I just replaced all 12 rebuilt hydraulic cylinders only to still find a slight leak coming from the center overhead light unit. I removed the top hydraulic cover and verified that all of the hydraulic lines were connected tightly and properly to the hydraulic cylinders. I stuffed some paper towels under various points and it appears that there is a slight leak coming from the center distributor (A 129 800 00 22). I took out the lines and cleaned them as well as the connection port on the distributor. Still leaks a bit. Just enough to keep a nagging drip from the overhead light unit. Any suggestions? I know I can't buy new clips for the lines and there does not appear to be any damage to the distributor itself or the hydraulic lines. Is there a product that I can/should apply to the lines before reconnecting them to the distributor that might tighten the connection?
Here is the culprit. The ends of the hydraulic lines appear different. One end has what appears to be a copper coating but this is only on one end of one of the lines. Do I just need a new line or is there a product that I should apply before connecting the line to the distributor (akin to plumber's tape to joining pipes)?
I have often used Teflon tape to stop minor leaks (Never on brake lines though).
It wouldn't do any harm to wrap a few turns around the olive/flange and re-tighten.
If the OEM parts are expensive you could get one made up by a workshop that fabricates brake lines.
I stuffed some paper towels under various points and it appears that there is a slight leak coming from the center distributor (A 129 800 00 22).
A friend's '96 SL320 developed a leak in this same area. Replacing the distributor was the fix. Wrapping teflon tape on the lines before inserting them seems like a worthwhile idea to me.
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If Teflon tape doesn't work, I'll try epoxy (or Superglue) on the outside before replacing the whole distributor. As you have just rebuilt your hydraulic cylinders, the system should be good for a long time and will not need to be taken apart again.
Dr. Jim, what would a Cardiologist use to plug leaky plumbing?
Superglue???
Lynn,
We have a saying that all bleeding eventually stops and I suppose that it would apply here too as I slowly drip away all of my hydraulic fluid. I'm going to try the teflon tape route first. I would like to drop the center overhead console (the one that holds the mirror) so I can give it all a good cleaning but it won't budge even after I removed the 2 retaining screws behind the courtesy lights. It already has a crack in it that I would like to repair before it disintegrates. I regret not keeping my old overhead console for parts when it shorted out and had to be replaced with this one ($600). Is there another hidden screw that holds it in place? I don't know how much force to apply and where to apply it.
As for the superglue, I wonder if it would stand up to the hydraulic pressure?
Thanks.
Jim
You will be applying it (superglue or epoxy) on the outside which is not under pressure, just to stop the 'drip' as you only have a very 'slight leak' (just pack it with epoxy). And you will be doing that as the last resort before replacing the whole thing.
You will be applying it (superglue or epoxy) on the outside which is not under pressure, just to stop the 'drip' as you only have a very 'slight leak' (just pack it with epoxy). And you will be doing that as the last resort before replacing the whole thing.
Re: glues:- My weapon of choice these days is a hot glue gun, It's worked where epoxy and SuperGlue didn't
I like the idea of the hot glue gun. I tried the teflon tape on the whole flange and just on the end of the line distal to the flange. Neither created a dry seal. I then tried a small dab of "MB Universal Adhesive" left over from replacing the soft top last weekend and it didn't seal either. I finally went back to the teflon tape and put things back together since it was the best of the failed seals and I need to drive the car tomorrow. Perhaps I'll get a chance at the hot glue this week or maybe just break down a get a new distributor so I don't end up with an occasional drip on me or my wife. I wonder if the glue will stick effectively and if it will hinder my disassembly if I decide to go ahead with the new part down the road.
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Pictures of the problem 
Here is the culprit. The ends of the hydraulic lines appear different. One end has what appears to be a copper coating but this is only on one end of one of the lines. Do I just need a new line or is there a product that I should apply before connecting the line to the distributor (akin to plumber's tape to joining pipes)?
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