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How do I remove plastic coat before removing front fenders?

2K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  rowdie 
#1 ·
I need to remove the front fenders to be able to fix some rust :crybaby2:, but how do I remove the plastic coat on the outside before removing them?

Seems like there is a very thick layer of that coating which probably will cause some damage if I dont get it of before loosing the fender.
Thinking of hot air and then cut trough it wich a carpet knife...
Anyone done this before...
 
#2 ·
Heat gun plus spatula knife + hours of time = free fender.

The fender that are puttied on are a major pain to get off. Took me and and someone 3 hours to remove a fender with the damned putty. Just use lots of heat and keep scraping. I was thinking it would be neat to use a piece of wire to cut the heated putty, but that might not be possible.

Good luck and I'm up for fender removal in a few weeks to repair a dent.
 
#6 ·
Looks like a great book... I shall se if I can order it from my local bookshop using the ISBN-Nummer from that page...

That tool look exactly like something been needing many times before, didn't know they existed. I will phone my local Bosch resellers tomorrow and see if I can hold of one before the weekend , otherwise I will order one...
I found some simular tool locally which can work, I will also check those out...
I will keep u updated if the tool works...

Thanks...
 
#7 ·
OMG... It took more then 4 hours to get that right fender off...
I bought a simular tool as the one Judy recommended, unfortunally it was to to narrow for using it as I wanted. But it was perfect to remove all that old coating when the fender was off, it just sliced that coating off, saved me a lot of time... I've put some pictures on my blog, not much to see really, maby for new buyers who should know where to look for rust on their cars. Will fix the right side tomorrow...
 
#9 · (Edited)
Almost all rust on right side (fender) is fixed, never understood how much time and work it takes to fix rust especially when all pieces are manually manufactured. There are some more pictures on my blog if anyone are intersted.

I dont want to put any pictures up here on the forum regarding the rust repairs since there is already lots of them, therefor I keep them on my blog(if anyone wonders).

I'm not suprised founding rust in these places since the drainage is really poor, I would recommend other SL owners, at least here in Sweden to drill new drainage holes in the frames/panels I have repaired.

Don't miss the picture of the rebuilded autenthic Excalibur on my blog, It looks like an old MB, doesn't it...

http://mb280sl.blogspot.com/
 
#10 ·
I was thinking that if you want to put some seam sealer on the fender when it is repaired I would use adhesive backed foam tape that you use on pickup truck camper shells. Don't know if you have pickup in Sweden but if you do it might be a suitable replacement.

Good luck Pex, I'm next so 4 hours is the benchmark time, beat it and post your times!
 
#11 ·
I was thinking of using, how shall I translate/explain it...
It's a tape roll made of the same material as the car manufactures put between 2 metall parts when they build the cars, almost like bubbelgum... If u know what I meen...

To a Swedish page but there is a picture... You can always give me the correct translation..
Avancerad ytbehandling för golv, tak och fordon - Hagmans Kemi
 
#12 ·
When restoring my car I used a cable saw..which is basically a wire about the size of picture hanging wire..that has abrasive cutting teeth on it and also has a loop on each end of the wire for your finger. It did not do any damage to the metal and left most of the rubber coating in place so that when replacing them I only had to use a minimum of seam sealer to reseal them. I purchased it at Home Depot but I am sure you could find one at most any local hardware store
 
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