Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

How to remove... From 1972 350sl

5K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  Fonzi 
#1 ·
I am posting in a request for help to carefully remove a few parts from the 1972 350sl 4.5 that I get a few opportunities to visit in the middle of the night on my way home from work. It's dark, and I keep forgetting to being better tools. Tonight I have a big list of d-jet parts I need to pull, and think most should be easy. (I will post in here how I got to the power front antenna and other things.) But there are two that scare me:
- ECU wiring connection
- ignition assembly from the steering column. (I have already popped the back wiring off accidentally.)

So my ECU is hanging by the wiring harness, and I only want to remove the ECU without destroying the wiring harness. Any help?


And the dash is removed, and I turned the key to position 2 and got the cover off, and I loosened the c-clamp I thought was holding the steering lock to the column, but it just jiggles now. I was hoping it would slide right out. Any ideas?




Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
See less See more
#3 ·
Back in a minute or ten with picture.

Okay. Blue is clamp. Red circle is the pin that has to be pushed in while wiggling the lock assembly out. You do have the tumbler out and cover off, right?

Thank you!!! That little pin is my issue. I got the chrome cover off but didn't take out the tumbler. Is that necessary?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#4 ·
I don't know. It only adds a couple of mm so probably not. The off white piece at the bottom right fits around the chrome cap and tumbler so I can see it being in the way. I pulled the tumbler and cap years ago and don't really remember. I pulled the lock assembly just recently so I do remember that part. Good luck.
 
#5 ·
I was hoping to get both parts intact, but the main reason was really to get all the locks and sell them as a lock set. I don't have a buyer. So there is no urgency.

On the ECU, I need to figure that one out. Maybe I better get over there during the daylight this evening.

I will also lose my virginity or pulling gas tanks and fuel senders. Never did that one before either.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#6 ·
I am posting in a request for help to carefully remove a few parts from the 1972 350sl 4.5 that I get a few opportunities to visit in the middle of the night on my way home from work.
Just keep your shirt on.

No one needs to see that on the next episode of "Cops".
 
#8 · (Edited)
Got the ECU. Just needed some light. Didn't figure out the ignition but got all the engine bay stuff and almost took lithe intake manifold too, but stopped there. Tomorrow I need to get the fuel sender and fuel pump.


Turns out that this is pretty hard work!


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#9 ·
Oh. I should have asked about the pin for the door check. The driver came out, but I just had to destroy the passenger door check because I haven't been keeping a cutter in the truck. Time to start carrying an angle grinder and long extension cord.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#11 ·
I wouldn't even leave it parked in the same State.... :D:D
 
#14 ·
How's the disassembly going Fonz?
Can you tell me if the centre console is in good condition, or is it broken near the radio / heater control panel etc?
 
#17 ·
Ahh I missed that other thread.

Only reason I'm asking, is I am looking for a 'donor' console - so I can take a fibreglass mold from it. It doesn't need to be in good condition as such, but the shape has to still be in tact.

they always seem to spread at the top where it fits the dash, and at the bottom front edge near the heater box.

Of course we got the centre handbrake, and as such the rear edge has a relief cut from it and a little plastic cover over the exposed foam. That's not really a worry. I just need one in good 'shape' (which is why the plastic below the radio aperture is important, as you know - they are always broken there from aftermarket radio installations or radio theft...
 
#18 ·
Sorry. This one would have been a bad mold. I will keep my eyes peeled. The easiest thing would be to keep an eye on ebay because it would come in a box. That's worth $50+ to me.

Here's the status of the parts car. Sorry for the terrible thread:




Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#24 · (Edited)
Soft top... It was very easy and basically self explanatory. I removed as many if the locking mechanicals as I could first, and then the two bolts per side on the brackets that hold the soft top frame on the car. I counted the shims on each side. When I installed on my other car, I tried to use the same number of shims that were used prior, but kept dropping bolts into the holes in the b-pillar. On ones side I have up and didn't use the shims.

Dash:
I removed the center console and glove box and cluster first. Then there were bolts along the bottom where the plastic panels attach. There was one I missed on the left side of the steering column, but otherwise they were easy to find. Then there were three top bolts inside the dash, one center, two sides. I think that was it. Then I had difficulty getting it out because the defrost vents were stuck. I imagine these need to be attached to the dash prior to the install, but I honestly don't know how. I ripped them off before pulling the dash out, and it finally came out without too much fuss.

Torsion rods:
After removing the fuel tank, I had much better clearance, and despite my knowledge of this being a dangerous job, I could use some torsion rods on my brown 1979 280sl. So I went for it. The one attached to the right trunk hinge did less damage. I assume this was attached to the right/passenger trunk hinge and the left/driver soft top boot hinge, both of which had plenty of spring. I removed the two (or three?) center supports for the torsion rods and then pried with my big screwdriver. Despite my hands and arms being nowhere near the torsion rod, when it popped out, it whacked my forearm. No damage.
The other side, which appears to only be attached to the driver/left trunk lid hinge (not the passenger/right soft top cover hinge because that was under no spring tension at all that I could tell) was harder. It did to seem to come out as easily, and maybe I was scared after being whipped in the arm. The screwdriver pry-out method didn't seem to work. So I put vice grips on the boot lid hinge to destroy it. I pulled away the tab until the torsion rod whipped my right hand index finger knuckle so hard that four days later it still hurts and is swollen. I had leather work gloves on that don't have leather on the back side. I highly recommend long full leather and padded gloves for this job. I think I probably should have had a full face shield on too. If I ever stamped anything with these torsion rods again, I will probably wear my welding gear, even the leather best. No BS. I was hasty and there was another guy working on a part out watching me so this dangerous job. So I knew that there was at least someone to call 911 for me.


[l]
 
#25 ·
So I will try to update the thread with pics on the above items later. But now comes for my request for info from the forum....

What's the easiest way to get the 560 subframe out of this car? Should I try to find a way to support the engine from above? Or would the oil pan be sufficient?

Vehicle Car


Sorry for the horrible pic above, but you can see the fenders are gone. So a kitty-litter-bags-plus-fender-support method probably won't work, but maybe something can bolt to the interior fenders where the exterior fenders did previously.

Below, you can see I've got the car up on cinder blocks. The rear driver blocks aren't carrying any weight, and it would be very easy to lower the rear end. I have removed the wheels, but could easily put any required wheels back on.
Land vehicle Car Vehicle Luxury vehicle Classic car


I have been told that a great way to remove the engine and subframe is to put the front wheels on the ground (maybe on blocks for added height) and disconnect the subframe and trans and diff. Then jack up the body off the drivetrain. A w114 guy near me swears that that's they way MB must have assembled these cars.

Any thoughts on the easiest way for me to get that subframe out? I care more about the 560sl subframe than the 51,000 mile drivetrain.





Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top