We have discussed this at length and determined you can use whatever you want but if you want to follow what M-B has designed to work with the system you will use M-B p/n 00098910310. Febi-Bilstein 02615 was determined to be the same mineral oil as the M-B oil and it saves you money. So I say buy whatever suits you fancy. I chose Febi-Bilstein 02615 and have had NO problems.
Please keep in mind M-B doesn't suggest a change of this fluid at any point in there maintenance schedule. But if you were to look at several of the old oils that have come out of cars, that have needed replacement seals, you would see black oil, just like the color of the seals.
The only reason I wrote the DIY was as a proactive suggestion that IMHO just makes sense.
I was just on the phone with one of our forum members last night and he updated me on his current testing of the replacement seals that match the compound that M-B uses. After much discussion with his conterparts in the engineering business he too was looking for a different seal compound as well as other ways to approach the problem. This guy is great, he went to a M-B junk yard and went as far as to buy each of the cylinders, various seal componds, etc. and determined, thru reverse engineering (this is his profession) that M-B had it right the first time. So if we have what we have, approximately 8-10 years on the front 2 cylinder seals, probably due to heat, and and we have not had that many report the replacement of ALL of the remaining 10 cylinders as yet. But mostly the are MB90-95. If you plan on keeping you car it would be wise to think proactively and buy a complete set of 12 cylinders worth of seals with a little mark up for postage and handling. Then you would be good to go on any DIY cylinder, less maybe the roll bar. And that is still in question.
Believe me when I tell you that it has not been easy to find the correct seals. And they need to be bought in a bulk numbers of 500 each in order to really save.
Yes, some people use seals that they pull from there bicycle pumps, etc. But I would prefer to use the correct size and compound for another 10 years if I'm going to go through thru all of DIY laborl. BTW, a M-B Dealer would charge you more than the car is worth to replace ALL your cylinders, not rebuilt, for about $12K vs. $150-$200 for a complete set of seals for the DIY'er.
Guys and Lynn.
Believe me I wanted to use original seals.
But their is none.
I could also have send the cylinders to Mr. Filken but I don't like to leave the system open for an extended period of time, and I am the type that I want it fixed know.
So I did what was a try and error.
As you all know I waited a long time before I reported to the forum.
I wanted to make sure it works.
I also found out that a lot of members from other countries had the need
and looking for the seals only.
That need made me do the report.
It is unprofessional but hey, it works.
On my line of business, yes I am a professional, I would sell the whole unit period.
When you do a job it comes with a guarantee of parts and labor.
Putting in seals is not going to cut it, I am out for profit.
The same thing with other things like modules, computers, etc, can be a resistor, a fuse, or a relay etc, that went bad, so are you going to replace the parts for a dollar or the whole module?
People like to see parts replaced............
Go to a doctor, if he doesn't let you seat and wait, and he doesn't give you a prescription you think he is no dam good.
Many members are complaining about ignition and other switches going bad,
the only thing wrong many times is cleaning, now if you are in business are you guys going to clean or replace?
Fact, Mercedes hydraulic fluid Part#000989910310 is not at all like brake fluid which is hygroscopic. The Mercedes hydraulic fluid is nothing more than Mineral oil which is not hygroscopic or does not attract moisture. Hydraulic fluids are a large group of fluids. I believe when one mentions hydraulic fluid we automatically
think of brake fluid. If it were like brake fluid it would destroy our seats and painted objects ect.
Brake fluid is a subtype of hydraulic fluid with high boiling point and low freezing point. It is hygroscopic, so that it will absorb water which could otherwise cause corrosion of brake system components.
From Wikpedia
Mechanical and industrial
Mineral oil is used in a variety of industrial/mechanical capacities as a non-conductive lubricant. Refined mineral oil is used as transformer oil. Electric space heaters sometimes use it as a heat transfer oil, and it can be used generically as a coolant in electric components as it does not conduct electricity.
Because it does not absorb water from the air, mineral oil can be used as an automotive, aviation, and bicycle brake fluid.
Used as a Preservative
Since it does not absorb atmospheric moisture, mineral oil is useful as a protective coating or bath for water-sensitive materials. Mineral oil is also often used as a coating on metal tools and weapons, knives in particular, as a way to inhibit oxidation.
Last but not least, I would change the hydraulic fluid at least once a year due to the small particulates in the oil from use. Mercedes Benz of Ft. Lauderdale has the OEM Part#000989910310 hydraulic fluid for $11.31 plus shipping.
Ron,
I do not agree with your attempt to suggest that the mineral oil used in the soft top system is not hydroscopic. It certainly is, but not because it has the same chemistry as brake fluid. If you check the MSDS for the Bilstein approved fluid you will note that it is not pure mineral oil at all but contains additives. Some of those additives are emulsifiers etc. similar to what is added in motor oil.
Before you reply with more opinions and definitions, please take some sample fluid, add water and shake. If it looks cloudy, congratulations, you have a mixture of mineral oil and water. Pure mineral oil and water would show two distinct layers and will not mix.
Old oil taken from a high time vehicle is frequently cloudy as has been reported elsewhere.
It is undeniable that water vapor enters the system continuosly through the reservoir and if allowed to stay in the liquid state (condensed) will rust stuff in spite of the oil being present.
Finally, I would remind others that citing the Mercedes no change rule can't trump my experiment.
Guys lets not get in to a pissing contest.
Replace the fluid after a few years like everything ells,
it is not going to brake the bank.
I always have two extra liter cans in my storage.
Same oil for is for the hydraulic suspension and the top.
It is cheap insurance, you do no harm by replacing fluids,
even if is not needed.
Does anyone know where to buy Febi 02615 off the shelf in Vancouver? BC? Canada?
Since I have been on this forum I have yet to hear of anyone finding Febi 02615 on the shelf in the US or Canada. You will need to order it from your local MB Dealer at a premium if you want it off the shelf.
What type of no-leak product did you use, and how much did you add to the system?
Regards,
BOB
Welcome to thr R129 forum!
Bob, please know that using ANY 'No Leak' product is just a stopgap and is not a true resolution to a hydraulic cylinder seal problem but if you want to no more please read http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...lic-fliud.html
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$7.30/Liter x2+US ship = $21.94 total.
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