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1982 380 sl that sat for 2 years

3K views 20 replies 12 participants last post by  garcuri@aol.com 
#1 ·
Hello all, I have a 1982 380 sl that sat for 2 years without driving. When I started it up it ran rough. I have replaced the following parts . The fuel distributor, injectors, warm up regulator and fuel pressure and spark plugs. I can start the car but it will not idol and after a few minutes it stalls and cannot start for 10 minutes.It is blowing white smoke out of the exhuast.
any idea.
Thanks
Gerry
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the forum.
A little white smoke could be condensation in the exhaust. If it continues after warm up or is a large amount it indicates coolant in the combustion. Ceheck your oil cap for foaming in the oil. Also check all of the plugs after it stalls to smell if it is fuel or coolant.
My best guesses. Good luck.
 
#3 ·
Does flooring the gas like you are trying to start a flooded car help when trying to start it? Mine was doing similar when I first got it. Perhaps try replacing the fuel filter and the fuel accumulator.
 
#4 ·
I would suggest changing the fuel filter and draining the old fuel out. After draining, remove the main outlet of the fuel tank. There is a screen there. I have seen a few get plugged up from rust. Also change the oil, as it probably has moisture in it. I would only be worried about the white smoke if it continues after the car has warmed up.
 
#5 ·
Empty the tank of old fuel and fill it up with high test. Techron can help. When you say it won't idle what does that mean? Wont idle high enough?, Idles too high? Definitley sounds like fuel. clamp the fuel line above the fuel pump. remove the hose from the fuel pump. There is a little filter in there that can get clogged. If so tank issues, if not fuel pump or FP relay needs checking.
 
#9 ·
Does it run if you pour fuel directly in the intake manifold? If it runs than the problem is fuel delivery. If not it is elsewhere. Fuel coming out of the exhaust means it's not burning. Check each spark plug wire for spark.
 
#14 · (Edited)
HI,
I ASSUME THIS IS A CARBURETED ENGINE ? THUS IT APPEARS YOU ARE HAVING AN OVER FUELING PROBLEM. ( FUEL DRIPPING OUT OF THE TAIL PIPE) ALLTHOUGH/ WATER COOLANT CONDENSATION WILL WITHOUT DOUBT CAUSE WHITE SMOKE SO WILL EXCESSIVE FUEL COLLECTED IN THE MUFFLER, CHECK THE FLOATS IN THE CARB MAYBE STUCK OPEN OR NEEDLE VALVE SEAT HELD OFF IT'S SEAT DUE TO SLUDGE ACCUMULATED WHILE YOUR VEHICLE SAT FOER SEVERAL YEARS CAUSING THE FUEL TO EVAPORATE AND LEAVING BEHIND THE ADDITATIVES WHICH SOME TIMES FORM A SLIMY SLUDGE DEPENDING ON CLIMATE CONDITIONS. IF THE ENGINE RUNS REASONABLY WELL AT HIGH THROTTLE (HALF OR MORE) BUT NOT AT IDLE CHECK THE CARB AND THE REST OF THE FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM .

LCAN
 
#15 ·
HI,
I ASSUME THIS IS A CARBURETED ENGINE ? THUS IT APPEARS YOU ARE HAVING AN OVER FUELING PROBLEM. ( FUEL DRIPPING OUT OF THE TAIL PIPE) ALLTHOUGH/ WATER COOLANT CONDENSATION WILL WITHOUT DOUBT CAUSE WHITE SMOKE SO WILL EXCESSIVE FUEL COLLECTED IN THE MUFFLER, CHECK THE FLOATS IN THE CARB MAYBE STUCK OPEN OR NEEDLE VALVE SEAT HELD OFF IT'S SEAT DUE TO SLUDGE ACCUMULATED WHILE YOUR VEHICLE SAT FOER SEVERAL YEARS CAUSING THE FUEL TO EVAPORATE AND LEAVING BEHIND THE ADDITATIVES WHICH SOME TIMES FORM A SLIMY SLUDGE DEPENDING ON CLIMATE CONDITIONS. IF THE ENGINE RUNS REASONABLY WELL AT HIGH THROTTLE (HALF OR MORE) BUT NOT AT IDLE CHECK THE CARB AND THE REST OF THE FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM .

ARE YOU SURE THAT WHAT YOU SEE DRIPPING OUT OF THE TAIL PIPE IS FUEL? IF YOU ARE SURE THAN FOLLOW SUGGESTION ABOVE. IF NOT SURE THEN RUN THE ENGINE FOR A WHILE AT 1/4 THROTTLE AND SEE IF THE ENGINE STARTS TO OVERHEAT OR IF THE FLUID DRIPPING OUT OF THE TAIL PIPE DRIES UP. LEAVE THE RAD CAP OFF DURING THIS TEST BE CAREFULL IF THE ENGINE DO OVER HEAT THERE COULD BE VIOLENT GUSHING OF COOLANT OUT OF THE FILLER NECK. HOWEVER I ASSUME YOU ARE SMART ENOUGH TO HAULT THE TEST AS SOON AS YOU DISCOVER THAT EXCESS WATER IS STARTING TO COME OUT OF THE FILLER NECK. THIS COULD BE SIGN OF BLOWN HEAD GASKET , WARPED OR CRACKED HEAD. THERE ARE SOME OTHER TEST TO DETERMINE THIS WHICH DON'T REQUIRE ANY SPECIAL TOOLS OR ADDED EXPENSE, HOWEVER FOR NOW DO THE CHECKS I SUGGESTED THUS FAR. IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE CONTACT ME.
 
#19 ·
One thing I've found on a few different CIS cars I've brought back from sitting is that old fuel deposits can gum up the air flow sensor pivot pin making it move stiffly or stick partially open.
It's easy to check but a bear to fix.
To check it, bleed off any residual pressure in the system (crack open the fuel line fitting at the WUR) and push down on the sensor plate. It should move very easily with no resistance and return to the top smoothly and quickly.
To repair it you pull the air control unit, split it in half, remove the pivot pin and clean all the moving parts. Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly and hope that fixes it.
 
#20 ·
IN THIS CASE YOU MAY WANT TO CHECK THE COLD START SYSTEM. PERHAPS THE COLD START INJECTOR IS ON ALL THE TIME. THIS COULD BE DUE TO SEVERAL ITEMS, RELAY, TEMP SENSOR OR EVEN SHORTED WIRING ( FAMOUS BENZ PROBLEM WITH THE WIRE HARNESS UNDER THE HOOD) TRY DISCONCTING THE PLUG AT THE COLD START INJECTOR.
 
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