Seals for top lock cylinders, merged with Nailed

[GUSMB]

Removed the cylinders maneuvering the lid aswell, located in the trunk:


Same construction, only longer:


Apart:


Time to visit Momentum to see if they have the seals.

More pictures:
Takhydraulik 080821

[GUSMB]

Monday the seals arrived, they were ,uch harder then the previous I used, more like the original ones. Outer dimensions is to wide, was not able to press them in place. A temporary lathe made from a dremel and a drill:


Machined it down to 13 mm:


Before/After:




New/Original:



In place:


Mounted:

[GUSMB]

Mounted all four cylinders, tested and found two other small ones pouring out oil. Took one of them out of the car, interesting mounting:


The Top of it is a screw on plug with two small holes in it, almost impossible to unscrew. Both pieces in alumiunium and also glued/locked.
After a while I realised I had destroyed it, then used a lot more force to get it apart to se how it was constructed. Result, damaged axel and destroyed screw-on top:


Price is just above $600 in Sweden, anyone knows of a used one?
Part no is 1248000272, aparently also in CE-convertible.

Sent Dennis a PM about fixing the other one, no reply yet.

[morriswu]

Originally Posted by GUSMB

The Top of it is a screw on plug with two small holes in it, almost impossible to unscrew. Both pieces in alumiunium and also glued/locked.
After a while I realised I had destroyed it, then used a lot more force to get it apart to se how it was constructed. Result, damaged axel and destroyed screw-on top

Price is just above $600 in Sweden, anyone knows of a used one?
Part no is 1248000272, aparently also in CE-convertible.

Sent Dennis a PM about fixing the other one, no reply yet.

Hi GUSMB,
You need either the makeshift tool or needle nose pliers plus heat as in the attached pictures.

good luck,
morris

[GUSMB]

Originally Posted by morriswu

Hi GUSMB,
You need the tool as attached pictures.

good luck,
morris

Thank you, exactly what I was thinking of constructing this weekend.

Any tips on how getting the top of the axel off without damaging the axel?

Still need to find a new Cylinder since I broke it.

[morriswu]

Originally Posted by GUSMB

Thank you, exactly what I was thinking of constructing this weekend.

Any tips on how getting the top of the axel off without damaging the axel?

Still need to find a new Cylinder since I broke it.

Hi GUSMB,
Do you mean the square block screwed on the top of the rod?
You have to heat up the thread portion with a cigratte lighter to melt out the glue. Also clamp the rod carefully with some thick cloth or rubber between for protection.
You will meet the same difficulty in dealing with the 2 big cylinders.
I would try to find some pictures for you.
good luck,
morris

[GUSMB]

No problem then familiar with the process.

Just thought if there was a better idea, but will try using lots of cloth.

[GUSMB]

Made it easy for me, took all the cars out of the garage and simply took the next one...:


Got all winter to find a new cylinder and module.

[ahmorris]

Originally Posted by w8n4ya

what should I use to cap the hydraulic lines while the cylinders are in for repair? My car is my everyday driver, so the objective is to not have the mineral oil leaking all over.

I had leaking cyclinders and was going to tackle it, but as you it's my daily driver hence decided to have it fixed when on vacation instead. I had the same question on capping the lines and most people said no need to do if one drains the fluid from the reservoir. It's not under pressure hence taping line ends should stop minor leaks.

Regards

Alan

[GUSMB]

Originally Posted by ahmorris

I had leaking cyclinders and was going to tackle it, but as you it's my daily driver hence decided to have it fixed when on vacation instead. I had the same question on capping the lines and most people said no need to do if one drains the fluid from the reservoir. It's not under pressure hence taping line ends should stop minor leaks.

Regards

Alan

I did the same, if cylinders are leaking you already have a fair amount of oil everywhere the top goes. Probably the system would have "drained" itself from the leak, just taped the ends until repair.