Hi guys, i have a quick question regarding the belt tensioner replacement on my 1991 500sl.
First of all, the tensioner squeals like a pig, so i am planing to replace it. I have seen online that i could either buy the tensioner pulley or the entire tensioner assembly. Which would you recommend i get? The pulley it's self is of course the cheaper rout but will it include the bearing or do i have to buy the entire assembly?
I would buy just the PULLEY!!!! The only time that I would replace the entire thing is when the spring is so weak that the belt slips. Just get the PULLEY!!!! You'll be fine!!!!
Thanks drags, i appreciate your input. I will just purchase the pulley.
I was looking on Autohausaz.com. Pulley = $23.90 and tensioner assembly = $131.95. I will probably get the belt too while i am at it: $31.13 Select Part to View
Last edited by Funkytuqe : 02-29-2008 at 08:18 AM.
Thanks drags, i appreciate your input. I will just purchase the pulley.
I was looking on Autohausaz.com. Pulley = $23.90 and tensioner assembly = $131.95. I will probably get the belt too while i am at it: $31.13 Select Part to View
You have a '91 with the original tensioner...those things wear out you know...
If it were me and there was only a $100 difference, I would replace the whole thing. The labor is going to be about the same to just replace the pulley, and then you know you don't have to revisit it later and pay twice to have the same work done over again.
Again, Just replace the PULLEY, If the BELT is worn or cracked replace it also. Replacing the whole tentioner would be recommended if the spring inside it was weak or broken!!!! ANYONE can change the pulley in 5min. or less, The whole thing will take longer, And just think: saving the $100 bucks will ALMOST pay for a couple of tanks of GAS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Again, Just replace the PULLEY, If the BELT is worn or cracked replace it also. Replacing the whole tentioner would be recommended if the spring inside it was weak or broken!!!! ANYONE can change the pulley in 5min. or less, The whole thing will take longer, And just think: saving the $100 bucks will ALMOST pay for a couple of tanks of GAS!!!!!!!!!!!!
I second that.
If it is not broken why fix.
Don't look for trouble.
When you know.
That trouble is looking for you.
Regards.
aam.
PS. Gas, is going up again.
drags, I like the way you put it. (ALMOST).................
Vehicle: 1992 500 SL ; 2001 BMW 525i Sport, 1998 Harley Road King
Location: Carlsbad, CA
Posts: 287
Well, I guess I am too late to help, but I will put in my two cents anyway. BIG mistake to just buy the pulley on an original 1991 SL!!! You took the advice from someone with a 2000 SL, NINE YEARS NEWER. Second, there is no "spring" inside the tensioner. It is molded rubber! Yes, the pulley is probably squealing like a pig, but trust me (please note the year of my car!), the entire tensioner is next, if not already toast. The reason the tensioner goes bad is the rubber finally gets hard, cracks and separates from the internal walls of the assembly. Your rubber might be getting there after 18 years, do ya think?
Replace the entire assembly and be done with it for the life of your baby!
__________________
Mike
When you turn your car on, does it return the favor?
Well, I guess I am too late to help, but I will put in my two cents anyway. BIG mistake to just buy the pulley on an original 1991 SL!!! You took the advice from someone with a 2000 SL, NINE YEARS NEWER. Second, there is no "spring" inside the tensioner. It is molded rubber! Yes, the pulley is probably squealing like a pig, but trust me (please note the year of my car!), the entire tensioner is next, if not already toast. The reason the tensioner goes bad is the rubber finally gets hard, cracks and separates from the internal walls of the assembly. Your rubber might be getting there after 18 years, do ya think?
Replace the entire assembly and be done with it for the life of your baby!
Ya, I know... I dunno why he doesn't wanna do it, it's only $100 more, and like I said before, those things wear out. Why not just knock it out while you're in there anyway?
This is how people get worn down with maintaining an older car, because they never want to do anything proactively, instead only fixing things when they break. When you start down that path, you find yourself running on the car's schedule instead of the car running on your schedule.
I mean it's common sense, really. If you have to do an oil-pan gasket, then replace the sending unit while you're in there. If you have to replace a pulley, then replace the belts and the tensioner while you're at it. If you need one O2 sensor, replace all of them. If you're replacing one bushing, then replace the rest of them at the same time.
When you get to this type of stuff that will eventually fail anyway, just get it out of the way now so you won't have to make a special trip to the shop to deal with it later. It seems more expensive at first, but in the long run you actually save a lot of money since you don't have to pay to duplicate labor on a task that could have been done while they were already doing something else that's related to it. If you handle it this way, you will avoid unscheduled shop visits as well as many headaches.
You took the advice from someone with a 2000 SL, NINE YEARS NEWER. Second, there is no "spring" inside the tensioner. It is molded rubber! Yes, the pulley is probably squealing like a pig, but trust me (please note the year of my car!), the entire tensioner is next, if not already toast. The reason the tensioner goes bad is the rubber finally gets hard, cracks and separates from the internal walls of the assembly. Your rubber might be getting there after 18 years, do ya think?
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