Your safest bet is to find a set of original alloy bundts, but you could also find Ronals, BBS, wires, or Pentas. There may be others but these are the predominant choices. While the bundts, etc from other M-B's of the era have the same bolt pattern, wheel offset is likely to be different. M-B wheels have this information embossed on the interior side of the wheel. I don't know the spec for your 450, but no doubt someone here does.

Lug bolts can also be different for other wheels. Variables are length and ball size (spherical portion that contacts the wheel).

FWIW, I think the painted wheel covers give your '73 a rather elegant look, especially with the black and red combination. Sets it apart.

 

Sorry I don't know wheels or tires. I do get a little jealous when I see those Lorinser and AMG rims though.

There are a few things to consider when buying wheels for a car:

The lug bolt spacing and number. For your 107, there's 5 lug bolts and the spacing is 112 mm apart. This is written as 5x112.

Next is the offset, which is how far from exact center of the wheel is the hub mounting surface. The stock wheel on your car had an offset of 23 mm. This is usually written as ET 23.

Playing into what the offset has to be for a particular wheel is the width of the wheel. The width also affects what size tire you fit to the wheel. The stock wheel on your car was 6.5" wide and fit a 205 tire - that means the tire tread was 205 mm wide.

Then there is the total diameter of the wheel/tire assembly as mounted on the car. Your transmission and differential are calibrated for a particular diameter. It counts x rotations of the tire as 1 mile. If you go too far away from the stock size, either smaller or larger, it affects both the displayed speed, as well as the miles counted on the odometer.

If you change the width of the wheel, that has to be reflected in the offset. You've only got so much space inside the wheel well before the rim of the wheel starts to hit the tie rods or other things in there. There's usually some experimentation involved.

Last is the profile of the tire, which is the relationship between tread width and sidewall height. When you buy a tire, it has a size like 235/60-15. That means the tread is 235 mm wide. The side of the tire is 60% of the tread width in height, so it's about 140 mm tall. And the opening where the wheel mounts is 15".

I made myself a little cheat sheet in Excel that will let me know what a particular wheel size/tire size will do on a car. Don't change the first line, that's the reference. Plug things into Option 1 and Option 2 to see how it will work on your car. You're welcome to it, if you'd like.

View attachment MBWheels.xls.zip

 

There are a few things to consider when buying wheels for a car:

The lug bolt spacing and number. For your 107, there's 5 lug bolts and the spacing is 112 mm apart. This is written as 5x112.

Next is the offset, which is how far from exact center of the wheel is the hub mounting surface. The stock wheel on your car had an offset of 23 mm. This is usually written as ET 23.

Playing into what the offset has to be for a particular wheel is the width of the wheel. The width also affects what size tire you fit to the wheel. The stock wheel on your car was 6.5" wide and fit a 205 tire - that means the tire tread was 205 mm wide.

And last is the total diameter of the wheel/tire assembly as mounted on the car. Your transmission and differential are calibrated for a particular diameter. It counts x rotations of the tire as 1 mile. If you go too far away from the stock size, either smaller or larger, it affects both the displayed speed, as well as the miles counted on the odometer.

If you change the width of the wheel, that has to be reflected in the offset. You've only got so much space inside the wheel well before the rim of the wheel starts to hit the tie rods or other things in there. There's usually some experimentation involved.

Last is the profile of the tire, which is the relationship between tread width and sidewall height. When you buy a tire, it has a size like 235/60-15. That means the tread is 235 mm wide. The side of the tire is 60% of the tread width in height, so it's about 140 mm tall. And the opening where the wheel mounts is 15".

I made myself a little cheat sheet in Excel that will let me know what a particular wheel size/tire size will do on a car. Don't change the first line, that's the reference. Plug things into Option 1 and Option 2 to see how it will work on your car. You're welcome to it, if you'd like.

View attachment 326995

ScottSoCal,
Invaluable information and spoken clearly and completely understandable. Thanks ScottSoCal :thumbsup:

 

Thanks Scott!

