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Soft top window kit installation

10K views 29 replies 16 participants last post by  cushjbc  
#1 · (Edited)
I decided to replace the plastic windows in my soft top because the fabric part is still in great shape - the windows have deteriorated. I found a kit at r129motoring.com. The kit comes with a sheet of clear window plastic claimed to be more chemically modern than the original, the black rubber seal that goes around the window edge, a set of instructions, a stitching awl loaded with a spool of UV resistant thread, a seam stitch ripper, scissors, retractable razor knife, a pin cushion block, and a set of T-pins to set the new window in place.

My son's BMW Z3 has a plastic rear window with a zipper around it making installation easy. A few months after we replaced his window, the back seam holding the zipper started to separate so I used the stitching awl from my window kit to repair it. This gave me a good practice session to apply to my window project.

For awhile, I considered installing a zipper to the windows in my 107 like BMW and Mazda did. I decided against it when I considered the difficulty of machine sewing the zipper and black rubber seal accurately enough to make the window tight and straight.

Removing the old windows takes about 5 minutes - simply cut the seam closest to the window (inner seam) and the window drops out of the channel. Removing the stitches from the outside and the locking thread from the inside might take an hour or so.

The instructions suggest cutting and installing the center window first. You simply trace out the old window over the sheet of plastic and cut. I used a nice pair of scissors for this instead of a knife. I found that you can make the cut inside the trace mark more accurately with scissors. This insures your new window is not bigger than your old window. The instructions say our windows stretch a bit over the years so cutting slightly (1/16" - 1/8") small is a good idea.

I struggled with the next step because the kit provides 16 T-pins to set the window in place. I bought a box of T pins and used 40 or so to do this. You want the window edge to be fully inserted into the seam channel when you set it. I had to get my wife to help me start this. The top should be completely free to float from the rear lock. Set pins in the corners just to get it started. Shove the window fully into the seam at the top, then at the bottom of one side (I started at the driver's side). Continue with pins along that side of the window then pin top to bottom across the width of the window finishing with a line at the far edge from where you start.

The instructions suggest starting at a lower corner of the center window. At this point, you are stitching the window and the seal into the seam with the stitching awl. There are ample You Tube videos that teach the lock stitch you will be making with the awl. Keeping the awl oriented so the hole in the needle trails the direction of the stitch helps keep things untangled. I also recommend the use of a heavy needle at the end of the locking thread from the inside of the seam - it speeds things up in a painfully slow process.

The instructions suggest use of as much as a 3-1 stitch ratio. I am stitching 1-1 using the original holes from the factory stitch. It looks better and will be stronger.

This project will take some time as the stitching is slow going. Take frequent breaks and sit inside the car to admire your progress and clarity of the new windows as you go . . .
 

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#5 ·
So you have to crawl in and out of the car for each stitch?
For work on the center window, I am able to reach through the removed side window holes to do the work. When it comes to doing the side windows, the instructions suggest lifting the rear bow enough to work from the underside. I think the forward edges of the side windows can be easily reached from the door area (glass windows rolled down).
 
#6 ·
One area of concern I have is the center window tension wire. The plastic coating on that wire is cracked in a couple spots. I can dremel the rough edges away but would like to find a better material to protect the new window rubbing against that wire. Felt or flocking covered conduit . . . any ideas?
 
#15 ·
Thank you for posting this. I will have to bookmark this to show to the upholstery guy I am planning to use for my SLC custom soft top. He said he would not use the bead along the window edge when making my top. I now see that it should not be too hard to add the bead if we can find where to buy it. THANK YOU!
 
#17 ·
I now see that it should not be too hard to add the bead if we can find where to buy it.
Send a note to:

serveme@r129motoring.com

I can get you a phone number when I get home on the 26th. I called him to get another spool of thread for the stitching awl. He set me up with a PayPal transaction and sent it right away. Maybe he would sell you a length of the window seal (bead).

About the window seal . . . it has a half inch tongue that slides into the seam with the plastic window so you are stitching through that and the plastic when you install it. I feathered the tongue at the window corners to help it bend around nicely. The original seal had this (see post 1, picture 3).
 
#18 ·
Send a note to:



serveme@r129motoring.com



I can get you a phone number when I get home on the 26th. I called him to get another spool of thread for the stitching awl. He set me up with a PayPal transaction and sent it right away. Maybe he would sell you a length of the window seal (bead).



