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Old 12-01-2012, 06:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks,

that is the information I needed, almost like a GM differential.

I am originally from Germany and went through a 3 year apprenticeship program at a Unimog dealership (72-75). So I have been working as a mechanic for a long time (on Army stuff since 76). I had well over a 100 different vehicles and pride myself to do all my repairs (except the new electronic stuff). I also had numerous other MB's but the 560SL has to be the most difficult one to work on. Probably because they shoehorned all the S-class mechanics into the small 107 chassis.

If it wasn't for this forum and you guys I would have a really hard time with my SL adventure.

Last edited by 71_340; 12-04-2012 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 71_340 View Post
Thanks,

that is the information I needed, almost like a GM differential.

I am originally from Germany and went through a 3 year apprenticeship program at a Unimog dealership (72-75). So I have been working as a mechanic for a long time (on Army stuff since 76). I had well over a 100 different vehicles and pride myself to do all my repairs (except the new electronic stuff). I also had numerous other MB's but the 560SL has to be the most difficult one to work on. Probably becuase they shoehorned all the S-class mechanics into the small 107 chassis.

If it wasn't for this forum and you guys I would have a really hard time with my SL adventure.
Its exactly like a GM. While you are in there you may want to consider replacing those clutch friction disks. That gets a bit pricy but you are there.
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hello. I hope these pdf files help you.

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o...hassis/B35.pdf
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o...sis/35-010.pdf

Let me know if these help you.
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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PDF file

I found those two in the manual I downloaded.

The only thing I need now is the bearing preload torque value when tightening down the pinion nut. If I can't get the info I guess I'll go with about 15-20 inch pounds....pretty standard value across the board.

Just ordered the three seals and new pinion nut from partsgeek.com, the seals are OEM only and are not available from the local parts stores. Might as well replace them while I have the differential out.

I will leave the friction discs alone, I already spent enough money in the past three weeks on preventive maintenance and repairs.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If you haven't disassembled it yet, measure how much turning force is needed and use that as a reference. That is what I do if I can't find any info. I check my torques with my torque wrench in newton meters. That is the only thing I can think of at this moment. Hope all goes well.
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