The hose connecting the fuel tank to the fuel damper on my '74 fell apart and leaked out my entire tank of fuel.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to remove the hose. I tried using a 19mm crows foot and a couple 3/8" extensions but the hose is screwed in way too tight and the crows foot strips off.
Might it work if I cut the hose and use a deep 19mm socket?
Yep, been there, done that. best to use a bona fide "Line Wrench" style crow's foot when breaking those bad boys loose, bear in mind you may find yourself breaking the fuel tank strainer loose instead. place that in a vise and proceed with line removal and don't lite up anything of course.
I have removed 4. From 1972-1986 models. Nary a problem with a regular crows foot. Tanks strainer came out twice. IMO that is a good thing. Getting a 46mm socket on that strainer is almost impossible.
Yeah, I try to buy craftsman (or similar quality) when I can. This, as you can see, was a HF flare wrench. Do you think the line wrench one will be able to slip on? I want to make sure before I drop $25 on a snap-on 19mm line wrench crow foot vs. the standard crow foot.
maby sidecuters to crimp tube then work crimped tube back forth until it breaks off, then deepwhell socket to remove line from screen. scary shit forsur on an empty tank.
Given we are talking about the new style hose. Perhaps the rubber could be cut away and then an Easyout inserted into the fitting. Then a socket might get it out?
I did mine a few months ago. Used a Harbor Freight flare nut socket on extensions. Don't rule out an overnight soak with Kroil just because the part is living in gas. And if the 'proper' metric socket is a touch too small sometimes an SAE will fit just right. Final thought.. we tend to apply increasing/steady torque in such situations when sharp bumping works much better.. assuming you have the space.
Back home for the summer, and just spent another couple hours in vain trying to get the damn hose fitting off with no success.
It's in there incredibly tight, and I've thoroughly stripped the fitting (using a snap-on crows foot, may I add). I also tried cutting right below the 19mm part with a dremel (so I could get socket access), but it's so tight up there I wasn't able to cut all the way around.
At this point I'm just going to try to pull the whole strainer assembly, but the (45mm?) bolt is partially covered by rubber/metal insulation. Any clue how to best remove some of that insulation?
It's beautiful weather and I want to get the car back on the road. If there's anyone local who might be able to help, I'd be happy to throw a Benjamin your way.
You try Kroil? And the basin wrench (esp. now that you've rounded off the nut)? Given the sparks a Dremel cutoff bit can throw I'd be hesitant (i.e. scared $#@!less) to try that approach even if you think the gas tank is bone dry. There's a purpose-made 45mm socket for that strainer nut from what I've read here. Use plenty of Kroil a day or three beforehand.
It doesn't look like there's enough room for the socket walls. The insulation cutout barely exposes the 46mm socket.
Can I pull the fuel tank without removing the strainer, or does it hold the tank in?
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