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Trunk mount stereo amp

3K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  reno4u2 
#1 ·
I am going to add an amplifier to my stereo system (aftermarket) and would like to mount it in the trunk. Would like to see some pics from those who have done so. The trunk bulkhead would be ideal but what is behind it (like gas tank)? Also the area on the drivers side next to the antenna cover looks promising. I am wondering if I could tap off the antenna’s power lead to connect to the amp’s remote on/off switch.

As always….thanks!
 
#2 ·
Speaking from experience, I can assure you that a screw in the wrong place on the bulkhead is a bad idea. :eek:

The fuel tank and the expansion tank are there, but if you were to remove the bulkhead first you might be able to determine a good safe location.
 
#3 ·
˙ʇooq əɥʇ uɪ sɪ ʇʇɐq ɟɪ ʞsɐʇ ʎsɐə uɐ puɐ lɐɪɔɪɟəuəq əq plnoʍ əɹɪʍ əʌɪʇɐƃəu əʇɐɹɐdəs ʻuoɪʇɔəuuoɔ punoɹƃ ʇuəɪɔɪɟns s,əɹəɥʇ ɟɪ əɹnɥs ʇou

˙spɐəɥ ʍəɹɔs ɹəʌo ɹəɟɟnq ɹəqqnɹ ʇnd p,ɪ
˙llɐ ʇɐ ʞuɐʇ əɥʇ ƃuɪɹəƃuɐpuə ʇnoɥʇɪʍ llɐʍəɹɪɟ ʇooq əɥʇ oʇ dɯɐ ɥɔɐʇʇɐ oʇ əlqɐ əq ʎɐɯ noʎ puɐ ʇsəllɐɯs əɥʇ əq plnoʍ uoɪsnɹʇoɹd pɐəɥ ʍəɹɔs əɥʇ ʻsʍəɹɔs ʞunsɹəʇunoɔ əsn noʎ ɟɪ
˙səoƃ ʇɪ ɹɐɟ sɐ s,ʇɐɥʇ ʇnq ɹəʍod əʇoɯəɹ dɯɐ ɹoɟ pəddɐʇ əq uɐɔ ɹəʍod ɐuəʇuɐ
 
#4 ·
I had mine in the trunk, but it overheated on hot days. I moved it to under the faux parcel shelf.
 

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#11 ·
In progress

Apparently my picture format will not allow uploading at this time (or atleast that what the site is saying). Too bad because I'm doing this now.

Regardless, I first created two cardboard templates corresponding to the left and right sides between the rear lights and the gas tank bulk head. I then bolted an L shaped linear piece of metal along the floor of each side, about 14" long with the flush face exactly 3/4" deep to a line running exactly vertical to the lateral lid lip on both sides, sealing the bolts on the underside and in the trunk to inhibit rust. I then built wooden panels in the shape of the templates out of high quality pressboard (the real hard, stuff) which attaches by large plastic tri-arm wingnuts to the L-beams. OSH has the beams they are 3x3 corregated looking steel. The tri-handle nuts measure about 2'' across and are also in the "odd furniture connectors" section. These allow ease of removal. Because the panels are mounted on the sides you retain trunk space. Amps can now be mounted upright for airflow, and can be recessed and mounted through the panels, hiding all wires. The wingnuts press the panels against the L-beams holding very well (two along the bottom...). To augment the support, I had my body guy weld top supports along the underside of the lip exactly 3/4" deep to the inner edge of the lid lip so that the panels remain flush. The right panel merely hides the jack. The left panel holds a 4 way alpine PDX amp and an audiocontrol sound processor. Both fit behind the panel with their faces showing through. Carpet matching the interior then was used to cover the panels. The rear light covers curve around the panels (there is a rectangular groove cut into each panel toaccomodate these) and fitment is perfect. It looks very high end, near stock, and I did it with home tools and stuff from OSH. It fit the requirements of vertical mounting for cooling, maintaining trunk space, elimination of bulging equipment which can be damaged by trunk contents, and hides all wires. I have a 72 so it actually makes the trunk look better. It also allows ease of removal, symmetry, and does not inhibit the lights and does not violate the gas bulk head.
This is obvious on photos. I have snapfire so if anyone knows how to convert I'll post some pics..
 
#12 ·
Apparently my picture format will not allow uploading at this time (or atleast that what the site is saying). Too bad because I'm doing this now.

Regardless, I first created two cardboard templates corresponding to the left and right sides between the rear lights and the gas tank bulk head. I then bolted an L shaped linear piece of metal along the floor of each side, about 14" long with the flush face exactly 3/4" deep to a line running exactly vertical to the lateral lid lip on both sides, sealing the bolts on the underside and in the trunk to inhibit rust. I then built wooden panels in the shape of the templates out of high quality pressboard (the real hard, stuff) which attaches by large plastic tri-arm wingnuts to the L-beams. OSH has the beams they are 3x3 corregated looking steel. The tri-handle nuts measure about 2'' across and are also in the "odd furniture connectors" section. These allow ease of removal. Because the panels are mounted on the sides you retain trunk space. Amps can now be mounted upright for airflow, and can be recessed and mounted through the panels, hiding all wires. The wingnuts press the panels against the L-beams holding very well (two along the bottom...). To augment the support, I had my body guy weld top supports along the underside of the lip exactly 3/4" deep to the inner edge of the lid lip so that the panels remain flush. The right panel merely hides the jack. The left panel holds a 4 way alpine PDX amp and an audiocontrol sound processor. Both fit behind the panel with their faces showing through. Carpet matching the interior then was used to cover the panels. The rear light covers curve around the panels (there is a rectangular groove cut into each panel toaccomodate these) and fitment is perfect. It looks very high end, near stock, and I did it with home tools and stuff from OSH. It fit the requirements of vertical mounting for cooling, maintaining trunk space, elimination of bulging equipment which can be damaged by trunk contents, and hides all wires. I have a 72 so it actually makes the trunk look better. It also allows ease of removal, symmetry, and does not inhibit the lights and does not violate the gas bulk head.
This is obvious on photos. I have snapfire so if anyone knows how to convert I'll post some pics..
That just made my brain hurt.


Need pics.

Please.
 
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