door panel removal / door check strap installation
Notes and pictures from door panel removal and door check installation.
Read all the past posts and watched the videos from classic-roadster.de then attempted to remove the panel. First thing I did was break the triangular trim piece - great start!!! See previous thread for details (and my displeasure at all members who have previously done this work and not provided others with helpful hints and / or pictures!!!).
Removed all screws like the removal list says. The SRS airbag logo cover should be pryed out from the bottom edge as it has a cord type piece attached at the top that keeps it from coming loose even when it is popped out and this gets in your way if you try to pry out from the top edge. (Would've been helpful to have been told that beforehand, wouldn't it?). I slowly worked around the panel starting at the back lock area, working down and around to the front hinge / mirror area. Once all the mushroom style connectors are all loose, the top edge can be pulled free. It takes some force, with the window rolled down, grab the top edge with your fingers of both hands and pull sharply.
A special note on the mushroom connectors - I have read some wierd instructions about pulling it forwards or backwards, etc in different order but in the end I just pryed out. I used a very stiff (thick bladed) bread knife. I have read of some guys making their own spatula-putty knife looking device like the one on the videos but I found this worked well. The key is to feel around with the tool and find each connector and pry carefully while the tool is close to the connector.
Once the door panel is loose, it is held on by three things - the light wire at the bottom of the door, the door handle cable, and the seat adjustment controller cable. Unplug the light, unplug the seat, and disengage the door handle cable. The door handle cable has a small black plastic panel cover that just snaps out. The cable has a peach colored barrel shaped thumbscrew that I adjusted all the way in, slipped the cable through a slit in the housing, and pulled the chrome hook out of its plastic clip. Then the panel is free.
Notice the inside picture of the door panel - two of the plastic pieces with slots that are glued to the inside of the door panel came off (separated from the back of the panel) and stayed with the door instead of coming off with the panel. Look closely and you will see the 8 mushroom head connectors in their slotted housings. The direction of the slots are in three different directions - 4 of the slots are open to the left, 1 is open towards the top, and 3 are open to the right. How in he** are you supposed to manipulate the panel off by moving it in three different directions at the same time????? Anyway, I epoxied the 2 pieces back into place and let them dry while I did the work. Put the mushrooms back into their clips and its ready to go back on.
Door check installation is straight forward - just remove the clip on the bottom of the hinge pin, remove the pin, and remove the 3 hex head bolts. Note: I had trouble aligning the new piece. Initially installed the pin first and then tried the bolts. Didn't work well and door squeeked and creaked afterwards. I put a small amount of grease on the mounting tabs where the bolts pull them up against the inside of the door. Reinstalled with the bolts first and pin last. Had to drive the pin into place but it worked well and quiet as new. Be careful, there is a small grey thrust washer on the bottom side of the strap. See photo.
Hopefully this will help the next poor sucker that tries this job. I don't know why mine seemed so difficult when other posts make these things seem so easy, maybe the '99 and up are different from older models, don't know... maybe I'm not as good as I think I am?
My final question is, after all is said and done would you have preferred to pay an INDY $225.00 for the labor and a total price of $278.00 for both doors?
Yes, I read all the pertinent posts, but they all say "pry off top clip with wedge tool" or something to that affect. I think my white plastic retainer in my door is extremely tight and won't let go of the tab like it should.
I will try double-sided tape for a fix.
I noticed the wrench in the tool kit (for the top) has an open end wrench that looks about right to try as a door panel removal tool or to straddle the tab on the triangle and pry with.
It is better to save the money DIY rather than pay the labor rates, for sure.
need to replace door stop on '96 SL320. Any assistance is appreciated for a procedure of the removal of the panel. If pictures are available, it would be a bonus. thanks
EDIT: The topic has bee covered many times before.
Seek and ye shall find
RedLiner
Last edited by RedLiner : 05-18-2008 at 01:46 AM.
Reason: Topic merged with existing thread
I appreciate the advice given. I have removed the top triangle piece and the screws in the map box, however, i have not figured out how to remove the small panel surrounding the door opener handle or the around the seat controls. My SL320 is a '96 that has the vinyl or leather pieces instead of wood. Thanks again for any help.
I appreciate the advice given. I have removed the top triangle piece and the screws in the map box, however, i have not figured out how to remove the small panel surrounding the door opener handle or the around the seat controls. My SL320 is a '96 that has the vinyl or leather pieces instead of wood. Thanks again for any help.
SUCCESS. '96 SL320 turns out to simpler to remove due to the fact that seat controls and door opener stay attached to the panel. Once panel is loosen then the door handle cable can be unhooked and the seat controls disconnected. Thanks for all the help.
Lone Star, do you remember when you had your trim off, how the wooden strip was attached to door trim, I can't quite make it out from the picture. Mine has lifted a little at the front bottom corner and I want to see if I can do anything to fix it?
door panel removal / door check strap installation 
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