Lynn,
Where did this information come from? I was wondering if that was needed. I just purchased one liter 3 weeks ago. I have not used it yet due to the weather. I am going to buy another and wait for the next warm spell. One question is what would you clean the reservior with? I would assume it would be something that would not contaminate the fluid.
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Some do, some don't, some will, some won't, but I might!
Chris,
Lynn,
Where did this information come from? I was wondering if that was needed. I just purchased one liter 3 weeks ago. I have not used it yet due to the weather. I am going to buy another and wait for the next warm spell. One question is what would you clean the reservior with? I would assume it would be something that would not contaminate the fluid.
I gleaned this from an Internet post as well as my STAR Classic Service Library DVD entitled, " Soft top and roll bar hydraulic system - check and correct fluid level". This is ONLY a suggestion if you agree with changing out the oil. I have not been able find any information from M-B that suggests this as a proactive measure. It just makes sense to me. The site that I read suggested cleaning the reservoir with a degreaser but I am not sure I am comfortable with that. I think you should do the best that you can just to remove all the old oil.
M-B regards the system as being "filled for life" and never needing replacement. I myself have no opinion replacing the fluid other than to comment that it can't hurt and is simple to do. By the way, the two left-hand pictures are not of the R129. There is no fill plug. To add fluid you just unscrew from the top of the reservoir the plastic cap along with the return line.
If I were going to do this procedure myself, I believe I would take it one step further. After refilling the reservoir I would operate the top through a number of cycles with the return line to the reservoir removed and inserted into a container. This way the old fluid that was in the lines and cylinders would be removed from the system as well.
Vehicle: 1987 560SL Gone but not forgotten! & 1999 SL500 For Now
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 584
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobterry99
If I were going to do this procedure myself, I believe I would take it one step further. After refilling the reservoir I would operate the top through a number of cycles with the return line to the reservoir removed and inserted into a container. This way the old fluid that was in the lines and cylinders would be removed from the system as well.
Bob T,
This seems like a good idea about draining out the lines and cylinders to get most/all the fluid out. One question, with the return line removed would you have to plug the fitting on the reservoir to maintain pressure in the system?
M-B regards the system as being "filled for life" and never needing replacement. I myself have no opinion replacing the fluid other than to comment that it can't hurt and is simple to do.
Just thought I'd pitch in - my local MB dealer actually suggested replacing the fluid last summer when I bought a bottle of the fluid. Didn't ask how, but I think it makes sense, I believe the fluid is now 13 years old...
Vehicle: 1987 560SL Gone but not forgotten! & 1999 SL500 For Now
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 584
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobterry99
I don't think so, Bob.
Thanks Bob,
You could probably surmise that I was concerned about the ramifications of an open fitting pulling air into a normaly 'closed' system. Appreciate your thoughtful reply!
Hi all.
Just a thought to ponder, here we have to deal with all those leaks on the system.
Twelve cylinders, valves, tuping, pump, etc, by doing all those repairs aren't we replacing the fluid,whether we like it or not?
Regards,
Albert....
Thanks for the plug! I really have to agree with you and Snobilt on adding NO LEAK. From what I've seen on the failure of the seals, it can't work as a long term fix. All of the seals fail due to becoming brittle and splitting. Once the seal has split, it's split.
Is there a chance that NO LEAK acts like adding brake fluid to your engine to soften and swell the seals? (old trick from my father-sell the car quickly) What will it do the seals in the pump and the solenoid valves? These are very expensive parts to take a gamble on, but that's just my opinion...
If anyone is needing their leaking cylinders repaired, I'm still repairing any of the R129 or W124 cylinders for $30 each and $10 flat shipping charge.
My 1990 300SL had the hydraulic fluid leak back in 1999, I ordered the two electrohydraulic latches online from Blitzen (Idon't know if they are still in bussines) they cost one half of what the dealer was asking for them, I set out to dismantle the rerview mirror assembly and the trim around the windshield. Not too dfficult or time consuming, and removed and installed the new parts without difficulty. The key to it is being careful with all the plastic aprts which become brittle with age. If you have enough time and don't mind gettting your hands a little dirty, this is the best way to go about it, I think.
No more leaks since then. Good luck
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