I researched this approach, contacted NO LEAK maker, contacted other no leak makers, spoke to automotive experts. DON'T DO IT! Over time, you will probably end up replacing or rebuilding all your cylinders. I like the rebuild approach for DIY owners.
Welcome to the R29 Forum. Would you http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...-question.html May I ask why you are researching this NO LEAK topic after your recent purchase of a 1994 R129 w/ 64K miles? Have you now detected a hydraulic system oil leak? Tell us more so we can help.
i fix the leak in my 1998 sl500, by adding NO LEAK brand powering steering fluid to my resorvior and allowing about a week to work it way through the system . the leak stoped and it has not returned , that was about 15 months ago . i took out enough fliud fromm my resorvior located in the trunk and added all of the no leak. the NO LEAK brand fluids has a web page which explains the product . i do not have any assocation with this company they have a great product which has saved me hundreds of dollars and headaches. all of you have saved me money through this forum and i hope i can do the same for you.
tennis1,
How is your soft top hydraulic system doing with the NO LEAK Power Sterring Fluid?
He added the No LEAK several years ago (in 2005 ?), so that means it is working ?
That's my clear understanding.
I would call him the first real pioneer willing to give Gold Eagle - NO-LEAK a try and he claims that he is still not having any problems with leakage after 3 years. I know this is scarry to most MB purrest. But what concerns me even more is that many American car manufactures have used hydraulic cylinders with there soft tops and after MANY years they still don't have any leaks. I did a non-scientific Poll and found that the front HC seals seem to last 8-10+ years. BTW, we have that DIY repair down and very inexpensive. But when it comes to the other 8-10 cylinders in the rear that's a different story.
I read through the entire thread with great interest. While there are many thought provoking suggestions, there has also been a fundamental omission.
There are multiple types of seals in the actuating cylinders, the lock cylinders, the electrohydraulic valves, and the pump. Added to this complication, for supporting any theory of using stop leak, we have to understand that these seals are definitely made of different materials.
Dennis in permalink 20 came closest to stating this.
My recent tear down of these cylinders showed that even the rod seals can vary in physical shape. The point here is the original case of a cure was not analyzed enough to determine which type of seal might have leaked. In the forward lock cylinder, I could imagine the end plug O ring leaking and afterwards responding to stop leak and swelling. As Dennis mentions, however, no way a physically damaged rod seal is going to be "healed" by stop leak. Since most of us find damaged rod seals, we are forgetting that it is possible to have a static O ring shrink and allow fluid to pass.
I have looked into a sample SL500 hyd. pump and found that a large o ring keeps the reservoir from leaking. This seal was swelled and more pliable than its original condition and was also physically weaker. The other critical seal inside the pump would be around the input shaft and so far I have not heard of any of these failing but there is no reason to believe that this is not possible.
Also, consider that each hydraulic line recepticle has a miniature o ring in it.
This is true for the cylinders, and all other attachment points that use the clips.
I am willing to believe that the butyl material in the O rings is affected by stop leak and indeed this can be proven by immersing an o ring in the fluid and checking after several weeks.
The rod seals however are polyurethane and I can find no reference to their being affected one way or another by the stop leak even though it could not affect a seal that broke apart as the ones I have seen do.
So what is the bottom line? Simple: Stop leak will probably not "hurt" the system and it will swell some of the butyl type seals. Its effect on the life of the seals is probably not a big deal but lack of long term testing results would lead us to limit its use to a temporary fix. When a leaking component is replaced you should probably return to stock hydraulic fluid.
Remember, water and heat together is the big killer of polyurethane and a fluid change every two years or so can take the h20 out of the system just as it does for a brake system.
Regards,
George
Last edited by Gwillie : 11-26-2008 at 08:22 PM.
Reason: not finished
Actually its different.
No Leak is a seal swell agent. It makes the actual seal a little larger and more pliable.
Radiator StopLeak (and others) have small particles that stop the leak. As the fluid comes out the hole, so do the particles and eventually stop the leak. Works the same way as your body when you bleed. Strenous fibers block the holes leak.
Quote:
Originally Posted by msbarsi
So it seems tjobeid but I hope tennis1 can clarify it and also provide the NO LEAK website.
As far as I understand it should work like a sealant of some sort like the one you put in radiators to stop small leaks or so.
Cheers.
__________________
Regards,
Robert in Virginia (USA)
99 C280
Actually its different.
No Leak is a seal swell agent. It makes the actual seal a little larger and more pliable.
Radiator StopLeak (and others) have small particles that stop the leak. As the fluid comes out the hole, so do the particles and eventually stop the leak. Works the same way as your body when you bleed. Strenous fibers block the holes leak.
I did the "No Leak" fix approx 12 months ago.It stopped the drip on the drivers side. Yesterday when I was putting the top up it blew. I was not shocked since I felt it was a temporay repair while I worked on other fixes. Question?? I need to let the top down so that I can get to the cylinders. What am I going to run into since I have this major leak in the one cylinder???
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