Now I have to ask... why in the heck would they make a standard that has the following quirks:
- Inner ring in English, Others in Metric
- They don't just state the obviously important measurements: Rim diameter, Rim width, and Outer diameter. WTF?

There's got to be some good story for this similar to that which describes the width of the space shuttle rockets as approximately the same as two horses asses. Horses --> Chariots --> wheel ruts --> cars --> train tracks --> trucks and trains that carry rockets --> tunnel sizes, etc.

 

Just some comments:

Any 6 or 6.5" 14" Bundt will fit, the SL's came with 6.5's. Very early Bundts (starting with 108...part numbers) have metal, old-fashioned non-pop-in valve stems that may freak out some tire installers. I happen to think clean, fresh Bundts look pretty good, and aren't that bad to clean if the paint is new or they are polished (but I woudn't chrome them).

15" bundts exist and will fit but are made from out of unobtaninum and are very expensive even used, unless you are INCREDIBLY lucky.

The 560SL "New look" wheels are 7" wide, 15" diameter, and I like them, they will almost certainly fit (but Bundts won't fit a 560SL because of brake caliper clearance). They were also on W126's from 86-89 (?), after which, for some reason, maybe ride or gas mileage, they went back to 6.5" width.

Almost all MB wheels of this area were forged. 99% of inexpensive aftermarket aluminum wheels are spun cast, heavier, and some MBCA members swear prone to shattering in an accident (but almost all modern OEM wheels are spun-cast, too).

I have a set of 14" wire wheels also and they are VERY heavy (definitely changes the feel of the car), a major chore to clean, and basically not financially feasible to rechrome if they are pitted or peeling.

On the subject of peeling, avoid used chrome wheels that show ANY sign of abuse because peeling chrome wheels will leak and can be fairly expensive to have stripped and rechromed. Some people SWEAR that stripping chrome wheels will permanently harm the remaining metal, I don't know.

IMO, 14" wheels/tires look almost "quaint" nowdays. It isn't that easy to find good, cheap, speed-rated tires in this size and load-bearing capacity. A friend of mine says the car looks like it rides on rubber "doughnuts" (naturally, his BMW has 18" wheels).

Also another IMO, anything over 16" on this car starts to look a bit ricey/blingy, and certainly not "period".

 

These will fit, but on a wide body

More of this car here --> HerrTschik on flickr

 

These will fit, but on a wide body

On the back, sure, but if you tried putting them on the front you'd find that all your turns are bad turns.

 

Just check the link and select more pics from the panel on the right.

I do not think it deserves to go to the hall of shame as the car was modified quite well inspite the Ferarri Testarossa look and look

 

Quality workmanship IMO keeps it out. And keep in mind that it looked pretty good in the 80's.

Given the state of the exhaust system, this car is no garage queen!

 

I was commenting on the exhaust system. Besides, there is already one in the Hall of Shame. And yes you have to remember the era when these were done.:thumbsup:

 

 

.


I wasn't here that day.

 

^^^
Those wire wheels look so nice but the way my car sheds brake material, I'd have to have a personal Fuller Brush rep on staff just to keep me stocked in wheel cleaning utensils!




"Volunteering" down at the county lockup again, hmm?

 

This ones are Zenith 14" x 7.5" ET 30 thinking of selling. are in Las Vegas

 

I could not get that ZIP file to open up.

I have 15" x 7.5" rims with a 23 offset, currently running 215/65R 15 tires. I'd like to figure out how wide a tire would be realistic for these rims.

I may try downloading the zip file from another computer. I'd love to have that calculator!!

 

There's a wheel size calculator in the encyclopaedia germanica, 107 forum sticky (go to the top of this page and click on the "R/C107 SL/SLC class")

 

I'm not sure if this web-page calculator is already in the EGv107, but I thought it might be worth adding: Wheel / tire size calculator / comparer - RIMSnTIRES.com It's nice the way it converts tire sizes to measurements that make sense to us all. Unfortunately, there's not much that I believe any calculator can do as far as the inner clearance required for the calipers. I assume that's something that would need to be measured for each type of rim / wheel.

