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Old 10-18-2006, 03:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Vehicle: 1998 Pano SL500 1993 SL500
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Bonnet/hood insulation

The bonnet/hood insulation material on my 1993 SL 500 is disintegrating.
This was graphically demonstrated yesterday when I passed from Gibraltar back into Spain and was subjected to a routine Spanish customs (Aduanas) inspection.
The young and rather enthusiastic customs officer demanded the bonnet/hood be raised so he could determine that I wasn't smuggling tobacco across the border.
He was rather pissed off when a large piece of dirty foam rubber fell onto his uniform dislodged by his cap banging into the foam when he stood up

I suppose this is something an owner can replace fairly easily ?

BTW we didn't have any tobacco, only two 1ltr. bottles of tax free Bacardi rum @ £4.50/litre
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Old 10-18-2006, 10:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Red face Hood / Bonnet Insulation - replacement

You can purchase the insulation from any MB workshop,
I had the same problem with my 1998 SL500 in the summer, the insulation sheet was dis-intergrating and the particles were lying all over the engine covers...
purchase the new insulation sheet, and the glue first then
cover your engine bay with a dust sheet, before you start the job.....

Found this thread on the forum

Here's some info:
http://www.mbca.org/tdlarchives/thre...0re placement

Also, be sure to use 3M Hood Pad "Super Trim Adhesive "#08090 (not #08080, which is for other jobs.)

Rgds
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Old 10-18-2006, 10:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Hood / Bonnet Insulation - replacement

The one above does not work


http://www.mbca.org/tdlarchives/thre...0re placement

try this short cut, sorry

Baw
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Old 10-19-2006, 09:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I tried the link but it won't display the page. I think you have to be registered with them to access anything other than the home page.
If you are a member Baw, could you copy and paste the text into this thread
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Old 10-19-2006, 09:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Wink Hood / Bonnet Insulation - replacement

Redliner, This is what the thread says, there are 2 answers
1 from Tom Hanson 2001
2 from Reddog Aug 2006

Subject: RE: Hood Pad Replacement
Name: tom hanson
From: tom7777@netzero.net
Date: 5/18/2001

Use a "Scotch-brite" pad and get the surface as smooth as possible. It doesn't have to be perfect. Use 3M "spray" trim adhesive. Spray the hood and the pad, and let it get tacky for about 10 minutes. Put the hood in the second position (straight up). Put the new pad on, starting in the center and working to the outside. Try to get someone to help you. It's much easier with 2 people. I've done this dozens of times. I stock the hood pad. Call me at 800 252-6877 for a great price.


2 Written by Reddog

Replacing your Hood Pad
Raise hood to full vertical position
Find junky sheet to cover whole front of car/engine compartment

Get hard plastic scraper (a windshield ice scraper does very well, and I have no current use for one where I live anyway!) and start scraping

When you get the adhesive see if the supplier has 3M Adhesive and Decal Remover. This is really nasty stuff but will not harm automotive finishes other than to strip the wax off. Very flammable as well, so don't do this around the water heater or enjoy a Macanudo while applying it. Soak a shop rag in the stuff and get it all over the remaining gook from the old pad. Since it's mostly naptha it does evaporate quickly, so work in small areas. Once the remains of the pad are softened up scrape away! Don't obsess about complete removal, as you won't get all of it off. Some people use metal scrapers such as putty knives which are pretty dull, but I prefer not to. My concerns are that scratches in the finish could possibly rust from moisture trapped in or under the pad. Certainly don't want my hood rusting from the inside out!

Once all this is done carefully apply the adhesive. I say carefully since it will attack painted finishes on you car, so spray close to the hood and avoid any overspray. I like to spray a 4"-6" section across the top (front) of the hood with a corresponding application to the pad in the same area. Let the adhesive set up the prescribed amount of time.

Get the pad lined up and stick it on in one corner. Line it up on the other corner and make sure it's in place, then press it down. Now the pad will be hanging curtain-like from the leading edge of the hood.

Apply the remaining adhesive to the hood and pad and press it into place after it sets up. I have a brayer (a hard rubber roller used for laminating) that I like to use to go over all parts of the pad, making sure it's stuck on well. Leave it in the vertical position for an hour or so, then you're done!
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Old 10-19-2006, 10:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks Baw, a very useful article.
I'll see if the local MB stock the pad. If not I suppose I could buy some from a spares shop by the metre and cut the shape out using the old pad as a template.
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Old 10-19-2006, 07:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Give us a update on the imfamous grill.....
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Old 10-20-2006, 02:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowbilt
Red,
Give us a update on the imfamous grill.....
It's still in place and just as dirty looking
I will take it to a an old friend who will try to bead blast it.
If there is no result I'll get it sprayed with a complimentary colour.

As an aside. My apologies for not searching the data base and starting this parallel topic.
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Old 10-21-2006, 06:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLiner
Thanks Baw, a very useful article.
I'll see if the local MB stock the pad. If not I suppose I could buy some from a spares shop by the metre and cut the shape out using the old pad as a template.
I had the same problem with my car. This is the third one. (The second one was replaced by the dealer).

I bought one from ebay (still waiting for it to arrive). It cost $63 while the dealer quoted $125. I am not sure if they are the same material.

Thanks Bawbag for the information.
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