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Old 06-30-2006, 06:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2005
Vehicle: 98 SL500
Location: Edmond, OK
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The windshield hydraulic leak fix begins DONE

I called phil at mercedesshop and what a nice guy. I told him I was part of the benzworld forums and he really appreciates all the support we give him. The parts should be here early next week. I am going to take as many pictures of the process as possible and post them. Hopefully we can sticky this since it is such a common problem. One question looking at threads on the other site. I was under the impression that there is only one fluid resevior under the spare. They indicated there is one in the engine compartment is this true?
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Last edited by snowbilt : 07-15-2006 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 06-30-2006, 12:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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As far as I know the ONLY fluid res. is in the trunk under the spare, and unless it has been leaking for a long time or leaked "ALL AT ONCE" you should' nt need fluid, this is really a fairly easy repair, take your time and have fun doing it.
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Old 06-30-2006, 03:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That is what I thought. I just started leaking a couple of weeks ago and is very minimal. Where would I get the plugs for the lines so fluid doesn't get everywhere?
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Old 06-30-2006, 08:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowbilt
That is what I thought. I just started leaking a couple of weeks ago and is very minimal. Where would I get the plugs for the lines so fluid doesn't get everywhere?
Chris, these part nos. should help. I'd call Phil to see if he can ship with the other parts you're getting, or pick them up at a Dealer. Even MB can't charge a whole lot for plugs (he said with tounge in cheek) Good luck with the project; very interested in seeing the pix.


NOTE: The hydraulic lines must be plugged immediately with plugs part no.129 589 00 91 07, the connections on the catches with plugs part no. 129 589 00 91 11.

Bob
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Old 07-01-2006, 03:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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When I did mine, I got NO OIL leaking when I unplugged the cyl. from the lines. JUST DON'T try to operate the switch until you have replaced the cyl. and have it back together. Its a 10 min. job once you get all the trim and stuff out of the way!!!!!
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Old 07-10-2006, 09:28 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Well got the parts in today. Do you have to take off the sunvisors to remove the top of the windshield? If so I was going to buy new plastic pieces where the visors attach.
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes you do. Its the STUFF you have to remove just to get to the cyl. that takes all of the time, Once you get that stuff off its very straight forward, and just think, YOU'LL be the one saving $90+ per hr.YA---HOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!
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Old 07-10-2006, 07:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowbilt
Well got the parts in today. Do you have to take off the sunvisors to remove the top of the windshield? If so I was going to buy new plastic pieces where the visors attach.
No need to remove visors! See attachment.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cover at Windshield Removal.JPG (45.3 KB, 281 views)
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Old 07-15-2006, 07:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well the job is completed. I took as many pictures as a could to hopefully sticky this since it is a common problem. Here we go from start to finish.
Tools needed phillips screwdriver, 6mm allen wrench, 7cm wrench, T-30 torx wrench, blue locktite.Taking off cover be sure to be easy so not to break electrical plug under cover. Once you get it set aside remove the three torx bolts that secure the latch and cylinder. Then remove cylinder from latch by removing allen bolts unclipping and removing hydraulic lines and removing cylinder from latch with 7cm wrench. Then install new cylinder to latch and hook up lines. The lines and the cylinder are numbered make sure they match. Be sure and use locktite on bolts when re-installing. I didn't unplug electical plug for latch I just worked on it over car. It might be easier to take it completely off, but I didn't want to run the risk off breaking it. You will not get much fluid from the lines but be carefull when you take the cylinder out you will get some out of it. Overall the job isn't bad even for someone like me who isn't mechanically inclined. The second latch will go much faster than the first. The only thing I wish I would have had is one of those bendable screw drivers that you can put different ends on. This would have come in handy removing the cylinder from the latch. Also, be carefull with the hydralic lines and make sure they are under the metal clip where the cover attaches. I put the top up and down 5 times and it worked like a charm. I just want the thank everyone for the input on this especially Bob Terry. Last but not least, it took me about 2hrs to do not including a trip to pep boys for a set of wrenchs and locktite. If anyone wants the large versions of the pictures I took just pm me and I will email them to you.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Parts.jpg (55.6 KB, 235 views)
File Type: jpg Tools Needed.jpg (32.7 KB, 222 views)
File Type: jpg Hidden Screw.jpg (43.2 KB, 229 views)
File Type: jpg Cover Half Off.jpg (47.5 KB, 225 views)
File Type: jpg Cover Off.jpg (54.2 KB, 224 views)
File Type: jpg Under Cover.jpg (31.9 KB, 222 views)

Last edited by snowbilt : 07-15-2006 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 07-16-2006, 10:53 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Chris,
Thanks again for the pix and write-up! Even me, with the dexterity of Zippy the Chimp, can now do this-

Bob
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