I was going to ask you, what material did you use for the seals and what-not in your pictures? and is that the same material you used to seal the box? Mine is almost non-existant so I have no idea what it looked like. The same is true of my vent flaps--most of its gone. No rust though, thank God.
I was going to ask you, what material did you use for the seals and what-not in your pictures? and is that the same material you used to seal the box? Mine is almost non-existant so I have no idea what it looked like. The same is true of my vent flaps--most of its gone. No rust though, thank God.
By vent flaps do you mean the fresh air ones under the grille on the hood?
The stuff Roncallo used is like the foam under the hood. I know because I asked him last year and bought some from MB. The original foam looked like it may have been sprayed on some of the flaps. However the foam on the top flap (the oval one) on mine is rubber and was still fine so I left it. I had to replace all the others though. I eventually used EVA foam (don't know what that stands for). The rubber guy told me it lasts better than regular foam which can/will disintegrate. Only time will tell if I made the right choice. It was a thinner than the MB stuff and a little easier to work with. Either way the foam is not expensive.
I used 3M 90 spray adhesive which was recommended for hood pads so should be ok in a heater box. You may find you have to trim the short edges of some of the flaps or they may be too tight. You may also have to drill out some rivets.
Water in the driver's footwell might be from above the screen or the A pillar or the screen itself, but many of us have found either blocked drain pipes (through the transmission tunnel) and/or a hole in the scuttle where the blower motor mounts. Usually the front 2 bolts. Mine had both. There is a design flaw in the blower motor area- there is no drain - large amounts of water drain via the 4 drains in the box itself but a small amount sits around the mount bolt and rusts happily away until 20 years later when we get wet feet! There are other drains in the scuttle you should check. Put a funnel with a vinyl tube down each drain and pour water in one at a time. You may even feel it blocked by squeezing each rubber drain tube from the underside of the scuttle. Fixing a hole causing a leak was why I took out my dash and box.
Last edited by Aussiemerc; 06-22-2012 at 02:03 AM.
Reason: amend
"By vent flaps do you mean the fresh air ones under the grille on the hood?"
Yes. It appears to be rubber which I can locate and cut to fit. Unless it too is some kind of foam rubber.
Thanks, Aussie, I do appreciate it.
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The rubber seal on the cavity in the scuttle is quite complex but you can create one. Its a soft rubber seal, not foam (that would leak). I made one because they wanted a fortune for a new one. The flaps themselves should also have two strip seals each on top (just straight), I have pics of all of them somewhere if yours are gone.
Last edited by Aussiemerc; 06-22-2012 at 03:35 PM.
Reason: amend
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The rubber seal on the cavity in the scuttle is quite complex but you can create one. Its a soft rubber seal, not foam (that would leak). I made one because they wanted a fortune for a new one. The flaps themselves should also have two strip seals each on top (just straight), I have pics of all of them somewhere if yours are gone.
Thanks guys. I'm not sure I have anything left over on the fresh air vents except some very hard flat material which I cannot see sealing much of anything....
Vehicle: 1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
Location: CT
Posts: 5,368
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertinMn
hey Ron, did you rebuild your vacuum pods? I ordered new ones already, but just curious if it was possible to rebuild them.
I purchased new ones. They are rebuildable, but I don't want 25 year old plastic in a place that was that dificult to change. Especially seing how the heater box cracked with age.
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