I have looked at almost all the threads regarding the hydraulics and top problems, but have something I haven't seen on here.
My '90 300SL has been sat for about 2 years with the Hard top on and the soft top folded away. The Hard top "popped" off no problem, but when trying to raise the soft top, it gets stuck after about 2 feet. Turning the key off means that I can then manually raise the soft top (with no snagging and free and easy movement) and when roughly in the right spot, turn the ignition back on and then it will latch down front and back and all is good...
When trying to lower the soft top, the rear pops open, but the cover plate does not and neither do the front latches...
There is no visible sign of any fluid leakage from any of the cylinders and the reservoir is full.
My roll bar is also not raising despite the fact that the electronic stops are pulled back when the switch is pressed.
Is there likely some connection between the two??
I am fairly sure it is a hydraulic problem and not an electrical one, but with no evidence of any leaks...
Is there an easy way to bleed the hydraulic system as perhaps there is air in it??
I'm pretty confused, so any thoughts would be welcomed.
Andrew, if you have read all of the Soft top threads, have you read the fault codes associated with soft top issues with the flashing soft top switch mounted on the centre console? if so what error codes are indicated on your vehicle?
Usually if the hydraulic reservoir under the spare wheel is up to level and no sign of any leaks, hydraulics are normally not the issue.
Run the soft top cycle again and when it fails, count the flashes from the soft top switch on the centre console and check against the DTC codes in the soft top stickys.
I don't have too much experience with soft top issues so please be patient until a softop expert is able to comment.
Thanks Redliner. Have tried counting the diagnostic flashes from the switch when trying to lower the roof (when the cover doesn't open and neither do the windshield latches). If I keep the button held on, it starts to flash but doesn't stop... it flashed over 100 times...
So I tried again and this time let the switch go as soon as the roof stopped and the light stopped as soon as I had let it go...
My '90 300SL has been sat for about 2 years with the Hard top on and the soft top folded away. There is no visible sign of any fluid leakage from any of the cylinders and the reservoir is full.
My roll bar is also not raising despite the fact that the electronic stops are pulled back when the switch is pressed.
Is there likely some connection between the two??
Is there an easy way to bleed the hydraulic system as perhaps there is air in it??
Andrew, yes, there is an easy way to renew the hydraulic fluid but I don't think that this is your problem and the system purges itself of any air that might get in it.
You mentioned that the car sat for two years. Is there a possibility that the battery could be low even after a recharge? You may want to try your top with the car outside and the engine running.
You didn't mention anything about your side windows. Are they both in the full down position when you are trying to raise or lower? They must be down.
Thanks for your response - in answer to your questions, the car has a new battery and the windows work fine - both when using the window controller and the roof switch. They lower all the way down when I try and lower the roof (which never gets further than releasng the two rear latches). And when I close the roof after all the latches have clamped down, the windows close fully as well.
I have been reading and re-reading the Ultimate thread... next going to try diagnostics with the LED... when I get one... finding the errors and re-setting... I'm hoping that will do the trick otherwise it's another 10 days before my local dealer has a spare few minutes to look at the car....
Thanks for your response - in answer to your questions, the car has a new battery and the windows work fine - both when using the window controller and the roof switch. They lower all the way down when I try and lower the roof (which never gets further than releasng the two rear latches). And when I close the roof after all the latches have clamped down, the windows close fully as well.
I have been reading and re-reading the Ultimate thread... next going to try diagnostics with the LED... when I get one... finding the errors and re-setting... I'm hoping that will do the trick otherwise it's another 10 days before my local dealer has a spare few minutes to look at the car....
Ck your diagn. socket if there is an led build in.
Some do.
Clear codes and try again it may work.
Regards.
aam.
No need for an LED to read top codes on a '90 to '93 car because for these years the top control switch is wired in parallel with the diagnostic socket.
If there is an LED at the diagnostic socket it is wired in parallel with socket #3 and will only show codes for the CIS fuel injection controller.
Any ideas as to where I can find this limit switch sensor??
Thanks in advance.
Andrew, Since you live in Dallas may I suggest that you purchase a 'STAR Service Manual on DVD' for your R129. This is essential for the DIY'er or you can use 'STAR TekInfo'.
Andrew, Since you live in Dallas may I suggest that you purchase a 'STAR Service Manual on DVD' for your R129. This is essential for the DIY'er or you can use 'STAR TekInfo'.
Note: If you are unable to open any of the hot links that I have sent you I believe it is because you are using Firefox. Try Internet Explorer.
Thanks lynn I thought something was wrong with my computer.
Firefox was closing on and off, in the middle of opening threads til it got on my nerves
and I started using explorer.
Regards.
aam.
Linear Mode
