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Old 09-24-2000, 05:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Dec 1998
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too much play in steering wheel

anyone know the reason for too much free play in my steering wheel? this is a 73 450 SLC. Also if you have nay idea of approximate cost to fix it.<p>thanks,<br>Shon
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Old 09-28-2000, 10:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: too much play in steering wheel

: anyone know the reason for too much free play in my steering wheel? this is a 73 450 SLC. Also if you have nay idea of approximate cost to fix it.<p>thanks,<br>Shon<p>Its probably the steering gear box (see my previous post). It can be adjusted within reason for a couple of hundred. The box must come out to be adjusted.
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Old 09-28-2000, 07:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: too much play in steering wheel

well I asked a MB mechanic and he said it's not the gear box, it's the steering wheel U-joint which the bushings on it are worn out, hence when you turn the wheel, there's free play. He said he's fixed a few of them and the cost is about $350. another person said, it that's the case it shouldn't be that hard..... well I'm ordering a MB shop manul and see if I can do it myself for about $50
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Old 12-27-2000, 04:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: too much play in steering wheel

Shon E Mail me did you adjust your steering? I also have a 86 sl (That I Love) having the same problem and I got the manual but as of yet I haven't tryed the procedure
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Old 03-30-2007, 08:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Date registered: Mar 2007
Vehicle: 420 SEL, 1986 33K miles, 560 SL, 1987 173K miles
Location: Grangeville, Idaho
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steering coupler

The steering coupler is not terribly expensive. I think it was just over eighty bucks. But, installing it is going to be an education.

The steering box has to come off, you must index it in the dead center position through a hole in the side, filled now with a plug. I modified a metric bolt, I forget the exact size and pitch but did save the item so that information could be retreived. The lower end of the steering column is a four sided affair and can telescope back up away from you - and the steering wheel must be immobilised inside the car. (I used a gallon paint can filled with chain.) The splines on the box / gear to coupler must be registered or the steering wheel will not be straight with the world. To help you with all this, there is no room to operate, and the fasteners can be stubborn.

Keep the coupler free of oils or other fluids. The plastic inside them degrades.

This is a job I wish only on people I do not like. I got to do it twice to get it right once.
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Old 03-31-2007, 05:16 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Vehicle: 1978 450SL, 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid, 03 Toyota RAV4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James A. Jeffery
The steering coupler is not terribly expensive. I think it was just over eighty bucks. But, installing it is going to be an education.
If he hasn't replaced it in the 7 years since he posted this, he's probably learned to live with it by now.
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Old 03-31-2007, 01:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottinSoCal
If he hasn't replaced it in the 7 years since he posted this, he's probably learned to live with it by now.

Or it failed entirely 6 years ago which means there's a parts car out there somewhere.
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Old 04-16-2007, 10:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Date registered: Feb 2006
Vehicle: 1979. 450 SL
Location: East Texas
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The steering coupler has two rubber bushings in it and when they are both worn out you will get a rattle and slight jerk in the colmn. On some early models the bushings were replaceable but on the 79 they are not. I managed to replace the coupler without taking any steering linkage apart.

1. This requires you to be on your head in the driver floorboard.
2. Remove accererator pedal.
3. Remove the plastic boot around the colmn from the fire wall. (four bolts)
4. Pull boot up the colmn turning it to clear the accelerator pedal bar. Almost like unscrewing it past the bar.
5. You will see the coupler. Wiggle the steering wheel you will see one part turn befor the other. That is you rattle and slack in the steering.
6. Remove the two 6mm set screws. I had to go buy a 6mm wrench to fit the 3/8" drive socket wrench to supplement my allen wrenches. (A man can NEVER have to many tools)
7. With nail polish or pain or something paint both shafts (steering wheel and steering sector) in the gap where you removed the 6mm set screws. This will help realign the wheel upon reassembly. (that is the step I FORGOT THIS LAST TIME)
8. Remove the driver tire and the three bolts holding the steering sector to the frame. Also remove the heat shield between the exahust pipe and the hole where the column comes through. Remove anything else in the way.
9. With a BIG screw driver or pry bar pull the sector away from the column and remove coupler.
The steering shaft is square with a grove that runs perpindicular to the long axis. The grove is where the 6mm set screw fits. The shaft on the steering sector is splined with a grove all the way around to acomidate the other 6mm screw.
10. Put new coupler on splined shaft first being sure to line up the paint and the opening in coupler. The steering shaft has less opprotunity to to get it in the wrong place.
I had the instument cluster out of mine when I did it so I loosened the column and gaind a few extra mm clearance. You will think a few words and I appologize. But you don't have to get the front end realigned after your done.

Good luck
Noel JB
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Old 04-16-2007, 10:19 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Where's Dig? I need to borrow his cat. But instead of pacing back and forth, I need it to run around in crazed circles...

...like this thread!
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Old 04-16-2007, 10:32 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by page62
Where's Dig? I need to borrow his cat. But instead of pacing back and forth, I need it to run around in crazed circles...



...like this thread!
What cat?
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