Hey guys , another problem with the top on an sl class , I was backing up the car from the garage for a detail when i noticed it was leaking fluid from the driver side rear tire . This happened during and after i was putting the soft top on . It was leaking hydro fluid so i opened it again and saw this, can anyone tell me what this is and how it goes bad? name , job? etc..... Anything will help.
After seeing that i just washed the car and pulled it back in no detail tonight .
Hope these help you can see that its leaking from the top of the hydrological pump.
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1995 SL500 red / black w/ ]RENNtech wheels. For sale
1992 sl500 red/tan 154k. 4sale also best offer.
You need your hydraulic cylinders replaced or rebuilt. I have replaced the cylinders in the windshield post, but this is a DIY if your handy. Dennis Fickens will rebuild any cylinder for 20 bucks shipped. If you are able to have it apart for a few days this would be the way to go, do both side too. He is a member of the board and hopefully will reply to this message. Some with experience please supply all the info you can to help with this. My man here isn't afraid of using a camera and hopefully HE WOULD TAKE PICS FOR A WRITE UP. haha
Thanx for the info ,but those are the ones in te front on top of the windshield, i had those replaced brand new 200$, but the one im having problems with is the one in te back driverside its leaking hydro fluid from the top and going down to te side skirts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowbilt
You need your hydraulic cylinders replaced or rebuilt. I have replaced the cylinders in the windshield post, but this is a DIY if your handy. Dennis Fickens will rebuild any cylinder for 20 bucks shipped. If you are able to have it apart for a few days this would be the way to go, do both side too. He is a member of the board and hopefully will reply to this message. Some with experience please supply all the info you can to help with this. My man here isn't afraid of using a camera and hopefully HE WOULD TAKE PICS FOR A WRITE UP. haha
tjobeid,
Just so you get a decent nights sleep, NO, you don't need all that stuff on ebay.
If it were my car, I'd remove the assembly, send it to Dennis Ficken for rebuild. Check with him first as he may have the one(s) you need and can ship them out to you on a core exchange. Talk it over with him, you'll end up saving a ton of money and get a great 'product'.
Tjobeid,
Finally I can contribute after so much help from Dennis and Bob.
Although I live in Denmark, Dennis repaired 8 of my cylinders in one week including shipping both ways and they are as good or better than new now. Be sure to check all 12 and only if you are very sure that some are absolutely OK, leave them and have those repaired with any leak at all. Dennis is doing an excellent and cheap job.
It is not a difficult job to remove and refit the latches and even easier to take them apart and fit repaired cylinders back again. As far as I can see, the front ones can only sit in one place (look for old threats on how to get to them), but I would advise you to take a picture or mark how the 2 centre and 2 rear ones are fitted as you then do not need to adjust them further after refitting. Take f.ek. off one of the 3 nuts and note how the bolt is situated in the adjustable hold. Put it back and take an other nut off and note how the bolt there is placed. I don't know if it's necessary, but I did it and I did not have to do any adjustment at all. I trust if you mark only one nut per latch you are OK.
The electrical plugs on each latch are maybe the biggest problem. If you just pull it out, it may break. One part is attached to the latch and the other must come off. I took a screwdriver (flat) and carefully wriggled the two parts from each other (after I broke two). If one breaks, you just use a nylon strap when you refit, but better to avoid of course.
Ones you have the latch in your hand you only need to remove a small clip to take out the cross-pin from the end of the cylinder (opposite of the end with the shaft) and the then screw off the rod by a winch. You may have to grind down a wrench if you don’t have a special "ignition-wrench, which is very thin. I think it is a 5.5 mm to the front latches and a 6 or 7 mm for the rear latches, but that can be measured and it may depend on the year of the W129). Don't use vise grips-it will ruin the piston rod. They are secured by a red paint. I used lock-tite when refitting.
The two cylinders that open the cover at that back are also easy to get to when you have removed the inner carpet in the trunk. IF you take off the lid to the fuse-box, you don’t need to remove the two Phillips screws: They only hold the big 30AMP fuse and with that removed, the system does not work!! It took me 2 days to find out and a lot of kind advise from Bob.
You don't need to worry about leaking pipes when you remove the clip and pull out the pipe as long as you keep the ignition key in your pocket. Don't use it before you completely finish. Maybe better to remove one of the wires from the battery. But if you don't give power to the Hydraulic pump you will experience very little or no spill from the system during repair. When you receive the cylinders back from Dennis, the seals in the holes where the pipes goes in are there already and you only push them in and refit the clip. Easy, very easy.
I have no experience on how to get to and remove the two big main ones operating the actual soft top and/or the ones operating the rollover bar as those were not (yet?) leaking. But if you do a search you will find a lot of advise on how to do that. I think it is more complicated but not so sure.
After the repair, you may need to reset the system; do the following:
1.Lock everting down (manually if needed), close the windows, get into the car and start engine
1A. Open both windows
2. Switch of the engine
2A. Get out of the car
3. Lock the car by the key (holding down remote-control) and hold it until the windows goes up and continues holding about 10 sec.
3A. Open the car (with remote or key)
4.Get in the car and switch on ignition - only don't run the engine
5. Hold the red switch in forward position for the 5 sec. then pull it back to open the top
Last edited by Jacob500SL : 04-27-2007 at 08:08 AM.
Ok guys i went and took a look at the car , I looked at the hydrological pump under the spare tire and its empty because it was leaking from the side skirt every time i tried to open the top and close it.The 2 cylinders on the top of the windshield are fine , the ones in the back inside the storage compartment were the top lays in the driver one is leaking the passenger one is fine , where else can i look for another problems that may have went wrong ? And is there a simple way for me to take the rear cylinder off the car myself , looks like hard work and lots of work .
Hey guys , another problem with the top on an sl class , I was backing up the car from the garage for a detail when i noticed it was leaking fluid from the driver side rear tire . This happened during and after i was putting the soft top on . It was leaking hydro fluid so i opened it again and saw this, can anyone tell me what this is and how it goes bad? name , job? etc..... Anything will help.
Hope these help you can see that its leaking from the top of the hydrological pump.
Read those posts. There was one guy who managed to take pictures of the removal of the back compartment area in order to get to the cylinders. Also try multiple Search's of this Forum. Seek and you will find....
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I was backing up the car from the garage for a detail when i noticed it was leaking fluid from the driver side rear tire . This happened during and after i was putting the soft top on . It was leaking hydro fluid so i opened it again and saw this, can anyone tell me what this is and how it goes bad? name , job? etc.....
Anything will help.
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