560SL: center console wood refinishing - Mercedes-Benz Forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
BenzWorld Junior Member
 
Erik Berglund's Avatar
 
Date registered: Mar 2017
Vehicle: 1987 560SL
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Garage
(Thread Starter)
560SL: center console wood refinishing

I kind of liked the cracked-look on the shifter/power window console, but now I've lost a couple large flakes, and need to make it "purdy" again.

I'd like to refinish it myself, maybe try to get close to the honey color of the original burled walnut and have it at least similar to the climate control/radio wood.

Anyone have any advice for re-finishing/sealing/varnishing and/or removal of the console and shifter bracket?

Best,

Erik
Erik Berglund is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:14 AM
BenzWorld Elite
 
dugald's Avatar
 
Date registered: Dec 2006
Vehicle: 1986 560 SL
Location: Sarnia Ontario Canada
Posts: 6,837
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Quoted: 656 Post(s)
dugald is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:31 AM
BenzWorld Elite
 
mach4's Avatar
 
Date registered: Jul 2011
Vehicle: 380SL diesel
Location: San Diego County
Posts: 1,254
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Quoted: 204 Post(s)
There are countless ways to finish wood. The one I've used with great success is to

- strip the old finish by soaking in acetone. Use a sealed container and a few ounces of acetone - it doesn't need to be submerged as the fumes will do the job. Be patient, this can take up to a week. When ALL the old finish has flaked off you're done. Don't rush it. Remove all plastic components as the acetone will dissolve them and make a huge mess

- very lightly sand the surface with 1200 grit or 0000 steel wool - just enough to knock off any grain that's raised. Let me repeat - VERY lightly.... in most cases this step won't be needed.

- shoot the wood with a good two-part catalyzed polyurethane automotive clear coat. Follow the directions on the technical sheet but usually this means 10 minutes or so between coats. Give it 5-6 or more coats and let it cure overnight. Get all your coats in at once following the spec sheet and sanding as directed. you'll need to wait a week (typically) to recoat if you don't.

- if you want an even better finish than what you see at this point, you can cut and buff to get a truly flat, mirror finish


If you don't have a compressor and spray gun, you can use some rattle can automotive clear for acceptable results. I use this method occasionally on wood pens I make, but they're not typically sitting out in direct sun and can be finished, buffed and polished on the lathe.

You'll find other opinions, but I'd personally avoid any brush-on materials, varnish, lacquer, shellac, epoxy, anything water based, anything that doesn't have serious UV protection, anything from the big box stores

You've opened a can of worms....let the opinions roll!

Good luck
mach4 is offline  
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:00 AM
Moderator
 
rowdie's Avatar
 
Date registered: Jun 2008
Vehicle: 1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
Location: OklaMoKan
Posts: 29,699
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
To remove the shifter wood.
Remove ash tray
Remove two phillips screws and remove the ash tray frame' Right side first because the plug is on the left side.

Remove two screws at the front of the wood panel and gentle push the panel backward. If you are lucky the the rear view mirror switch will pop up at the front so it can be removed. There is a plastic pin on the inside of the back that slides into the console. It is easy break.
rowdie is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:09 AM
BenzWorld Veteran
 
Hillingdoner's Avatar
 
Date registered: Oct 2015
Vehicle: 1977 450 sl
Location: Monterey, CA ABQ, NM
Posts: 697
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Quoted: 146 Post(s)
In redoing mine I found a few things I'll add.

As mentioned, be really careful of the veneer as it is thin and you can possibly hook and edge and chip it too.

If your existing top coat has been cracked and bits missing off it for a while then there is a good chance you will have some staining/dirt lines or portions in the wood once you strip it. How far you want to take the wood down to try and sand these out is up to your discretion and bravery.

I was extremely careful in redoing mine. Clean, no touch with hands, wipe downs etc. etc. Followed directions on the refinish products and still had issues with fisheyes. Stripped and redid the whole thing twice as a result! Ended up calling the manufacturer (sorry don't remember now what I ended up using finally as I tried both brush and spray types) and it came down to having to strip the item and then wash it with mineral spirits to finally get it to work right.

Came out okay. Well, good enough for how I wanted it. Not the glass look factory type thing, but perfectly presentable in my book.
Hillingdoner is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:18 AM
BenzWorld Elite
 
mach4's Avatar
 
Date registered: Jul 2011
Vehicle: 380SL diesel
Location: San Diego County
Posts: 1,254
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Quoted: 204 Post(s)
...more

If I had an extra console, I'd love to try an experiment to attempt to give an enhanced look. In working with exotic woods applying boiled linseed oil to bare wood makes the grain pop, gives a slight warm amber tint and greatly enhances chatoyance. Typically CA glue or shellac is applied with the BLO to catalyze it and seal the surface. CA glue (cyanoacrylate) is not feasible for anything much larger than a pen and normal shellac has wax in it so topcoating with urethane would be problematic. What I believe would work and would love to test would be a BLO/shellac base coat (aka French Polish) to make the wood pop, followed by a de waxed shellac (aka sanding sealer) seal coat and then the normal automotive clear top coat.

I can't recommend this at this point, obviously, but it would be a fun experiment and I'll bet it would work well.
mach4 is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 01:34 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
dugald's Avatar
 
Date registered: Dec 2006
Vehicle: 1986 560 SL
Location: Sarnia Ontario Canada
Posts: 6,837
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Quoted: 656 Post(s)
To me it's a shame how car makers make genuine wood look like imitation by giving it an ultra high gloss finish. They may as well use plastic laminates. I much prefer the modern trend to natural looking "oiled" finishes.
dugald is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 03:32 PM
Outstanding Contributor
 
PanzerPuff's Avatar
 
Date registered: Dec 2013
Vehicle: 1987 560SL
Location: United States Ohio
Posts: 1,527
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Quoted: 604 Post(s)
Definitely ^^ yes on acetone. Don't scrape anything, the veneer is way to fragile.
I put a center console video inside my seat upholstery ditty. It is at time 25:27
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20160625_091430.jpg
Views:	25
Size:	62.0 KB
ID:	2146002  
PanzerPuff is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 03:45 PM
Moderator
 
rowdie's Avatar
 
Date registered: Jun 2008
Vehicle: 1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
Location: OklaMoKan
Posts: 29,699
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
If you are going to use acetone pay attention to mach4. Remove all plastic. On the 560 be careful on the piece around the shifter. It is made of unobtainium. The earlier models are a bit easier to find.
rowdie is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 04:25 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
dugald's Avatar
 
Date registered: Dec 2006
Vehicle: 1986 560 SL
Location: Sarnia Ontario Canada
Posts: 6,837
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Quoted: 656 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdie View Post
If you are going to use acetone pay attention to mach4. Remove all plastic. On the 560 be careful on the piece around the shifter. It is made of unobtainium. The earlier models are a bit easier to find.
Right. I dunno why you'd bother with acetone. A heat gun and a gentle hand with a plastic scraper is quicker and safer.
dugald is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Roadster Forums > R/C107 SL/SLC Class

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mercedes-Benz Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 

Title goes here

close
video goes here
description goes here. Read Full Story
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome