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Oil Change Thread

59K views 150 replies 48 participants last post by  Jyuma 
#1 ·
I'm in a good mood, I had a good day at work, I'm feeling good health wise, my kids are happy, Nobette is happier, the sun is shing and I own an SL.



Despite all that, I'm doing an oil thread.

The SL was over due for new oil, so I had some time today.
 

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#2 ·
Pics are better than words.
 

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#9 ·
You just grab the retaining spring at the bottom of the canister and pull it out to get at the last crush washer at the bottom of the canister.

Next oil change I am going to use a WIX filter, which is the best quality filter I've seen. It has an all metal housing. The only thing is it didn't come with crush washers.
 
#12 ·
Next oil change I am going to use a WIX filter, which is the best quality filter I've seen. It has an all metal housing. The only thing is it didn't come with crush washers.
Which makes it second best.
 
#20 ·
I have the wix filter, too. four of them to be exact (got a great deal if I bought 5) then figured out they didn't have the large pan bolt washer. PITA, had to drive to the stealership (30mi one way)to get that bugger.
 
#23 ·
Not these. This is a brass (or copper, idk) casing around a packing material. Looks like this once it's been used, and there's a reason why MB includes them with the filters...
 
#24 ·
What I've seen is some are solid copper, like a thick washer, the other type is a crush washer, usually has a fiber inner core with a metal outer coating, one time use only, I'll take pics when I get home tonight, I have both type in the spares box.
 
#25 ·
I think the large ones are hollow so probably shouldn't be reused, but the smaller copper one for the pan plug is reusable if you anneal the metal. It is always the stupid part you end up needing.
 
#27 ·
Obviously the small copper one is for the M110, and the large is for the V8's, now the reuseable washer is heavier than the other and has straight sides, while the throw away is oval shape. I think the solid copper gasket was original, and the other is aftermarket. I have attached pics, hope they are clear enough. Also if you intend on annealing your washer gasket, you need to get them red hot, and then drop into a container of water, they will become bright copper in apearance. Becarefull, the difference between red hot and melted isn't that far apart, not real close but if it looks red, rinse it. The worst that can happen is you need to do it again, and have something that resembles the original.:D

Ok now how am I doing, keeping within the rules, I am new here you know..:surrender:
 

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#35 ·
Hi all,

I just picked up a 1988 300SL in Hong Kong and want to give it an oil change.

Apologies for the silly question, but is the following the sump plug?



I'm experienced with oil changes, but just want to be sure this is the drain.

Thanks all!
 
#38 · (Edited)
Okay, today I decided to change my oil and filter on my 1980 SL for the very first time on this car. Should be a simple task. Seems easy but again I ran into a problem trying to remove the inner spring. I've read all the threads here and I see others had the same problem. I had to gently tap the long bolt downward to remove the spring as it just can't be pulled out. Now I wonder what the hole at the tip of the long bolt is made for, uh-mm. I believe the last person who installed the filter had it wrong as the spring appears to had been placed upside down and now when Im replacing it I need to know if it's correct. I notice "nobby's" pictures, but they do not show how, when ressemble, which side of the inner tapered spring goes in first, even the diagram I notice in another thread that "rowdie" provided, the spring in the diagram does not show a tapered spring, so which way does it go?. In the pictures below I've taken the way I think by looking at the diagram that "rowdie" (thank you) provided is the correct way. Here's what I assume is the right way the filter assembly goes, Large bolt held in hand, copper (seal ring), oil filter canister, spring with large diameter first, flat metal washer, oil filter cartridge, placed large O-ring on the end of the oil canister, then mount to engine. One side of the hole in the Bosch filter is larger than the other, the smaller hole in first, Am I correct ????....
Thanks,
carltwo
 

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#42 · (Edited)
8) Aluminum washer or the larger diameter copper crush washer on the oil pan plug (depends on what YOUR engine takes)

nobby,
Thanks for all your concern and info. Like shown in the Diagram, item "6" states "spring retainer" as I think this means the aluminum washer enclosed in the Oil filter kit, because the smaller end of the spring would actually, in time, cut into the Oil Filter Cartridge's rubber if the Aluminum washer wasn't there or in place. I'm not doubting anyone, I'm just striving to be correct. I altered the diagram to show, what I think, the tapered spring's correct way to install. Remember when I first disassemble the Oil Filter Housing the spring was upside down, now I believe it's correct. Please any comments.......
carltwo
 

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#43 ·
Sorry, I modified my post. I'm tired and I have a horrible memory.
The narrow end of the spring goes into the housing and onto the bolt first. The wide end should already have the spring retainer (item 6) NOT included with the kit. It is re-useable.
The aluminum washer goes onto the housing bolt head.
The copper washer OR the large diameter copper crush washer goes on the oil pan plug.
 

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