1983 380SL Tune Up questions - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
#11 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 01:39 PM
BenzWorld Junior Member
 
zoltar's Avatar
 
Date registered: Jan 2011
Vehicle: 1983 Mercedes Benz 380SL
Location: Chicago
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by B,Bear View Post
No kit that I know of, but the locks, engine, everything works off vacuum.
I recently went through my system and replaced lines, check valves, and every connector that I could find as I got tired of trying to replace bit by bit. It did wonders for my car, and I'm kicking myself for not doing it earlier. While doing it I found some cracked connectors that looked good from the top, and some hoses that fell apart in my hands. Did the whole thing in an afternoon with drink breaks.
Now the RPM's have dropped, the car runs cooler, and has more power. I also replaced my OVP and that took care of the last of my engine issues, including advance issue under acceleration and the hesitation when pulling away from a stop.

Brent
I will say this thing does run hot with almost a 4-cylinder power feel to it. I'm thinking I may do this. I have a diagram for the vacuum system....wow.
zoltar is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
#12 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 01:40 PM
BenzWorld Junior Member
 
zoltar's Avatar
 
Date registered: Jan 2011
Vehicle: 1983 Mercedes Benz 380SL
Location: Chicago
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
What's the OVP? Over Protection Relay? That was replaced and I checked it and it's fine.
zoltar is offline  
#13 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 02:15 PM
BenzWorld Member
 
B,Bear's Avatar
 
Date registered: Sep 2008
Vehicle: 85 380sl, 06 Jetta TDI, Wagon
Location: Delta, BC
Posts: 233
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoltar View Post
What's the OVP? Over Protection Relay? That was replaced and I checked it and it's fine.
Yes, mine was original and rattled when I jiggled it, so something was loose inside.
B,Bear is offline  
#14 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 07:32 PM
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Date registered: Sep 2008
Vehicle: 1975 450SL
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 2,392
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
The rubber in the subframe is available, and it's recommended that you do the motor mounts as part of the same job.

The good news is that it's not that expensive (for Mercedes definitions thereof).

The bad news is that the front springs have to be dealt with to get to the control arm bushings.

Those are some rather large springs, storing what is technically referred to as One Hell Of A Lot Of Kinetic Energy. Without the proper tools they are fully capable of taking out the neighbor's dog. After going through your body. And house.

I exaggerate for effect only slightly; they're dangerous.

It has been done before on a do-it-yourself basis, though, and there are writeups in the forum. Read them carefully and decide whether or not you want to try it, or have it done.

Best wishes,
Scott

Remember: It's not just a car. It's an Adventure.
RadioTek is offline  
#15 (permalink) Old 05-29-2011, 11:52 PM
BenzWorld Veteran
 
Date registered: Sep 2002
Vehicle: Previous: 1989 190E 2.6, 1997 E420, 1985 380SL, 1975 450SLC
Location: Martinez, CA
Posts: 744
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoltar View Post
2) Squeaky front end.
- only over speed bumps. Tie rods were replaced last year so it's not that. Also, at speed (80 MPH) the car handles like complete sh!t. Feels like the front end is swaying a bit. Hopefully it's bushings and not ball joints. Any recommendations on how to test? I'm not good with suspension.
My 85 380SL did this very thing, and only when cold. I suspected the front sway bar bushings so I shot some white lithium grease into them and within a week (time for the grease to work in, I figured) the speed bump squeak was completely gone.
nathanso is offline  
#16 (permalink) Old 05-30-2011, 08:20 AM
Lifetime Premium Member
 
rockcrusher's Avatar
 
Date registered: Nov 2009
Vehicle: 1984 380SL, 1973 450SLC
Location: northeast Michigan
Posts: 1,720
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
[
1) Ignition timing
- I checked this the other day because I though maybe my high idle was caused by the ignition timing being too advanced. I checked with a strobe that the timing at 3000 RPM is about 24 degrees. Sound good? If not, what's a good procedure?

On the 83 and later, at operating temperature, remove the vacume line off the distributor and stick a golf tee in the line to stop the vacume leak, and set the timing to Top Dead Center. Idle should be approx. 700 rpm. The centrifugal advance without vacume should be 11 to 15 dgrees advanced at 1500 rpm, and 22 to 26 degrees at 3000 rpm. With the vacume reconnected, the timing sould be 15 to 17 degrees BTD at idle.

If the idle is too high with the high idle hell, adjust the timing when it's cold, and the idle is still somewhat normal, it doesn't know the difference...

Have you pulled the Idle control box out yet and opened it to see if the circuit board is fried. I had the same problem when I first bought the car, and besides a few vacume leaks, my ICU was toast, you can find them used for a Franklin or more. I bought two,, now I have a spare. They're always cheaper when you don't need one.

Try that and get back. I'll be on and off line all day...


Tom

ps. If my other computer didn't get the virus, I could include pics, I'm working on that also....










2) Squeaky front end.
- only over speed bumps. Tie rods were replaced last year so it's not that. Also, at speed (80 MPH) the car handles like complete sh!t. Feels like the front end is swaying a bit. Hopefully it's bushings and not ball joints. Any recommendations on how to test? I'm not good with suspension.

3) HIGH FREAKING IDLE
- OK. Is there an idle adjustment on these cars? I have replaced the idle control box thinking it would fix the high idle, but it is still there. The high idle is only when the car is hot. It hovers at around 1100RPM. I've followed the manual to a 'T' and it all checks out. Wondering if there is some adjustment somewhere. Possibly the foot pedal adjustment or screw? Or maybe the oil temp sensor next to the oil filter? Don't know. I am lost on this one.

4) Rich
- Smells like an old V8 but it seems to run rich. Pulled a plug and it's grey so I guess not. Just worth a mention.

For a 57000 mile Merc, you would expect it to be perfect. I'm going back on my thoughts about German engineering at this point.

SZ[/QUOTE]

If I knew I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself and saved more money
rockcrusher is offline  
Reply

  Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Roadster Forums > R/C107 SL/SLC Class


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Topic Author Forum Replies Last Post
Inherited 1983 380SL zoltar General Mercedes-Benz 4 01-09-2011 12:13 AM
New member: 1983 380SL jt380sl R/C107 SL/SLC Class 13 10-30-2009 03:09 PM
For Sale: 1983 380SL James_Van_Thach For Sale/Wanted/Trade/Giveaway 0 03-22-2007 08:18 AM
FS: 1983 380SL Rpadster spasky For Sale/Wanted/Trade/Giveaway 4 07-21-2006 05:39 PM
how is a 1983 380sl? Guest (MBNZ) R/C107 SL/SLC Class 3 03-22-2002 01:42 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome