Vehicle: 2000 Obsidian Black Metallic Mercedes SL 320 V6
Location: Northern Italy near Milan
Posts: 1,796
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunnybay
Is the cover ahead or behind the rear wheel? Do I need to disconnect the battery to do this?
Thanks!!
Sunnybay when you remove the fuel filter remember to put clamps on the fuel lines or you will have a nice petrol shower (seen it live with my eyes on a Mercedes mechanic that was working on my CL 500 and forgot to clamp the lines).
Cheers.
__________________
I drive like I stole . . . YOURS
Here's the lastest. Yesterday it was 56 when I drove to work, and 93 when it was time to go home. I went out to my car a couple times during the day and it started right up. Also started fine when it was time to go home. I made a quick stop on the way home to pick something up, and it didn't want to start. I pumped the gas, and held it to the floor and it did start, as long as I kept the rmp's at about 3000 for a few seconds. I made one more quick stop 15 minutes later, and it started right up. I already changed the crank position sensor, so that's not it. Puzzling.
It might be worth considering the fuel rail temperature sensor. (if there is one... I'm working from memory) This helps the ECU compensate for hot starting conditions. I've heard of some Bosch LE Jetronic systems (in the early '90's, not necessarily Mercedes installations ) have a similar problem.
Here I go again. Today, it's 82 degrees and it won't start.
The temp on the instrument panel says 92, but it's not that hot. It won't stay running. I can start it and rev it up quick and it dies, then I quickly shut the key of and back on and rev it again it will keep running. I can do this continually to keep it running, but it won't stay running on its own. Puzzling and frustrating. I am parked on a hot asphalt lot, black car, black top, black interior. Is there something electronic that can't take the heat?
A few weeks ago, before this problem started I had some hail damage repairs done and they stripped the insulation from the underside of the hood. Could this be changing anything? I didn't have the problem before the hail repairs, but it was never very warm. I bought the car last fall, so this spring is the first warm weather I've had.
I suggest getting yourself a copy of the R129 Tech DVD or the Mercedes WIS software. Both have a diagnostic manual for your car's fuel injection and ignition systems that may help you determine the cause of your problem. While you are waiting for that to be delivered I would post your problem in the "Tech Help" forum over at MercedesShop - Mercedes Benz Parts and Technical Information. There are many professional auto technicians on that forum and you are more likely to get help with your problem there than here.
Thanks to everyone for the help. I do think I should get a tech dvd. I bought one on e-bay, but it was a scam.
I did get the car started. I waited about a half hour, same story. I opened the hood, removed the cover from the front of the air cleaner, and the air cleaner. The top of the engine was very hot. 20 minutes later, when it was a little cooler, it started right up.
Could the insulation on the bottom side of the hood insulate the electronic components from the heat generated on the black hood from the sun? When it was aired out and cooled down, it started right up. Could there be a temp sensor near the top of the engine that is being effected by ambient temp? Is there a vacuum component that could lock up from heat?
Could the insulation on the bottom side of the hood insulate the electronic components from the heat generated on the black hood from the sun?
The hood pad is for sound insulation.
They do not cost much and can be DIY fitted very easily so it would be worth replacing anyway.
If it was related to your problem that would be a bonus.
I know the pad is for sound insulation, but I noticed another thing. The hood "skin" is very flimsy without the pad. When I go to a car wash, the fan from the dry cycle makes the hood shake and buckle up and down, "oil-canning".
The top of the engine was very hot when it was not running, just from sitting there on a hot day. When I left the hood open, and removed the air cleaner and the other cover for a short time, it felt cooler, and the car started right up.
This weekend I will try using a heat gun on some of the electronics to see if I can make it fail.
Check the air temp sensor, and hose.
Remove left hose they usually brake from the heat.
It is running from the air filter box to the left side by the radiator.
In there is the sensor.
Regards.
aam.
Sunny, I have had this problem occasionally with my 90 500SL My indy suggested a fuel additive called REDLINE, I put in two cans in a full tank and presto no prob. Then about 6months later same starting prob, put in the REDLINE and it starts NP regardless of high temps. You could try this it may work for you.
Linear Mode
