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URO Hard Top Hoist First Look

10K views 39 replies 13 participants last post by  bcraske98 
#1 ·
Got the URO hard Top hoist. So far it seem OK but e few thing need to ba addressed.

#1) The side clips go on nicely and don't appear that they will scratch the roof.

#2) The unit grabs the roof forward of the roofs CG. Not a problem for most people but may be for me. The roof should lift nose high. I kind of need it level.

#3) The unit comes with a block and tackle instead of a winch. I might like that. I will have to see how it works out. Its a 3:1 block so it should be about a 30# pull. I will weight the roof tomorrow. It kind of changes my plan on how I was going to install the cross beams up top but I can deal with that.

#4) The webbing is strictly an added safety but comes with a plastic hook for the back. That has to go, but you can easily just hook the web to the back without the plastic hook. That seems a lot better. Being that its an added safety, It kind of gives me second thoughts on how much they trust the gutters to support the roof.
 

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#2 ·
So I got it connected to my engine crane today. 107 hard top weighs in at 84.1 Lb. With the bar set back as far as I can go the top is level meaning center of gravity CG is close enough. CG location is right about 9.5" forward of the leading edge of the rear window trim.
 

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#3 · (Edited)
This is similar to the one I have and use (with the exception of the legs, extending backward which appear in your pics). The bar "can" be positioned to hang more closely to level, by careful placement on the rain gutters (in my case); however, I do favor a "nose high" presentation when introducing the top to the car.

The web straps... I threw them away a long time ago. I have safety straps which engage the top once in the raised position.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c...-parts-discount-ht-hoist.html?highlight=hoist
 
#5 · (Edited)
My unit is just a straight bar, attached to the rain gutters. Yours seems to have more structure which would add weight to the rear... Seems like un-necessary weight for little benefit.

edit...
I just googled your URO hoist... Seems it is exactly like mine . Weld you a short extension to the bar, extending rearward, and re position your eye for the rope... You could even make it adjustable to achieve your desired level attitude regardless of the bar's position on the rain gutters. :)

https://www.uroparts.com/uro/inventory/show/6954 (yours)
http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/aut...ertible_top_hoist_lift.html?3593=6050&slide=1 (mine)
 

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#6 ·
The legs I'm my picture are from the Hard Top Stand. In that picture its mounted way forward to clear the stand.

Came up with the last problem tonight just after all stores were closed. Apparently the amount or rope supplied with the unit is only long enough to lift the top from the car to about 8' high. You cant even lower it to ground level from an 8' ceiling. Since my hoist is mounted at 12' I'm really screwed for tonight. I need 85 ft of rope so first thing tomorrow.

In any case I got to try out both my new welders MIG and TIG. Last photo is the TIG weld.
 

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#7 ·
I know I have a different model lifter.....

but even if I hadn't, I'd be worried about hanging and lifting the roof by the gutters. and then more so at only two points.
I like the idea of using the roof's own pre-stressed mountings , front and back, better.:nerd
 
#8 ·
but even if I hadn't, I'd be worried about hanging and lifting the roof by the gutters. and then more so at only two points.
I like the idea of using the roof's own pre-stressed mountings , front and back, better.:nerd
I am a little concerned about it. But then again the way MB did it at the factory was by those two trim strips on top. Your lifting with 42Lb on each strip. In looking at the overall design of this lift it appears to be intended to hold the roof suspended for the winter season by the lift, and then they expect you to park your car under it and walk under it. I don't intend to do this. I have a shelf that folds up under it that I can rest it on. They also give you a 6:1 ratio block and tackle system which I intend to reduce to about 3:1 or 4 :1. My guess is they were concerned about the cleat pulling out of the wall so 6:1 would leave only 15# at the cleat.
 
#9 ·
Before you make that trip to the store for more rope you might look into getting an electric hoist from Harbor Freight. Bought mine for $79 with a coupon and it is rated for 450 lbs. which is plenty for the hardtop - and all you have to do is push a button.

I'm in the process right now of fabricating a lift using Panzer Puffs rig as a guide. I found a pair of aluminum running boards from a Toyota Rav4 for free that I am cutting up to use. I already have lifting straps that I purchased from Ecklers but I don't trust the little hooks they use at the attaching points - they are strong enough but just don't "wrap" enough - I'm in California so you know earthquakes! I looked at the URO rig but I too don't like supporting the top by the rain gutters.
 
#10 ·
I picked up 2 today. I tried the new rope and I was hopeful but it turned out to suck. I was trying to hold off on the electric winches because I knew they would be a bitch to install.. In fact this whole job has been a real PIA without scaffolding. I spent two days on it and not even half done.

So first winch is mounted. Electricity needs to be run and pendant wire needs to be lengthened. Plus I will need a different pulley because the plastic one I have will probably not take the load when supporting the load with one pass of a small diameter steel cable.

