The winshield hydraulic leak fix begins

[lynns]

Originally Posted by dennis300sl

All of the seals fail due to becoming brittle and splitting. Once the seal has split, it's split.

Here is the million dollar question.
What causes the seals to become brittle and split?
Let's talk about fixing the problem before it occurs.
Could NO LEAK be a proactive formula?

[SunGuy61]

Lynn,
Maybe it's time to contact No-Leak and ask them to join this discussion.

Dennis weighed in as one of the more to most knowledgeable people about the seals themselves, but we're not hearing from a chemical engineer or fluidics expert that knows unequivocally the makeup of the hydraulic fluid, or just what's in No-Leak that would make it beneficial to the seals without risk of damaging some other part of the system as Dennis points out.

Why not use the contact link at No-Leak's website and ask their experts to join in?

Bob

[dennis300sl]

Originally Posted by lynns

Here is the million dollar question.
What causes the seals to become brittle and split?
Let's talk about fixing the problem before it occurs.
Could NO LEAK be a proactive formula?

I wish I could answer that. Heat definitely is an issue. That's why the windshield latch cylinders fail years ahead of the rest of them. It could also be the seal material itself. I don't know what criteria MB used to choose the fluid or the seals.

Being proactive would be great, but it would take several years to find out if the original seals last any longer than they do now.

[lynns]

Originally Posted by SunGuy61

Lynn,
Maybe it's time to contact No-Leak and ask them to join this discussion.

Bob

Bob,

Here is what I sent tonight to marketing@goldeagle.com. Let's see what there feedback is.

"Please help our Mercedes Benz SL500 Forum answer some questions with regard to your product.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...-begins-2.html

I am in hopes that a product like yours might not only be the answer to a MB "seal problem" but more importantly it may be a proactive solution that can be used to allevate or extend the life of our convertible top Hydraulic Cylinder Seals before they need replacement.

There are a total of twelve cylinders that take part in the raising and lowering of our convertible tops. Most commonly there are two cylinders located above the windshield that activate the latches that lock and unlock the top. These two cylinders are the first that need replacing. If you go to the following post you will see where I have started a POLL to determine the year of the car and when the front seals needed replacing. Pretty costly unless you do it yourself-DIY.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...der-r-r-4.html

Please feel free to join our forum and put your comments in and answer any questions that we may have. There is a concern on the behalf of several members that a product like yours may not be appropriate for the SL500 system and that it could damage other parts like the pump, etc. and end up being very costly.

Please help answer our concerns.

Regards, lynns"

[SunGuy61]

Lynn,

Well said...and if they do their homework and figure out that every MB 129 and 124 cab owner is a prospect for this stuff, it's a nice revenue gain for them too.

Bob

[Bawbag]

Lynns,

Good idea to include gold eagle (no leak) in to the forum, I am sure they will plug there product, but i hope they will also show us some convincing data of there product, that will persuade us to start adding it to the reservoir.

Like everything in life, things just wear out, so it is inevitable that the seals will have to be changed sooner than later..
"If anyone is needing their leaking cylinders repaired", (keep in there Dennis) we are not giving up on you yet ...

Baw

[wayneg]

As I am not familiar with hydraulics can someone confirm that the oil is circulated around the system if all is well? If not would any additive to the tank just stay there until a leak allowed it to flow through the system and do its work?

[snowbilt]

Wow this has got some legs since I have been gone. Lynn's good idea on writing the additive company. I am anxious to see what they say, but I am afriad it may be biased. This "mercedes hydraulic oil" that is sitting in my garage is mysterious and perplexing. This subject makes me have flash backs of the "mystery meat" mondays at my high school cafeteria. To this day I think it was bigfoot meat.

[bobterry99]

Originally Posted by wayneg

...can someone confirm that the oil is circulated around the system if all is well?

Yes, the oil circulates.

[lynns]

Originally Posted by lynns

Here is the million dollar question.
What causes the seals to become brittle and split?
Let's talk about fixing the problem before it occurs.

Please read I purged the hyd fluid 3 times repeatedly. You can see how dirty the fluid is and hydraulic pump is located in the trunk under the spare tire plastic cover

Renewing the hydraulic system fluid every 25K miles or so should extend the life of many of the hydraulic system components. This is not a part of Mercedes prescribed maintenance, so most cars are still running around with the original fluid (plus years of accumulated contaminants).

Here is a proactive approach, which I believe will improve the longevity of the hydraulic system.

1) With the soft top stored and roll bar lowered remove the R129 spare tire. Under the spare tire you will find a plastic covering over the hydraulic reservoir. Remove the plastic covers three nuts with a 10 mm socket wrench.

Note: The total capacity of the system is 1.25 liters, so you should have 2.0 liters of fresh hydraulic fluid (M-B p/n 000989910310 or Febi-Bilstein 02615) in order to flush the entire system. My reservoir holds 250 ml when the fluid level is between the min. and max. mark.

3) Remove the reservoir cap and add some new fluid to the reservoir so that you have about 400 ml in the reservoir. Remove the reservoir return line (tube closest to you when bending over into the trunk) with a 12 mm wrench. Place the return line into a >500 ml container.

4) Now have someone in the car. Turn the ignition key to the number two position. Cycle the soft top and roll bar two times and refill the reservoir to approx. 400 ml. You will need to do this about 4-5 times.

5) Replace the reservoir return line, cap, and plastic cover. Return the spare tire and put the trunk back together in reverse order.

Hope this is helpful.