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380sl SEAT REMOVEL AND DYEING seats

12K views 37 replies 13 participants last post by  Foxvolto 
#1 ·
Hi Guys, I have a 84 380sl i bought a few months ago and the seats where recovered by the 2nd owner with vinyl covers..There are no tears in them but they have scratches and wear marks..I am not keeping this car so i didn't want to go crazy replacing the covers..I was planning on Dyeing or spray painting them the same color..Is there any suggestions on which dye or spray paint i should use ? At my local auto store they have vinyl spray paint which i was planning on using...

As for removing the 2 front seats is it as easy as taking of the bolts on the side in the rails?

Thanks
 
#3 ·
SEM and Mar-Hyde are probably the two most popular brands and usually available at parts stores. Aresol cans are fine. Clean the seats as well as you can stand, with glass cleaner, a citrus cleaner or soap & water. Be careful of solvent based cleaners, since they might damage the vinyl, depending on it's quality.
I don't think you need to pull the seats, unless you are drastically changing the color. Paint them with the top down and the doors open, preferably outside, or in the middle of the garage or shop. Stick newspapers around the sides and other overspray areas. Use a 8x11 piece of light cardboard to stick behind areas where you are really spraying. Since you are pretty much covering up bad spots, keep it light and move around. You don't want to make sure you get heavy and complete coverage over all areas. Cover the damaged areas, move to the edges with the idea of blending in the paint, not getting a full, wet coat. It is very rare that a professional interior repair specialist removes a seat to paint it.

Now, to get on my soapbox. There is no such thing as "redying" a seat, that I am aware of. Everything I have ever seen is really just paint, whatever it says on the can. I think it is one of those pretensions words used in the car business, like pre-owned and respray.
 
#5 ·
Jeff's recommendation on the SEM or Mar-Hyde was excellent and being vinyl you should get a good result. Congratulations on your new car and welcome to the site - there are some knowledgable members who will take the time and welcome the opportunity to help out newbies and juniors with their questions and help us optimize the pleasure we get from these cars. You have been pointed in the right direction. Good luck and let us know how it turned out.
 
#6 ·
As for removing the 2 front seats is it as easy as taking of the bolts on the side in the rails?

Thanks
I would take the seats out. Probably less work than masking for overspray.

World Upholstery sells a cleaner for cleaning vinyl after first cleaning with detergent. It's a good idea to use it so that the dye/paint will adhere. I have heard that the solvent may just be IPA, but not sure.

You can order everything you need from WU including the correct MB colour. May be your best bet. But the stuff they sell is actually made by SEM which is widely available, but in limited colours.

Dyes in Aerosols Cans for Vinyl, Leather, Plastic and Carpet

How Is Surface Prepped?
Dye must be applied over a clean dry surface. Tri-clean cleaner and silicone remover or similar is recommended after cleaning with mild detergent. Before application, rough up surface with 600 sandpaper or a scotch brite pad for best adhesion. All traces of silicone must be removed.
 
#7 ·
I would take the seats out. Probably less work than masking for overspray.

World Upholstery sells a cleaner for cleaning vinyl after first cleaning with detergent. It's a good idea to use it so that the dye/paint will adhere. I have heard that the solvent may just be IPA, but not sure.[/url]

+1 on this...cleaning will make a BIG difference in the final result and its longevity. I've been amazed on how long leather "dye" (which, as mentioned, is REALLY a coating) can last on a steering wheel, where you would expect it to wear quickly.
 
#8 ·
I removed my seats and separated the back from the bottom to spray them.

The most important thing you can do is CLEAN,CLEAN,CLEAN.

Commercial soap cleaner and then an IPA / Methanol mix should do the trick with no damage.

Sherwin Williams has a nice line of paint specifically for vinyl interior materials.
 
#9 ·
No, it isn't easier to take out the seat. I have spent 35 years in the auto body business and can tell you without question that it is much easier being a little careful, and not hosing seat paint all over the place will do all you want. I am currently working on the interior of a 1985 380SL I bought last summer. I bought it with the intent of selling it, while cleaning it up a bit and hoping to make a little money on it. It is 473H gold metallic exterior, with a tan interior. The leather seats and vinyl door panels have faded through the last 26 years (believe it or not) to the point where the upper surfaces of the soft cop cover, seats and door panels are some kind of grotesque gray/pink mix, and the lower door side panels and seat sides are more of a grimed up tan. Using the color guide provided to me by my paint jobber (which is available to all who will go an auto paint store and ask to look at one), I chose the 15173 Camel color. Starting at the back, I repainted all the interior. The soft top cover, aftermarket jump seat and side panels were all different colors before I started and painting them with the SEM paint has made them look much nicer. This car just isn't worth spending $2000 to recover the front seats, rear seat, soft top cover and rear side panels. Not to mention the console and door panels.
Going back to my previous post and the first part of this one, I want to emphasize that auto interior refurbishment professionals don't remove seats to repaint (redye) them, because it is extremely rare that there is any need to, or gain from, doing so. If you want to heft the seat in and out, and wrassle with the rear lifting cam spring, I think you are nuts, but knock yourself out. :)
 
#12 ·
Jeff, with all due respect, I beg to differ, on this.

I can have seat out and in in 15 minutes X 2 = 30 minutes
Versus masking an interior AND being unable to color the complete seat.
 
#16 ·
Leather starts off in a natural "tan" colour.

There are techniques to dying new leather that differ to re-dying previously dyed leather.

I know that when I bought my dye (for a re-dye), a chemical additive was added for dying leather.
It promotes adhesion on a molecular level.

Was your Dad using shoe polish?
 
#17 ·
The problem with leather dyeing was not so much the colouring as the sealing to stop colour rubbing onto clothing.I did a bit of leather colouring when my daughter was into horses.I don't think this is an issue with the paints they use today, but nobody wants a black bum on their trousers!
 
#18 · (Edited)
Wow these seats Look great Now...I did end up taking the seats out to dye them and they look GREAT...Cleaned them with a all purpose cleaner and washed with clean water...After they dried i sanded with 600 grit sand paper taped off all metal ...After sanding i washed again with clean water and dried...I used a aerosol dye from Dyes in Aerosols Cans for Vinyl, Leather, Plastic and Carpet
The seats look New...Just a FYI i bought 2 cans at $18 each and thought it would do 2 chairs, BUT i had to order 2 more cans to finish and touch ups..The dye works great just plan on 2 cans each seat....Thanks for all the help guys...
 
#20 ·
Ok i will post a few picks when they are done..Waiting on the 3 cans i ordered to finish the 2nd seat and a trim piece...Sorry i didn't think of before and after ...I will say that Dye is REALLY GOOD i used (1980 - 1989) palomino ...I should have them on Tuesday and will post a few pic's...
 
#29 ·
When I did mine, I had a problem with the dye clogging the perforations ... didn't look right to me. I tried poking the perforations with a needle to clear them, but that's a thousand-year job. Then I hit upon the idea of using a blow gun and that did a pretty good job.
 
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