The link may not be immensely useful, but it seems to have some value, at least to a Noob.

EDIT:
Ooops! The link is in there TWICE already. Sorry.

 

According to this gentleman I engaged in delightful conversation on ebay, W201 wheels fit R107s- is he correct? (read exchange from the bottom up)

 

They might bolt on and not interfere since they are so narrow, but no, they are not the correct size for a 107.

Here's a link showing the correct sizes for the different models.

Alloy Wheels Direct Ltd | Fitting Chart Index

 

Just saw these... and I find it the most appealing so far.
Imitating 16" Baroque's with just about acceptable amount of chrome and at only desirable place (outer ring)

I guess it opens up unlimited possibilities with ideas.




Mercedes benz ATS Barock orginally 6x14 but now 7,25x16 with BBS RS lips.

http://www.nopokemonshit.com/t1437-wheelwhore

 

I've been talking about doing something like this (a 16" Bundt) for years. Every kept on telling me that it would run into the thousands to get it made.

 

I don't think I ever made sure I completed the answer to the question very well, at least not within this thread (which is currently in the EGv107). I do see that Roncallo seems to have answered my question very well at: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c...forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1464393-how-much-bigger-tire-can-we.html#post3657514 (He's answered the Q well in other threads too.)

REAR: 225/55-16 tires on 16X8 " 34ET wheels (fit perfectly with no rubbing apparently)

FRONT: 225/50-16 on a 16x8" ET11 with a rolled fender. Roncallo apparently ran 225/55-16 tires on 16X8 ET14 and got some inside "kissing".
Here's another good Roncallo post with pics: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c...ms/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1297789-largest-tire-wheel-size-560sl-3.html#post4256241

The above tire sizes and wheel sizes can be converted to actual measurements using: Wheel / tire size calculator / comparer - RIMSnTIRES.com In fact, the comparison screen is very handy. You could drop in the sizes above, comparing side-by-side with what you are considering.

This post does not address the wheel's interior dimension which are apparently a serious item to consider on the later years with the larger calipers. However, it seems that the calipers are not an issue on the early years, especially the really early years that run 14" wheels. So I'm going to assume nearly any wheel will fit the "early years".

 

I don't think I ever made sure I completed the answer to the question very well, at least not within this thread (which is currently in the EGv107). I do see that Roncallo seems to have answered my question very well at: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c...forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1464393-how-much-bigger-tire-can-we.html#post3657514 (He's answered the Q well in other threads too.)

REAR: 225/55-16 tires on 16X8 " 34ET wheels (fit perfectly with no rubbing apparently)

FRONT: 225/50-16 on a 16x8" ET11 with a rolled fender. Roncallo apparently ran 225/55-16 tires on 16X8 ET14 and got some inside "kissing".
Here's another good Roncallo post with pics: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c...ms/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1297789-largest-tire-wheel-size-560sl-3.html#post4256241

The above tire sizes and wheel sizes can be converted to actual measurements using: Wheel / tire size calculator / comparer - RIMSnTIRES.com In fact, the comparison screen is very handy. You could drop in the sizes above, comparing side-by-side with what you are considering.

This post does not address the wheel's interior dimension which are apparently a serious item to consider on the later years with the larger calipers. However, it seems that the calipers are not an issue on the early years, especially the really early years that run 14" wheels. So I'm going to assume nearly any wheel will fit the "early years".

IMO, upgrading wheels from original 6.5"(or 7") to 8" width is not just a matter or claerance and fitting them into the car.
If you go higher ET from original ET24 you're effectively narrowing the track.
Probably not important for 70% of the driving styles and for 100% of garage queens.

I've been talking about doing something like this (a 16" Bundt) for years. Every kept on telling me that it would run into the thousands to get it made.

A good machining shop with adequate milling machine and donor outer rim wheels do not sound as that much expensive. Some mfgr may be able to sell outer rims as spare parts.

 

How about rears wider than 8"?