About the window seal . . . it has a half inch tongue that slides into the seam with the plastic window so you are stitching through that and the plastic when you install it. I feathered the tongue at the window corners to help it bend around nicely. The original seal had this (see post 1, picture 3).

Thank you SO much! Thank you for the detailed description too. I now think I see exactly what you mean by "feathered".
 
#19 ·
Brad, Very nice job and a well documented article! I was looking at my rear window just yesterday wondering what I could do with it. Some previous owner cut holes through the rear wall and mounted speakers. They later disappeared along with the deck leaving a crack right where the speaker magnet pressed against the plastic window. Replacing the window is a much better solution than patching the cracks.

Does the manufacturer recommend any particular treatment to keep the plastic flexible and clear?

GD
 
#20 ·
Does the manufacturer recommend any particular treatment to keep the plastic flexible and clear?
The instructions discuss cleaning only with cotton on a wet surface. I have quit using cheap microfiber which apparently is made out of recycled plastic bottles. I plan to get / make a nice terry cloth towel to lay over the windows when I go top down.

We'll see how long that lasts.

The big sheet of plastic has a manufacture stamp in it. I'll take a look at that when I get home - maybe see if more information comes out of it.
 
#21 ·
Big Window Finished

I was away from home for 3 weeks - finished the rear center window this morning. Thought I'd post some pictures along with lessons learned. I would rather do this by posting a picture and then posting comments below that picture but I can't figure out how to do that without pulling pictures from a website.

The most important thing I've found with this project is setting the window into the channel with lots of T-pins. I found that pinning the window deep in the channel allows space to pin the seal shallow in the channel. The first picture illustrates this. I turned the seal pins perpendicular to the seam to show the difference. The scratches you see on my soft top cover were caused by my wedding ring (ring removed; scratches buffed out).

It is important to keep the stitching awl oriented correctly to prevent the lock stich from tangling when you pull the awl out. On my awl, I kept an eye on the screw that holds the spool in place (screw head towards window - threads away from window). It sounds like it would not matter but when the awl is inserted, it is difficult at times to see the trailing loop created when you start to pull the awl out. If you thread the leading loop, you get a tangle. I learned how to start the stich by applying pressure to the back seam with 2 fingers and carefully stitching between them. At the point where the awl pierces through, I used a finger nail to keep the inner seam flush. This makes for a good stitch. If you don't do it, the back seam will have ripples and the window will not be as tight as it should. [Pics 2 thru 4]

Stitching the corners takes patience and attention to setting the seal as deep into the channel as it will go. Feathering the tongue of the seal helps it turn the corner but causes the potential to miss when setting the pins. My lower right corner did not come out as well as I would have liked. I also was disappointed with my cut at the end of the job. In retrospect, it would have been better to start sewing about 2 inches to the right of where I did so a more accurate butt joint could be made with the seal. [Pics 5 thru 7]

The last picture is the finished center window - all cleaned up with the soft top cinched fully down in the back. I am happy with the fit, clarity and improved look of the window area. I think the side windows will go quicker as there is not as much to stitch and I have gained some skill with this awl.
 

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#24 ·
Thanks for all the kind words - finished the driver's side window this morning. These small windows are difficult to pin in place. I was able to do the lockstitch (inside part) on the forward two thirds by reaching through the open driver's door window. The aft corner was done by lifting and lowering the rear bow each stitch. I shifted the start point away from the corner to a relatively flat spot on the bottom to help make a better joint of the rubber seal. This one came out better but still not perfect.

This window took about 3 hours to stitch. I spent about 7 hours on the big window. I took lots of breaks because it is tedious. One more to go . . . will try to finish Monday.
 

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#29 ·
Did you consider dismounting the top frame from the chassis to ease access?
I did consider that - decided to go with methods from the instructions which did not require removal. Now that I've done most of the job, I would recommend leaving the top in place. There are a few tough reach areas but no show stoppers.

So far, two things I would do differently if I had to repeat the job:

1. Start stitching on a section with a straight edge to make a nice closing joint of the seal
2. Cut the window without the glass logo - there was enough material to do this
 
#30 ·
Project finished this morning

I finished this project with the passenger side window this morning. Overall, I am very pleased with this kit for the problem I had. I drove the car around town running errands shortly after these pictures were taken - world of difference in visibility from the inside.

I did the last bit out in the driveway and found out that the sun softens the black rubber seal making it easier to make a good joint at the end. I used the stitching awl to mend a few rough spots elsewhere on the soft top. It is a good tool to have for ragtop owners.
 

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