For God's sake, my M113 has larger intake cowles.
What was Mercedes thinking when they designed the M120?
Come to think of it, maybe the M113's intake cowels can be used as part of the upgrade.
They measure approxiamtely 3.25" in diameter and I'm almost certain they'll clear the block.
My 3.0 liter Ford Taurus had a bigger air cleaner. I believe it was just down to space available. There really isn't much room available. Whats better an air cleaner under the hood with lots of room to breath hot air or cold air coming in through an orifice.
These boxes have 76mm inside diameters, so they should work fine. (I've contacted the seller and confirmed the dimentions)
I just found the pic's when I posted my SL600 vs 911 vid on myspace when I did the search SL600 vs. This dudes car showed up also. Went to his pics and got this.
I really want what he has or any thing like it. If the one you are posting would work I am IN.
Also DiD you notice the N2O??? Wet shot, Which is the best in my opinion. Wetter the better.
P.S. I always think a tune will help even with NO modification.
I strongly advise anyone considering doing this type of upgrade to do a baseline AND post-upgrade dyno.
You will need both dyno's in order to get your A/F's back to what they were prior to the upgrade. Without a baseline dyno your tuner will not know how to get your car's tune back to factory spec.
I strongly advise anyone considering doing this type of upgrade to do a baseline AND post-upgrade dyno.
You will need both dyno's in order to get your A/F's back to what they were prior to the upgrade. Without a baseline dyno your tuner will not know how to get your car's tune back to factory spec.
I tend to disagree. The cars O2 sensors will automatically make these AF adjustment for you. A before and after dyno will be useful to access the performance gains, and I do think there will be performance gains especially when these are ducted to cold but how much is anyone's guess.
When I ran at the track last week I opened the hood and grabbed the filters and they were very hot. Any ducting will cause a restriction especially in a 129 due to limited frontal area availability. Only a dyno will tell if the cold air is a gain or not. I will be installing an insulated partition to duct cold air probably this winter.
The pictures I attached are a very simple way of attaching a large K&N type filter to the mass flow sensor of the 1996 and later M120. The 3" filter will just clamp right to the mass flow sensor. A hole needs to be punched into the filter to place a temperature sensor bracket. And a bracket needs to be fabricated to mount the end of the mass flow sensor to the chassis.
The cars O2 sensors will automatically make these AF adjustment for you.
Possibly on your partial throttle maps, but not when your car goes into closed loop.
Once you go WOT your ECU will revert to its fuel maps, and if its not tuned correctly it can run too lean, pull timing due to higher intake temps, and loose top end HP
Quote:
Originally Posted by roncallo
A before and after dyno will be useful to access the performance gains
...not to mention insure that your car is running healthy.
There might be a small chance that tuning will not be needed, but I wouldnt chance it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by roncallo
Only a dyno will tell if the cold air is a gain or not
Not nessesarily.
Dyno's are usually done when the car is cooled and the hood is usually up, thus both intake exaples should show similar results on the dyno since temps will be the same.
The true test of performance is the track.
They may dyno the same #'s but I'll bet money the ducted intake crosses the finish line first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by roncallo
The pictures I attached are a very simple way of attaching a large K&N type filter to the mass flow sensor of the 1996 and later M120.
I like what you've done with the intake, no doubt its a big improvement over stock.
Curious though, have you ever dynoed your car?
In your current setup I would've thought you'd be trapping 104-105 despite the traction issues.
Possibly on your partial throttle maps, but not when your car goes into closed loop.
Once you go WOT your ECU will revert to its fuel maps, and if its not tuned correctly it can run too lean, pull timing due to higher intake temps, and loose top end HP
I wasn't aware the engine goes into open loop at WOT. Then again 1996+ is not reprogrammable as far as I know unless you go to an aftermarket fuel ignition management system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech-Tune
...not to mention insure that your car is running healthy.
There might be a small chance that tuning will not be needed, but I wouldnt chance it.
Not nessesarily.
Dyno's are usually done when the car is cooled and the hood is usually up, thus both intake exaples should show similar results on the dyno since temps will be the same.
The true test of performance is the track.
They may dyno the same #'s but I'll bet money the ducted intake crosses the finish line first.
That is what makes a test design. If your trying to compare a cold air intake you have to run the dyno with the hood down simulating track conditions as best as possible. More than likely the reality is it will be difficult to find a dyno operator that will cooperate with a test like that so unless you own the dyno and can set up the test the way you like you are no doubt screwed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech-Tune
I like what you've done with the intake, no doubt its a big improvement over stock.
Curious though, have you ever dynoed your car?
In your current setup I would've thought you'd be trapping 104-105 despite the traction issues.
Goal for last weekend was to break 14 seconds and 100MPH then bring it home in one piece. The goal was met.
No dyno yet it is a plan. I believe I can trap 104 -105 with a little practice. I'm going to try a Winter mode (second gear start) next time. I believe that will actually help out for the moment. But learning to feather the gas will be the ultimate solution. Another problems with getting higher speeds is that 3rd gear is so bad for the 1/4 mile. At 100MPH your only 1/2 way through it.
Vehicle: 1999 SL600 Obsidian with Shell & 1997 SL600 Brilliant with grey
Location: Tulsa Oklahoma
Posts: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by roncallo
I tend to disagree. The cars O2 sensors will automatically make these AF adjustment for you. A before and after dyno will be useful to access the performance gains, and I do think there will be performance gains especially when these are ducted to cold but how much is anyone's guess.
When I ran at the track last week I opened the hood and grabbed the filters and they were very hot. Any ducting will cause a restriction especially in a 129 due to limited frontal area availability. Only a dyno will tell if the cold air is a gain or not. I will be installing an insulated partition to duct cold air probably this winter.
The pictures I attached are a very simple way of attaching a large K&N type filter to the mass flow sensor of the 1996 and later M120. The 3" filter will just clamp right to the mass flow sensor. A hole needs to be punched into the filter to place a temperature sensor bracket. And a bracket needs to be fabricated to mount the end of the mass flow sensor to the chassis.
That thing looks sick. I love it. That thing must take off like a rocket on the highway.
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