1987 560sl U joint - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 10:27 AM
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1987 560sl U joint

I am having trouble finding a U joint for my 87 560sl. I have the new flex discs and carrier bearing but when I took out the shaft yesterday and found the u joint was not that smooth as I think it should be. I also found that the pinion flange was in bad shape, it seems that the previous owner did not care about the vibration that was coming from the car. When I bought the car it was not running so I had no idea until I got it on the road last week. I think I can get the flange from the locale pick and pull but the u joint is not showing up anywhere. Also how hard will it be to change since they staked it in from the factory.
Thanks
Angelo
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#2 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 32coop View Post
I am having trouble finding a U joint for my 87 560sl. I have the new flex discs and carrier bearing but when I took out the shaft yesterday and found the u joint was not that smooth as I think it should be. I also found that the pinion flange was in bad shape, it seems that the previous owner did not care about the vibration that was coming from the car. When I bought the car it was not running so I had no idea until I got it on the road last week. I think I can get the flange from the locale pick and pull but the u joint is not showing up anywhere. Also how hard will it be to change since they staked it in from the factory.
Thanks
Angelo
Fellow member Roncallo has replaced one.

But if you are replacing the flange and the u-joint, a driveshaft shop might be a good idea so you can get it balanced after.

The hanger bearing is a usual suspect for vibration, as well.

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#3 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 12:14 PM
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Fellow member Roncallo has replaced one.

But if you are replacing the flange and the u-joint, a driveshaft shop might be a good idea so you can get it balanced after.

The hanger bearing is a usual suspect for vibration, as well.
I just returned from talking to the lead mechanic at my MB dealer.
He says that MB does not sell the u joint....the assembly needs to be purchased.
He replaced a u joint by using a die grinder to gring off the "pinched" points, pressed the u- joint out, went to Carquest where they have a u-joint chart with all the pertinent info, bought the correct u joint, pressed it back in and then used his mig to put a couple of weld drops on the edge to replicate the "pinched" points on the edge.

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#4 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 04:35 PM
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I got my U joint from Parts America no longer in business. I staked mine back in but you need to be careful to hold center. Good luck finding one. I would be very cautious about welding. Some bearing materials change properties at around 300° F. Grease goes on fire and becomes worthless at ~ 400° F.

If your flanges are also bad perhaps you should just consider a rebuilt shaft for like $200.00 - $300.00 with new flex couplings. By the way genuine MB couplings are over $200 for two.

This is the only one I could find. A bit pricy
http://www.jcwhitney.com/omix-univer...erid=c3671u0j1

Last edited by roncallo; 02-22-2012 at 06:04 PM.
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#5 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012, 12:49 AM
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Yes I thought about taking a die grinder to it , or just leave it cause it is not that bad. But as much of a pain in the ass that it is to do this job I figured while I am there I would just change them. The flanges on the shaft are fine the one that is bad is the one mounted to the pinion.
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#6 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012, 03:18 AM
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I used these guys years ago for a BMW driveshaft and was very happy with the service and quality.

Driveline Service of Portland
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#7 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012, 04:50 AM
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Yes I thought about taking a die grinder to it , or just leave it cause it is not that bad. But as much of a pain in the ass that it is to do this job I figured while I am there I would just change them. The flanges on the shaft are fine the one that is bad is the one mounted to the pinion.
The pinion flange on the trans and diff is available separately from MB. They should also be readily available in junk yards as complete diffs are hard to sell and there are plenty of bad transmissions to pull from.
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#8 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012, 07:14 AM
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I would be very cautious about welding. Some bearing materials change properties at around 300° F. Grease goes on fire and becomes worthless at ~ 400° F.
Agreed. The "drop" should be small and on the lip of the driveshaft. Just to prevent the u-joint from floating.

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#9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012, 08:16 PM
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Went to the pick and pull today found a 75 450sl got uder the car pulled the drive shaft out to get the flange off only to find that the nut is different so now I have to get one of those special sockets. I tried some other Mercedes but the flange was not the same.
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#10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 03:33 AM
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I have the special socket available on the tool loan program for the 722.6 trans. Not sure its the same but honestly Ive been able to use a standard 12 point deep socket prior to getting the special socket. just need to hold it on square.
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