If you can get in there with a tool, just put a new connector on the end. That way, you have the problem fixed, you won't have to worry about it again.
Just as a tip: You can go to a better auto parts store, and get a 'weatherproof' connector. These are connectors that have a piece of heat-shrink tubing that has 'hot-melt' glue inside it. When you heat it up, the tubing shrinks and the glue melts giving you a watertight seal.
You might want to have your battery checked, a charged, good, lead-acid battery should be around 13.5 volts. If your charging system has something wrong (say, such as a loose connection), you might not be charging it. Your problem with the bad connector could be the cause of both your problems. I noticed that my car was harder to start when the battery was going out on me last spring.
Ok, I was able to get into the online service manual, and do some tracing on the wiring schematic. If that is the smaller of the two wires hooked to that termnal, you have the root cause of your charging system problems. That is the main battery voltage feed from the alternator. When it's not making contact, the voltage from the alternator isn't being fed back to the battery, to recharge it. Other connections may take some of the voltage to power you while the car is running, but the battery won't charge.
The blue box on the attached close-up from the schematic is the alternator end of the wire, while the red box is the starter end. You'll see that one wire goes from the battery to the diagnostic plug to the starter, that is the main power to crank the starter (largest cable) and the other wire (the loose one) is going to the Alternator (the schematic is chopped up a bit, so some items are cut up). The smaller wire is the feed from the alternator that sends juice back to the battery to recharge it.
Get that thing back home where it belongs, and your life should rapidly improve. At least in this area.
Edit: Finally got the upload to work.
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OK, what's going on here? my upload isn't showing.
Trying again
Edit:
Still no upload of drawing, do uploads have to be approved by mods???
Edit:
Ok, got it figured out. Had to add the file extension. *nix doesn't rely on them like the DOS based systems do, so the programs don't add them automatically.
Finally had a chance to try to fix the starter again and when I jacked the car I noticed fluid leaking again. It sounds like it's being pooled and leaks when the car is tilted. I've added video here:
That looks like engine oil? If so it seems too much to be a rear main seal.
Check your cam cover gaskets. There's a block drain in the center valley under the intake manifold. If there's a cam cover leak into the valley that oil drains down the bell housing at some point. Check the CLAP thread for a pic of the valley drain.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isthisdave
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That looks like engine oil? If so it seems too much to be a rear main seal.
Check your cam cover gaskets. There's a block drain in the center valley under the intake manifold. If there's a cam cover leak into the valley that oil drains down the bell housing at some point. Check the CLAP thread for a pic of the valley drain.
That there is some smart thinking. I was trying to think of where in the world oil could be pooling that high on the engine. You nailed that Q.
At first I was thinking of dirty coolant, but it really does look like oil.
That would have to be the filthiest trans fluid, and it would make no sense that thanks fluid would leak from the front of the trans when the car is tilted up in the front.
Oil from the valley is a good bet. ... But how it gets there is the interesting part. Is the head gasket more likely to leak pressurized oil?
Notice that in addition to the lack of oil pressure, the oil would have to get around the intake manifold gasket before getting into the valley.
The valve cover gaskets certainly are easier to check though. Right?
R107 Parts Wanted:washer bottle (1978), blue r107 visors, 107 trunk spare tire well, 107 headlight wiper arms
w107 FS/trade/giveaway: 4 silver BBS RS009 8x16 et11 (won't fit front of 560sl without spacers and smaller lips), D-jet parts, 1975: (wiper motor, multiswitch, coil, injectors, etc.), US headlights, a black 1973 450sl
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