|05-24-2011, 01:39 PM||#11 (permalink)|
BenzWorld Junior Member
Date registered: Jan 2011
Vehicle: 1983 Mercedes Benz 380SL
|05-24-2011, 02:15 PM||#13 (permalink)|
Date registered: Sep 2008
Vehicle: 85 380sl, 06 Jetta TDI, Wagon
Location: Delta, BC
|05-24-2011, 07:32 PM||#14 (permalink)|
Lifetime Premium Member
The rubber in the subframe is available, and it's recommended that you do the motor mounts as part of the same job.
The good news is that it's not that expensive (for Mercedes definitions thereof).
The bad news is that the front springs have to be dealt with to get to the control arm bushings.
Those are some rather large springs, storing what is technically referred to as One Hell Of A Lot Of Kinetic Energy. Without the proper tools they are fully capable of taking out the neighbor's dog. After going through your body. And house.
I exaggerate for effect only slightly; they're dangerous.
It has been done before on a do-it-yourself basis, though, and there are writeups in the forum. Read them carefully and decide whether or not you want to try it, or have it done.
Remember: It's not just a car. It's an Adventure.
|05-29-2011, 11:52 PM||#15 (permalink)|
Date registered: Sep 2002
Vehicle: 1975 450SLC, Previous: 1989 190E 2.6, 1997 E420, 1985 380SL
Location: Martinez, CA
|05-30-2011, 08:20 AM||#16 (permalink)|
Lifetime Premium Member
1) Ignition timing
- I checked this the other day because I though maybe my high idle was caused by the ignition timing being too advanced. I checked with a strobe that the timing at 3000 RPM is about 24 degrees. Sound good? If not, what's a good procedure?
On the 83 and later, at operating temperature, remove the vacume line off the distributor and stick a golf tee in the line to stop the vacume leak, and set the timing to Top Dead Center. Idle should be approx. 700 rpm. The centrifugal advance without vacume should be 11 to 15 dgrees advanced at 1500 rpm, and 22 to 26 degrees at 3000 rpm. With the vacume reconnected, the timing sould be 15 to 17 degrees BTD at idle.
If the idle is too high with the high idle hell, adjust the timing when it's cold, and the idle is still somewhat normal, it doesn't know the difference...
Have you pulled the Idle control box out yet and opened it to see if the circuit board is fried. I had the same problem when I first bought the car, and besides a few vacume leaks, my ICU was toast, you can find them used for a Franklin or more. I bought two,, now I have a spare. They're always cheaper when you don't need one.
Try that and get back. I'll be on and off line all day...
ps. If my other computer didn't get the virus, I could include pics, I'm working on that also....
2) Squeaky front end.
- only over speed bumps. Tie rods were replaced last year so it's not that. Also, at speed (80 MPH) the car handles like complete sh!t. Feels like the front end is swaying a bit. Hopefully it's bushings and not ball joints. Any recommendations on how to test? I'm not good with suspension.
3) HIGH FREAKING IDLE
- OK. Is there an idle adjustment on these cars? I have replaced the idle control box thinking it would fix the high idle, but it is still there. The high idle is only when the car is hot. It hovers at around 1100RPM. I've followed the manual to a 'T' and it all checks out. Wondering if there is some adjustment somewhere. Possibly the foot pedal adjustment or screw? Or maybe the oil temp sensor next to the oil filter? Don't know. I am lost on this one.
- Smells like an old V8 but it seems to run rich. Pulled a plug and it's grey so I guess not. Just worth a mention.
For a 57000 mile Merc, you would expect it to be perfect. I'm going back on my thoughts about German engineering at this point.
If I knew I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself and saved more money
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