NO LEAK fixed my hydraulic fliud leak at winshield

[1TOPBENZ]

So just to confirm, I would be safe taking out all my fluid and adding this NO LEAK? I just noticed a small leak over my passengers side, it's not much but it's there I wonder if this will do the trick, and do I mix the fluid or replace it all?

[lynns]

Originally Posted by benge

I did the "No Leak" fix approx 12 months ago.It stopped the drip on the drivers side. Yesterday when I was putting the top up it blew. I was not shocked since I felt it was a temporay repair while I worked on other fixes. Question?? I need to let the top down so that I can get to the cylinders. What am I going to run into since I have this major leak in the one cylinder???

As time passes and new members join the forum I am continualy amazed at how much I have learned and still don't know about the RST hydraulic system.

But if I were you I would get the top down either manualy or automatically by filling the reservoir and having shop towels available to collect the leakage. Once you get the top down have both of the front cylinders repaired by Dennis and renew the hydraulic fluid. Then, in the future, keep your eyes open for any fluid that you might find leaking in the rear wheel area.

BTW, don't forget to go to the bottom of the 4th Blue Sticky.

[KBelov]

This is funny how the same question pops up again and again. There is no STOP LEAK that I know of that will heal the cracks in polyurethane. Unless it clogs the cracks ... and something else somewhere too. And nitrile rubber the o-rings are made of is totally different material that can harden or shrink. It requires a different STOP LEAK as was mentioned before. So far, all the cylinders I rebuilt had no problems with o-ring. It was always a cracked seal. But since the o-rings are standard and only cost few cents, why take the chances? And why bother with putting two different STOP LEAKs into your system with unpredictable results? Once I am experienced now, I can take the front cylinders out in just few minutes. Few more minutes to replace the seals. I had no problems since I did mine way back in my E320 cabrio and SL500. I'd be really disappointed if I have to replace the pump, or unclog the delicate valves and lines in the system after I put in some STOP LEAK.

[aam]

Originally Posted by KBelov

This is funny how the same question pops up again and again. There is no STOP LEAK that I know of that will heal the cracks in polyurethane. Unless it clogs the cracks ... and something else somewhere too. And nitrile rubber the o-rings are made of is totally different material that can harden or shrink. It requires a different STOP LEAK as was mentioned before. So far, all the cylinders I rebuilt had no problems with o-ring. It was always a cracked seal. But since the o-rings are standard and only cost few cents, why take the chances? And why bother with putting two different STOP LEAKs into your system with unpredictable results? Once I am experienced now, I can take the front cylinders out in just few minutes. Few more minutes to replace the seals. I had no problems since I did mine way back in my E320 cabrio and SL500. I'd be really disappointed if I have to replace the pump, or unclog the delicate valves and lines in the system after I put in some STOP LEAK.

Konstantin, I agree with you 1000%
Guys you can buy the seals at a reasonable price from Konstantin, or have Dennis rebuild them.

Or you can do as I did..............

Of course you know the other answer, get them from the stealer,$$$.
All the seals that I have seen were cracked.
The only way, is to replace them.

Regards.
aam.

Regards.
aam.