that the dealer has at the parts counter. Pictures and part numbers galore. The car with all its specific engine variants might make your part number different, so you'll have to put in the correct car. You could also type in your VIN number.

John
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#9 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 12:49 AM
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What is the MB p/n for the gasket?
Sorry, can't remember, but they found it in 1 min, so it cannot be a "strange" article...

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#10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2010, 10:49 PM
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Btw, be careful when you insert the MAF onto the Actuator. On my car, if I follow the notches on the actuator, the rubber gasket/hose/clamps, and the MAF, the end result is interference between the lower clamp and the travel of the actuator spring cap on the exterior.

Just make sure that when you put every thing together, move the actuator through its entire range and verify that nothing is interfering.

John
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