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Question on Paintless Dent Removal (PDR)

7K views 24 replies 14 participants last post by  miko1aj 
#1 · (Edited)
I've got 2-3 small, shallow dents on my 560SL otherwise my body is in a 99/100 shape with its original paint, Black in color. I'd like to get them (dents) eventually repaired and am contemplating use of a PDR service vs a conventional body-shop method of beating them out, filler, sanding and re-paint.

Two are on the topsides of my front fenders (likely from prior work being performed under the hood and improper fender protection), and a 3rd located on my right rear qtr panel. My paintwork in these areas does not show evidence of being fractured.

I am curious if a Paintless Dent Removal (PDR) process would work in repairing these and if any forum members have used a PDR service with success.

My understanding is that there are varying processes/procedures used by some PDR service providers, i.e. some of which require access to the back/inner side of the body panels to carefully "massage" out small dents using small mallets, rubber hammers, etc while others do not require access to the backside and use either Nitrogen, suction, or some other process.

So again - anyone have experience using a PDR process and if so, what type was used and what was the end result?

I thought I'd ask the forum before going to one of these PDR services and being told by them that "they can fix any small dent"...only to end up with something that could be worse than the existing condition.

Thanks.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
I've done PDR on my E320 daily driver and my prior daily driver. In both situations a single ding in the center of a door panel. Each instance took about 20 minutes for the tech to do the job and afterwards absolutely no evidence the ding had ever been there. No after effects.

JeffInOKC is the man to tell you whether the ding can be done with PDR. I believe he sends vehicles in his shop for repair to PDR when that method can be used. The tech must be able to reach the back side of the panel in question with his tools. Jeff should be able to tell you if your damage is a candidate.

Stating the obvious, only use a PDR tech who has good reputation and references.

I have one very small place on my left front fender panel which can only be seen at certain angles and certain light which I plan to do PDR.

Cheers,
 
#4 ·
Gents, Thanks.

I'm travelling overseas on business at this time and need to take a closer look once back home as to whether or not access to the underside of these dents can be gained relatively easily. I suspect that for my 2-topside front fender dents, removal of the inner wheel shrouds will be needed unless there is another PDR available process to consider as an alternative.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Certainly there are better ones than others. My main concern when using PDR is how they access it. Some will drill holes and use rubber plugs to fill the access hole they just drilled. Try and avoid drilling holes into your car...make them work for access to the dent you want removed. I have removed door panels for them so they won't drill holes into my car. Tops of the fender PDR is usually accessed by removing the headlights.
 
#9 ·
I have never seen anyone ever fix dings using dry ice or nitrogen. Never. I've heard many people claim to have seen it, but it is never from a reliable source.

PDR is done via pushing the dent from the bottom side (working from the perimiter to the center in some kind of circular pattern) or pulling it from the top using some kind of hot glue blend using the same pattern. It is a very precise process of bringing it up too high and knocking it back down, a little at a time. Patience is the key, a proper repair takes lots of up and down action. Drilling is rarely done nowdays, for two reasons; it's seen as a sign of laziness, and with all the electronics, sound deadeners and air bags hidden in the new car bodies drilling can have major unintended consequences.

On your SL the first concern I would have about the fenders is if the fender has that thick undercoating that was commonly shot on the underside of the fender top in some years. That will make it hard to get a tool focused on the exact dent and not have it dissipate the force into a wrong area. Glue pulling could be done, if necessary, but the next concern is that glue pulling can pull off paint that is not factory. Also, make sure they are are dings about quarter size or less and not palm prints. PDR isn't any good on stuff much larger than quarter size.

Good luck
 
#10 · (Edited)
Jeff, Thanks. Good advice, well recieved.

Not sure what direction I'll head at this time. The dints are thumb-print size or less, slight dimples only - no hard hits. My paint is 100% original and looks wet (I do my own detailing and am a fanatic about it). It may be that I'll leave them (dents) as they are. Other option is to default to more conventional manner, use a high-end, well qualified body shop my concern there being paint match albeit mine is Black.