Oh. Now I just realized that I don't know what wheel+tire combination wider than 8" might fit the rears. I think I read that a 16x7.5 front and 16x8.5 rear would be the optimal staggered set. I don't know if there's a lot of information out there on the wider rears and the tire sizes that work best on them.

Anyone have good info on wider rear tires? 8.5? 9?

 

Oh. Now I just realized that I don't know what wheel+tire combination wider than 8" might fit the rears. I think I read that a 16x7.5 front and 16x8.5 rear would be the optimal staggered set. I don't know if there's a lot of information out there on the wider rears and the tire sizes that work best on them.

Anyone have good info on wider rear tires? 8.5? 9?

Seems like I recall djenka running a set of staggered wheels, LO's if I recall correctly. Give him a shout.

Edit... Is was JQ. I see ressurrections of his posts are in other threads today...

 

Here's a picture of some 18x9's in the rear. (18x9 up front not visible). No mention of tire size though.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c...rums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1366087-how-much-wheel-can-you-really.html#post2788790

 

.





This guy hasn't been back in a while.

 

Well, I think this may be the biggest I've seen without modification: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c...ums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1186837-post-picture-your-sl-thread-73.html#post4001743

Quoting member JoeB 2/22/2010:
-------------------------------------
top: E63 AMG rims (18x8.5 front, 18x9.5 rear) ET35 Fit perfectly without clearance issues.
below: AMG OZ Racing styling II (17x8.5 front ET18 17x10 rear ET17) also fit without modification. The added bonus is the 17's fill the wheelarch completely and allow a 275 tyre. the ET35 offset on the E63 rims run an r-Spec yokohama AD08 intermediate tyre in 265/35. It tucks in perfectly into the wheelarch and no rubbing anywhere.
-------------------------------------
So not all the info is there for the tires. Maybe he doesn't drive as hard as Roncallo and certainly doesn't have the v12 engine load either.

 

BORE SIZE - HUB CENTRIC SIZING

From everything I read, it looks like all Mercedes use a 66.56 mm Bore size for their hubcentric fit. (Audi - 57.1, so be careful if you are looking at Audi 5x112 wheels. I assume VW is probably the same, but who knows.)

Thanks for the tip Ears!

 

I wonder if they could weld the Baroque wheel on the inside instead of bolting it. Would look better, IMO.

 

I have a feeling that welding would be a not so much better but by far more expensive and least economical solution.

 

The point of multi piece wheels is the parts can be forged seperately allowing for light weight construction which is also very strong. The TIG weld the inner bundt to the outer lip would require a very good welder and the rim would also have to be balanced afterwards. Using the separate parts and bolting them together gives you the best of both world, lightweight, strong and easy to assemble. It also means if the lip is ever damaged it can be replaced with out having to replace the centers.

 

If 16x8 ET34's fit perfectly at the back as you said, isn't that growing in (narrowing the track)?

Refering to this:
"REAR: 225/55-16 tires on 16X8 " 34ET wheels (fit perfectly with no rubbing apparently)
FRONT: 225/50-16 on a 16x8" ET11 with a rolled fender."

 

Hmm... I would doubt it. ET / Offset is the distance from the lug plate to the centerline of the wheel. If they were standard offset of 23mm (on the 6.5" stock), then with a 8" wheel, you'd be adding 1.5 inches in total, or 0.75" to each side, which is 19mm wider (on both inside and outside). So if you slide those same wheels inside 11 more mm you end of with effective ET34. So the track would actually be increased by 8mm. The wheels would add 30mm (19+11) to the inside.

I don't know if the information from the other member was posted correctly. That sounds like a long way to move to the inside, and only 8mm on the outside. Maybe spacers were used or the info was not posted correctly. I don't know.

 

If track is a measured distance between outer edges of the tyre, then you're right.

I have a feeling that track is the distance between the centres of the wheels and going with higher positive ET would mean, effectively, narrowing the track for the given ET difference, irrespective of the wheel width.

Now that I said it, it makes sense why ET11's are staggered for W107.
My prevous perception was that staggering was when wheel rims protrude the hub plate irrespective of the ET