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IWIS master link question

2K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  Ruindr 
#1 · (Edited)
Just got the guides, cam gears, tensioner and chain swapped. Chain is a IWIS and I ordered an extra IWIS master link kit just so I could put fresh on the chain when the old one was out.

Here is the question. Both the chain kit supplied master link and the separate ordered one have two chain end plates included. By that I mean the oval chain side pieces. You can see the pair of them laying next to the spare master link pin portion in this pic.


Why is that? Is it just a spare or are you supposed to put two outer plates on and then the retaining clips? Two might fit at a push, but have not tried.

Here is a picture of the installed master link with just one plate (and one clip, another story there). In all the print outs I did on this job I only saw where they just put a plate on and then the clip. Not two plates anywhere. If not needed then just wonder why it is included?

Could use spare clips of anything. My chain kit had only one clip in it on a sealed package!

 
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#2 · (Edited)
Oh, and a side note, for those who think things are okay with a low mile car. I just bought mine with 130,000 miles on it (not as low as many, but pretty darn low miles).

Here is what I pulled out for guides.



The one guide that is in three pieces is how it came out. Pulled the pins, lifted the guide and only the top part came out. Luckily the smaller piece stayed propped on the lower half as I used some surgical long pliers to pull out the lower half carefully. Thanks to AussieMerc for suggesting I buy those to reach some of the buried vacuum connections on the intake.

The other piece that is missing on the other slide, at the pin area, actually was still attached, but cracked badly. I accidentally dropped the guide on the garage floor and the piece popped right out.

Nice and dark and scored heavily with the chain.

So, count stumping up and doing the timing job myself (even with the small hurdles I've encountered) a blessing and really encourage others to pop off the cam cover on the passenger side and take a look at what your guides look like. Dark and scored? GET THEM CHANGED QUICK!!!! I read all the posts about it and did not have any receipts for having it done. So, combo of miles, but mostly the fact that the car is 38 years old was the decider to get everything changed.
 
#7 ·
!30,00 is way over the recommended replacement. That and it is age and heat cycles not miles. It is IWIS not JWIS chain unless you bought an unheard or replacement..
:grin:grin:grin:grin

IWIS fixed as much as I can fix it in the post

Had JWIS stuck in my brain for some reason. Maybe from a video I saw on the job. Who knows. Probably too numb from the cold in the garage.

The age and heat cycles is exactly what I was alluding to. :wink Thankful I've changed mine!
 
#9 ·
Congratulations on a job well done! I am up for the same task after New Year. I have changed the chain, and now I'm up for the upper guide rails.

Q1:
Does the chain tensioner need to be removed to change the upper guide rails (2 on left bank and one on right bank)? I suspect that would relieve tension from the rails and make it easier to position the new ones? Or is enough to crank a degree or two on the crankshaft bolt to get enough slack on the chain while the new one is put in place?

Q2:
Is it necessary to remove the distributor, or is it enough to remove the alternator and power steering pump to get access to the rail pins? I want to remove as little as possible, since I know Murphy's law is lurking and something unexpected always happen :)

Radiator and fan will anyhow be removed to refurbish the radiator.

Thanks for any suggestions you may have. And I wish you all a HAPPY NEW YEAR!
 
#13 ·
Thanks!

Q1: Remove the tensioner. If you have not replaced it already when you did the chain then I'd replace it. I went with what the majority seem to say and used a Mercedes one. Expensive, but one less thing to worry about and according to everything I saw online, my tensioner was not working correctly.

As a note, you'll need to remove the cam gear/sprocket from the cam to get the plastic guides out.

Also, remove the guides slowly and have plenty of light so you can see down where they install. Don't wish it on you, but as you can see from my pictures, I already had guides broken. If you remove slowly and carefully then any broken piece will stay in place so that you can snag it with a long pair of pliers and pull it out. Watch for splintered sections from the guide pin holes.

As a note, there are four upper guides to replace if you include the long curved tensioner guide, which I would.

Also, pay attention to how each guide in installed orientation wise. That way you know which end is up for sure before you try to put everything together.

On Q2

I removed the distributor. Says to do so in the workshop manual so I followed that and did.

Best of luck with it!

Still not done with mine due to family visits etc., but going to get cracking on it this week and get it done hopefully.
 
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