Also helpful to learn from you that the undersides of the fenders may be coated. Rowdie informed me that removal of the inner fender shrouds is easy, so I suppose my next step will be to pull one and inspect for undercoat.

Again, Thanks.
 
#14 ·
For anyone who has seen The PIG in person, you know I have some dings.

I had a local, reputable PDR guy look at The PIG and said it would be very hard to succeed given the thickness of the metal on the body panels.

Newer cars are made of old tin cans rather than recycled tanks of the SL era.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I tried something similar to the dry ice method on my wife's smart car. I used liquid CO2 spray duster that I just happened to have. When I looked for more, couldn't find it. Maybe because of GHGs? Don't see dry ice in our supermarkets. Would like to try that.

I more or less used technique in the video below. The area was in a structural part of car, so quite heavy metal. Dent was reduced considerably before I ran out of spray. It's worth a try. Doesn't cost much. I think it would work OK on flat thinner panels.

 
#20 ·
I tried something similar to the dry ice method on my wife's smart car. I used liquid CO2 spray duster that I just happened to have. When I looked for more, couldn't find it. Maybe because of GHGs? Don't see dry ice in our supermarkets. Would like to try that.
Dry ice is available at my local supermarket and I think I am going to give it a try on a small dent in my rear quarter panel. Think I might try wrapping the dry ice in a microfibre towel using the excess towel as a handle. Will post results one way or the other.
 
#19 · (Edited)
My 126 was smashed by golf ball sized hail a few years ago and all were fixed by PDR. They used different types of levers pushing from behind or under. They couldn't get access to parts of the roof though. I used lights and reflection to see if there were any signs of where the dents were and was really surprised I could not find one done by PDR. Maybe 200 big dings all over the car- even chrome work (they can't fix that). It cost $2700 incl bits vs about $9000 quote for repair/replacement and painting.
If you find someone whose credentials you can check its well worth a try.
 
#22 ·
I started in the auto body business fresh out of high school in 1977. I have never one time seen a ding actually removed with dry ice. I urge anyone to try it and report the results here. I think there may be merit in putting a car (especially dark colored) in direct, summertime sunlight and then chilling an individual ding with dry ice. I think doing this multiple times (I mean possibly 100 or more) might move the molecules in a manner that might restore the surface.
However, I think the dry ice success stories will be narrated by Sasquatch.
 
#23 ·
Being a PDR technician myself I can confidently tell you that in any circumstance less bondo or no bondo is always better than more. So if you want to take care of cosmetic damage in the most cost/time efficient manner you need to find two things: a good PDR tech and a good autobody shop. call the PDR tech first and see if he can remove it or make it better and then call the bodyshop. The PDR industry is full of misconception but the real difference is what evidence of previous work does that PDR tech have(pictures) and what kind of experiences has that tech chosen to expose themselves too. For example I have only been practicing PDR for 2 years now and I can compare my work to the likes of techs with 10 years or more experience. Reason being I got into PDR young(19) and did not have the financial pressure of most other older technicians that I trained with and as a result of that I spent more time learning to pursue perfection rather than customer satisfaction and therefore said yes to the big questionable dents that would scare off the others who choose not to push their limits. Think of it as finding an artist to paint pictures that decorate your house in the metaphorical sense where those paintings are the dents/damages and the size/complexity of those paintings is mostly defined by the artist's(technician) abilities. But the phrase " WOW! I really didn't think that dent was going to come out" or "I had no idea that could be done" is something I hear very often working this trade. Bottom line is step 1. find a good PDR tech Step 2. Call him first! Step 3. If the dent is not removed or the Tech deemed it destined for the bodyshop, ask the tech for a recommended bodyshop or go to your own trusted choice. Step 4. Thank me later I drink my coffee black.;)
 
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