Yes, I would say the top latch is leaking. I'm guessing this is on the 95' model.

 

Thanks Jim,

Every time I open or close the soft top, it leaks more since the pump works, I think. Do you happen to know how much it would cost to fix at the dealer?

By the way, this is the 99' car.

 

Sorry can't help you there. I personally would do the repair it myself.

 

Parts are cheap, and the repair is simple. See http://www.mbnz.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1166258&posts=6&hl=

 

There are some latches posted on ebay.
http://stores.ebay.com/fivestar007_Convertible-tops-and-sunroof_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQsclZallQQsotimedisplayZ2QQtZkm

 

There are some latches posted on ebay.
http://stores.ebay.com/fivestar007_...7_Convertible-tops-and-sunroof_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQsclZallQQsotimedisplayZ2QQtZkm

have been thru the hydraulic prob. several times. Here's my advise for what it's worth. Once these leaks start you can figure the whole system is right behind. There are 10 hyd. actuators in the top mech. and 2 in the roll bar. Don't even ask the dealer, the cost will be several thousand$$. Find a good Mercedes mech and have at least the 10 top actuators removed. Here is the man who will do ALL of the rebuilding with new seals and O rings for about $600. with a 5 year warranty--he's been there a long time.
Contact: Kevin R. Crane, 1100 Kirkwood St. Waterford, Mi. 48328, ph. 248-790-0011 on the net at: www. benzseals.com
PS I tried the one at a time fix--it cost me a LOT...
Good luck,
Capt. George Rittenhouse

 

Thanks Bob and Jim for you info. There are so many different ones out there and I have no idea which one to select. The part numbers are also different. Which one should be the right one?

Thanks again.

 

If you are going to buy from the eBay seller, you want to get one of the items like item 2438304724 . But that would be a poor choice. All you want is the hydraulic cylinder which attaches to the lock mechanism and not the complete assembly. And why accept a used cylinder when a new one is just $125?

 

Bob,

So the only part I'd need is the cylinder (part #129-800-16-72) ... or however you'd call it, is this true?

I don't want to buy the wrong one and end up losing another $125.00

Thanks much.

 

RE: the only part I'd need is the cylinder (part #129-800-16-72)?

Yes.

 

Thanks Bob, I will try to order it tomorrow through the suggested site. I will let you know the outcome.

 

Bob,

I received the part (hydraulic cylinder) this afternoon. It looks so small just slightly bigger than my toe ?!?! From the amount of oil that leak from my sun visor, it is impossible to hold that much of oil. Am I getting the right part?

Also, do I need to add oil to that "toe" before I replace the old one or does it already come pre-oil (inside)?

As always, thanks for your help and sorry to ask so many questions. My first time fixing something so I just want to be sure.

Best,
SL

 

BTW, the part I received look like the silver part on the left end of this picture, is it right?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&tc=photo&item=2435585561&category=33652

 

Congratulations. You got the right part. It does not have fluid already in it, but no need to add any. And no need to bleed the air out of the system either.

 

I will try to fix it tommorrow's morning if it's not raining. Hope I don't have to tow my car to the shop [].

From the way you and other described, it seem like the simple job to do. Why (and how) did the dealer charge the other guy $1,600.00 for it?

Have a great weekend Bob. and thanks

 

I replaced the hydraulic cylinder. You were right, it wasn't that tough consider I know next to nothing about car. I didn't have the star and hex keys though so it took me a while to replace it, well, 2 hours.

Now that when the front is finished, there seems to be a problem with the rear! when the soft top is in up (closed) position, things are fine. But when the soft top is in down (open) position, the "flap" cover (the one that looks like the U-shape when it is up), where it covers the compartment that holds the soft top does not want to go down. It stays straight up.

I looked into it to see if there were any of the hydraulic cylinders leaking but found none. Does any of you know what causes this not to work when the soft top is down?

If it doesn't close the whole time, then there must be a problem. Now that it only works half time (I know it is still a problem but) it confuses me.

Please see the pictures below. I have to manually push the cover for it to close (still doesn't lock though so the light on the switch still on).

Thanks in advance for any help.

Best,
SL

 

RE: Compartment cover won't close

The problem is surely the signal to the controller that the top mechanism is lowered into the storage compartment. The plunger-like limit switch in the picture below on your car may not be closing.

When the opening operation stops, get out of the car and use a screwdriver to push down on the switch. If the switch had been open it should now be closed. Continue with the opening operation. If the compartment cover now closes as it should, you need to adjust the switch. If it still won't close, you will need to test the switch electrically through diagnostics.

If you need to adjust the switch, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to cause the switch to close with less plunger travel. I don't recall whether you loosen or tighten the screw to do this, but if you look at it closely I think you will figure it out.

 

Thanks Bob. I have no idea what switch you were talking about but all of the sudden, the cover works again. I tried few times and it was fine so I guess I just cross my fingers for now. []

It seems like you know everything about the R129? Are you a mechanic?

Just out of curiousity, why do they call it R129 while W208 (why not R208) ... what is the R and what is W? Seems like R's are for SL and SLK and W's are for the rest. Perhaps, R stands for Roadster? ... no idea []

 

I'm not a mechanic. But I've always done my own repairs. And I've learned alot about the 129 convertible top because the first 300SL I owned had many problems.

That switch for the convertible top in compartment is in the area shown in the photo.

 

Thanks Bob, I will take a look when it happens again.

 

Good advice Bob, I have had the exact same problem with a sticky switch. I clened the sliders well and lubed it sparingly with a little lithium grease. Its 100% now.

One question for you. When my soft top comes to rest on the top of the windscreen, it ofter but not always requires a little tug or a lift and drop to engage. It locks tight and does not leak. Are new latches in order?

 

Good advice Bob, I have had the exact same problem with a sticky switch. I cleaned the sliders well and lubed it sparingly with a little lithium grease. Its 100% now.

One question for you. When my soft top comes to rest on the top of the windscreen, it ofter but not always requires a little tug or a lift and drop to engage. It locks tight and does not leak. Are new latches in order?

 

I don't believe you need new locks, but a slight adjustment to the latch may help. By the way, M-B does not consider it abnormal for the top to require a little manual assistance as you describe.

 

Im new to the forum and i recently bought a 95 sl600. I am having the exact same problem with the sun visor leaking oil. I would really like to try the fix myself, but i dont know how. is there anyway anyone can help me out and guide me as far as what part to buy and how to go about the fix?

thanks

 

Whoa, 6 year old thread

Leaking hydraulic fluid from the a-pillars is definitely a bad hydraulic cylinder which latches the top. I think there are some repair guides out there but you'll have to search the forum.

I had both my front cylinders restored by Dennis Ficken. Search his name and you'll find his contact information. His rates are very reasonable and offers a solid warranty. I have to get two more cylinders in the rear done by him as well.

It's best to repair them all at once, if you can afford the upfront cash, as it is 100% likely that the rest of the cylinders will follow suit and develop a leak.


And a tip, leave the top switch alone so you don't get any more hydraulic fluid over the plastic. It softens it up and if left for a while, the a-pillar and rear-view area will cause the plastic to be sticky and rough. It eats away at it.


When you get your cylinders repaired, it's also a good idea to do a hydraulic fluid flush and renew. It's easy. There's a guide on here somewhere.

 

LOL ... started out the thread 6 years ago and it's back to life (does this mean my car is too old now?). I remember having no clue back then but via the help of several members inlcuding Bob and Jim, I managed to pull through. It wasn't hard but require some patient.

The part number for my car was #129-800-16-72 or you can have it rebuilt like many others.