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Old 06-23-2013, 09:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Dec 2011
Vehicle: 82 380SL, 75 450SL, 59 TR3A, 64 TR4, 66 250SL, 69 280SE, 75 450Sl, 79 450SEL
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450SL Exhaust Manifold

Almost done swapping the '75 catalytic converter-laden manifolds for a pair of clean '78's. Ran into a problem on the left side: How do you reach the rear lower exhaust manifold stud to install the last bolt? It seems impossible to reach from any angle but there has to either be a trick someone has devised or maybe something obvious that I am missing. The brake booster makes it impossible to reach around it and get it from the rear. Would taking the valve cover housing off make it possible to reach from above? I suppose I could make a cut-out in the inner fender from the wheel well, and go in through the wheel well. That seems drastic. I also guess I could detach the engine mounts, which I just replaced. and try to jack the engine up as high as it will go. I guess I could also ignore the bolt altogether and hope the other 7 hold everything tight. (I say this because my '82 380SL was missing a top bolt at the front right manifold and, despite that, it didn't leak at all). Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Left as in the drivers side or passenger side? You may try to disconnect the motor mounts and lift the engine a little. Or drop the sub frame on side (and disconnect the shock absorber).
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You posted previously that you had done this on two other 75/76 450SL's. Was this not an issue on those cars?

I'm in the process of fabricating an O2 sensor port that will go where my car's EGR valve is currently installed. Removing the damn EGR has been maddening because the steel tube that connects to it seems to need removal first, and getting to its various attachments seems to require removing the radiator. No matter.. I've wanted to replace the car's stock fan and clutch with an electric unit since I bought the car, so this has been added to the project. The CA air pump will depart with te EGR when all this is said and done. My goal is to hollow out my car's stock cats and replace them with a single under-car cat like later models had.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alabbasi View Post
Left as in the drivers side or passenger side? You may try to disconnect the motor mounts and lift the engine a little. Or drop the sub frame on side (and disconnect the shock absorber).


His reference to brake booster interference tells me he's viewing it from the driver's seat.


The correct way.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tips. I have finished the replacement and nothing leaks. I had to re-route the pipe to the EGR valve because the '78 exhaust manifold canted it differently than the '75 manifold. Used unions, pipe, and sweat fittings to re-route it.

Two issues, potentially related: 1) The exhaust, consisting of the manifolds, a resonator and muffler, now sounds more like a mid-'60's piece of Detroit iron than the smooth sound it made before. (Vroom-vroom) Can this be because there is no catalytic converter at all? 2) I live in Arizona and the car has to pass emissions in December. I am looking for a recommendation as to which catalytic converter to buy. I know that it is supposed to replace the resonator. Looking for comments on the exhaust sound and for a choice of converter.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdichter View Post
Thanks for the tips. I have finished the replacement and nothing leaks. I had to re-route the pipe to the EGR valve because the '78 exhaust manifold canted it differently than the '75 manifold. Used unions, pipe, and sweat fittings to re-route it.

Two issues, potentially related: 1) The exhaust, consisting of the manifolds, a resonator and muffler, now sounds more like a mid-'60's piece of Detroit iron than the smooth sound it made before. (Vroom-vroom) Can this be because there is no catalytic converter at all? 2) I live in Arizona and the car has to pass emissions in December. I am looking for a recommendation as to which catalytic converter to buy. I know that it is supposed to replace the resonator. Looking for comments on the exhaust sound and for a choice of converter.
Glad to finally find this string!

I have an '80 SLC. I found a full system from a '77 SLC with glasspacks where the resonator was.

I have not attempted to install this yet.

How did you resolve the issue with the driver side interference?

Also, did you have to modify any flanges?

Did you need additional parts?

Any and all information is appreciated. The more the better!
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have a few other later posts on the exhaust manifold/catalytic converter change over. The issue with the '75 107 car was the exhaust manifold mounted catalytic converters. What I did to solve the issue of getting to the left (US driver's side) rear lower manifold bolts was to remove the five bolts that held the converter to the front of the exhaust manifold and drop the down pipe. No emissions for an '80 in Nevada, I guess? In Arizona, everything from '67 on has to pass emissions, absent some exemptions (classic car insurance; driven only to auto shows, for example). So, I needed to retain the EGR valve and the air pump because when the emissions control people entered the VIN number the screen told them to look for both. The '80 450SL did not have the catalytic converters on the exhaust manifolds so raising the engine should be sufficient to reach the bolts relatively easily.
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Old 02-08-2014, 04:19 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Correct. The Cat's on the '80 are in the down pipe and aft the o2 sensor. Also, as a classic there is no smog checking. The car is being brought to Euro specs (cam, exhaust, throttle body).

The bolts have not been difficult to get to using a lift and the proper tools. It does require a L-shaped 11 mm wrench to hold a bolt. We are having to cut the bolts out though.
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Old 02-19-2014, 09:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thought I would circle back and complete this post as well. The Flowmaster or glass-pack sound I was getting from the first driver's side (US left-side) exhaust manifold existed because whomever I bought it from had disassembled it at the bellows for ease of shipment. I was told that this should never have been done. So, a $150 mistake on E-Bay. The second time, I bought the exhaust manifold off a 560SL being parted out and got 15mm tubing hardware (elbows and unions) to slightly re-route the EGR valve. One add-on catalytic converter at Mighty Muffler on Cave Creek Road later, and it sailed through Arizona emissions, which definitely appeared to be somewhat of a surprise to the guys working the emissions line,who first had to figure out why the 1975 VIN number and the computer did not seem to align properly. Where were the letters, they wanted to know? In 1980, I said. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. Between everyone here, I am sure that I have saved at least $5,000 on the 75 450SL and 82 380SL since I got them in December 2011.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:15 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Vehicle: 1975 450SL/4.5L
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Had my entire exhaust inspected on my 75 450SL and found out that the cats on mine have been gutted and the EGR valve has been capped. Had everything from the down pipes on back replaced and seems to be running good. I'll let it run until it's up to temp, open the hood and the temp in the engine bay is actually pretty cool.

Now i'm in the process of redoing all the wiring because it's all in pretty bad shape.
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