I would purchase scaffolding but then I would need to build another rack on the ceiling to store it.
 
#11 ·
Got to test out the hoist today. It seams to work really well.

Still need to finish up. I need to hook it up electrically. I found that if I hook it up to the lighting circuit it will be really easy as I have boxes in close enough proximity for both hoist to connect to without any additional length of chord. I will need to turn the lights on to use it but I don't know when I will be in there with them off anyway.

The pendent I will have to lengthen as it is too high and I wont be able to reach it at all with a car in place.

I have a new pulley on order from McMaster to replace the plastic ones that came with the block and tackle. Putting a wire rope at full load (No block and tackle reduction) over that plastic pulley wont last.

I also need to figure out a way of putting the safety stop up top. I had to remove the safety switch from the hoist as it will no longer come in contact with the weight since it will be driving over a pulley. So I need to make a mount that will hold it with a micro switch just below the pulley.
 

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#12 ·
I have a new pulley on order from McMaster to replace the plastic ones that came with the block and tackle. Putting a wire rope at full load (No block and tackle reduction) over that plastic pulley wont last.
One thing to consider if you choose to eliminate the block and tackle... SPEED! Inching the top down via electric winch without the block and tackle may be a bit un-nerving (most I have seen are too fast if sheaved 1:1) The 3:1 block supplied with the hoist provides slower rope take-up.

Another concern to consider is "coasting". without the mechanical advantage of the block, the hoist may coast a bit when stopped...
 
#19 ·
Well I finally completed the fabrication of the first hoist. I will be copying it before I put it up for the second hoist. Spent all day on this today, mostly trying to figure out how to hook up the safety switch. All that's left now is paint electrical and reinstall. Hopefully I will be able to clone the second one tomorrow. and get that ready for install.

Sorry no pics for the moment BW is not accepting them.
 
#20 ·
First hard top hoist is complete except for electrical connections. I need to get some wire terminals to rewire the control.

Second hoist has all fabrication complete except for some welding that needs to be done after its fit in place. One thing I noticed was that the two hoists are different enough that I had to make a slight mod to the hoist mounts and the safety switch mount. The wire colors to the controller are also different.

Maybe the pics will load tonight.
 

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#21 ·
Got all the parts for the hoist and got it all installed with the exception of the safety switch. The safety switch mount is being painted and I still need to make a simple cover for the switch box. Going up is really nice but coming down does appear to be a challenge with the sudden stops. Not sure if running a block and tackle will help for the bounce when its stopped. It will go slower but may bounce more, I don't know?

 
#22 ·
Damn nice. As always you do good work.
 
#23 ·
nice work there

it makes mine look like what it is, which is something knocked-up by a man scratching the back of his head, very hard.

on the whole bounce/jolt issue, won't running a block and tackle minimise it to the same extent that it confers mechanical advantage. So running a 2:1 doubles your power, but halves your progress, does it not do the same to the deceleration rate of the top, halving the effect of the jolt.
 
#24 ·
One hoist is complete. Had to make some modifications of the safety switch but now all is well. Haven't tried it with a car yet but I think I have a plane on how to deal withe the jolt without issues. I do like the speed it goes up and down at so I will see how that works out before I try a 2:1 reduction.
 

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#28 ·
I can almost say its done. Both units completely installed and working. Samsons hard top is up and out of the way.

Just two thing left to do.

1) Make a bracket to store the pendant cords.

2) Order a second URO HT lift bar.
 

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#32 ·
All complete as of today. Mounted two hose hangers for the pendant cable and installed 2 lanyards to hold the pendants.

It's all complete as far as work is concerned but I'm still waiting to the second URO lift.

Nice to have my Hard tops out of the way.
 

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#34 ·
I've been thinking about one of these, but my garage ceiling is low, and I've got a great big beam right across the center. I'd have to mount it so the top went behind that beam. I also need it to be high enough to clear my ML320 when it's in the garage.

How far down is the top from the mounting point?
 
#39 ·
Finally got my HT covers in.

I need covers for these because I have issues with mud wasps. Hopefully these will keep them out.

URO had a great idea for these but they missed a bit. It is clear that these covers were made to work with the URO HT hoist bar but I guess they assumed you weren't going to use the straps with these covers. I say it was that was there intent because they cut slots for the side mounts but non for the straps. I guess they also intended us to be quite happy lifting our tops and having them hang free in the wind. They did not provide any holes for the pegs to come through so I had to cut mine to let the pegs come through the bottom.
 

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#40 ·
I had to cut the cover as well, but created flaps that fold over (velcro) to cocoon the top. I admit that I am not crazy about the lift points being the gutters (the lift frame came with the car) but I use ratcheting straps to further hold the top to the lift points for added protection (also added 2 to the garage ceiling to hold at the B pillar mount points when lifted up)

I will probably look to make or buy a new lift bar...some of the ones on line are great designs though not cheap and the ingenious ones on this site are intriguing
 
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